The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: s_busby_uk on April 08, 2014, 06:37:12 am
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Woodworking noob here!!
I went ahead and had a cabinet cut at a CNC place with a curved control panel without really thinking about the fact I would have to bend some wood to achieve the sidepanelling. Does anyone have any tips for how to do this and what wood to use (the rest of the cabinet is MDF for what it's worth).
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Pics and/or diagrams showing the radius of the curves might help here. :dunno
A 12mm radius curve and a 120mm radius curve call for very different approaches.
Also, many people let the curved part hang out like a diving board.
Scott
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Yeah without seeing what you're talking about it's hard to say.
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Fair enough, see attached!
The dimensions of the piece are about 684mm x 320mm (at the longest part of the curve - 223mm at the shortest part of the curve (the sides)).
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If you have a tablesaw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYfRyt6OQkY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYfRyt6OQkY)
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If you don't, Google bendy mdf.
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If you have a tablesaw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYfRyt6OQkY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYfRyt6OQkY)
And if you only have a circular saw :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=GbEjGdu5dfw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=GbEjGdu5dfw)
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A few layers of hardboard it the back and sides are good enough structurally
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If you don't, Google bendy mdf.
This stuff looks viable
http://www.wickes.co.uk/MDF-Flexi-Board-6x607x1220mm/p/190139 (http://www.wickes.co.uk/MDF-Flexi-Board-6x607x1220mm/p/190139)
Anyone know how structurally sound this stuff is though? And is it easy enough to cut length-ways to get the right height?
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You can do the front in a 1/4" piece of hardboard. Just soak it in hot water then ratchet strap it around a bucket and let it dry. Its a kinda fun way to do things.
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Once bent, what's the best way of attaching the wood to the sides of the control panel? Is this the best method?
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=92156.0;attach=188202;image (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=92156.0;attach=188202;image)
(Credit: markc74s amazing Terminus cabinet)
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If you can hinge it in the back like the picture you posted you will save yourself a lot of headache. I tried hinging mine in the front and ran into way too much trouble.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,116519.msg1292849.html#msg1292849 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,116519.msg1292849.html#msg1292849)
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I like the hinges you used - what are they?
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I like the hinges you used - what are they?
They are called box hinges. I picked them up here.
http://www.hardwaresource.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4070 (http://www.hardwaresource.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4070)
It is a real nice hinge but did not end up working for me.
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No reason they shouldn't work at the back of the CP tho right?
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No reason they shouldn't work at the back of the CP tho right?
Just make sure the joysticks don't break the bezel/monitor when you open the CP that way. :angry:
Scott
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Ha, good point!
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No reason they shouldn't work at the back of the CP tho right?
Probably not. Take a look at the pictures here -
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,116519.msg1295494.html#msg1295494 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,116519.msg1295494.html#msg1295494)
I had to notch the box so that the hinge would be flush with the front otherwise the lid would not clear.