Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Arcade Collecting => Pinball => Topic started by: spoot on February 02, 2014, 07:32:11 pm
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Picked up a World Cup 1978 last weekend. Woot. Now I gotta get the damn thing working. :D
This glass was totally skanky and stunk to high-heaven.
(http://www.spootsworld.com/DCP_1024.JPG)
Cabinet has some scuffs but overall decent shape.
(http://www.spootsworld.com/DCP_1026.JPG)
Backglass has some pretty bad peeling. :(
(http://www.spootsworld.com/DCP_1027.JPG)
At least this is sumwhat clean.
(http://www.spootsworld.com/DCP_1028.JPG)
At least no fires in here. Some bad burned stuff to swap out though such as resistors and diodes.
(http://www.spootsworld.com/DCP_1029.JPG)
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That's actually pretty nice. When you get a cabinet that still has deep reds you're in good shape.
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backglass is decent as well for the time period even with a few flakes. I would consider trying that triple thick clear coat on that one. If that game was made 10 minutes earlier it would be electromechanical.
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Naw, 20 minutes earlier would have been EM. This one has the electronic sound board and not the chimes. :laugh:
I'll have to look into the triple coat. For age it's not that bad......just around the 2-3rd player score it's horrible.
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Curse you Scanbe........CURSE YOU! :angry:
Guess what I'll be replacing this weekend.
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see if you can borrow a Hakko 808. Will be a lot more fun.
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Next pinball purchase (if there ever is one) will involve getting a desoldering iron. So sick of the soldapult it's not even funny.
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I've gotten pretty good with the soldapult. Of course, I've got three because radio shack will sell you a new one but doesn't carry replacement tips anymore. Hard to get a chip out intact that way though. Usually end up cutting the legs and sacrificing the the chip to save the board.
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Even more of a pain in the ass to desolder under a playfield with a soldapult. Yeah, you have much less worry about heat, but you have a ton more with drops going to random places.
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Heh, well, no way would I be doing this without a desoldering station. So, picked up a cheapie Aoyue one which is doing ok I guess. Not as portable as the one you mention though.
So far:
Recapped power supply
Display 91v zener diode mod to extend life
Replaced all fuse holders on power supply
Diodes D7 and D8 replaced with 6A4 as they looked toasty
Removed and remote install of battery pack w/diode as this was pretty toasted. Thankfully didn't see any other acid damage on board.
Replaced R1/R4
All voltages out of power supply are now within good range...horray!
Replaced 40-pin female mpu/driver board connector cuz it was skanky
Replaced the 27ohm 3w resistors on driver board with 27ohm 5w as the old ones looked like they were on fire
Replaced dead solenoid rectifier on backbox
To do:
One of the 8 TIP42 on the driver board has black spot on both sides of board....blown?
Fuse the two backbox bridge rectifiers
Finish resocket of all chips with new SIP
Get the damn thing to boot......double LED (no blink)
Rebuild kit for flippers
new flipper solenoids
rebulb with #47's
touch up playfield
Play!
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How much would something like this cost?!
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I got lucky and got the machine for free. But then I put a few hundred into repairs.
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I got lucky and got the machine for free. But then I put a few hundred into repairs.
And did you repair the machine by yourself?
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Yeppers.
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Thats awesome, I am still learning the technical side of these machines!