The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: SpatzST on January 21, 2014, 11:24:27 pm
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Hi guys, I am new to woodworking and arcade building, but have been a gamer my whole life so I think its time to build one!
This is what I came up with in google sketchpad
(http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd299/SpatzST/cab2_zpsb88ce0ae.jpg) (http://s223.photobucket.com/user/SpatzST/media/cab2_zpsb88ce0ae.jpg.html)
(http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd299/SpatzST/cab1_zps66cd4b06.jpg) (http://s223.photobucket.com/user/SpatzST/media/cab1_zps66cd4b06.jpg.html)
Any input would be appreciated in both arcade design and building tips. Any things I should consider, etc..
thanks
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personally im all for showcase cabs. wanting to build one my self. not sure on the distance between your panel and the tv but it looks a but far. I think 3ft is the average distance. I would also suggest dropping the tv style you have there and get either a mammoth 32" crt like I have or go with LCD. only problem with crt is a 32" is gonna weight 175lbs or so. now if you have the knowledge to decase that tv and mount it in the cab it self that would be a good route to go. you could build a tv/monitor box section around that tv.
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You chose wisely by not angling the P3/P4 joysticks.
Many people find that a keyboard drawer like that is a waste of effort since you'll hardly ever need the keyboard once you get the cab configured.
Several options to consider:
1.) Tuck a keyboard (USB or bluetooth) behind a coin door.
2.) Put a Neutrik USB feedthru on the back of the control panel box for a keyboard. (Bonus: also allows you to plug in specialized controllers like an analog flight stick for Afterburner)
Scott
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personally im all for showcase cabs. wanting to build one my self. not sure on the distance between your panel and the tv but it looks a but far. I think 3ft is the average distance. I would also suggest dropping the tv style you have there and get either a mammoth 32" crt like I have or go with LCD. only problem with crt is a 32" is gonna weight 175lbs or so. now if you have the knowledge to decase that tv and mount it in the cab it self that would be a good route to go. you could build a tv/monitor box section around that tv.
Yeah I wasn't sure how far to make it tbh. I was just downstairs and kind of imagining what it would look like. I only chose that TV because I already have it in my basement and it gets no use. The connecting piece in that model, according to sketchup, is about 3.4ft. the plan, ultimately, would be to build a case around the current housing of this TV, but I am more focused on the controls and just being able to play rather than the looks at this point. I am a novice woodworker and electrician so :)
You chose wisely by not angling the P3/P4 joysticks.
Many people find that a keyboard drawer like that is a waste of effort since you'll hardly ever need the keyboard once you get the cab configured.
Several options to consider:
1.) Tuck a keyboard (USB or bluetooth) behind a coin door.
2.) Put a Neutrik USB feedthru on the back of the control panel box for a keyboard. (Bonus: also allows you to plug in specialized controllers like an analog flight stick for Afterburner)
Scott
thanks scott, I might ditch the drawer then, less work :)
By "not angling" the joysticks you mean keeping them relatively horizontal, correct? Not putting the control on the top left/right of the control panel?
here is a new pic I adjusted slightly. Can anyone give me input on how far apart I should make the buttons from the other buttons and joysticks? and player to player?
I moved the left joystick down a little bit and added Player/Coin buttons for each player plus a Pause/Exit button as suggested by some other members.
Here is a more accurate measurement of the dimensions (roughly..)
(http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd299/SpatzST/dimensions1_zps1824cbe0.jpg) (http://s223.photobucket.com/user/SpatzST/media/dimensions1_zps1824cbe0.jpg.html)
thanks for reading
(http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd299/SpatzST/controls_zpsa1012e39.jpg) (http://s223.photobucket.com/user/SpatzST/media/controls_zpsa1012e39.jpg.html)
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By "not angling" the joysticks you mean keeping them relatively horizontal, correct? Not putting the control on the top left/right of the control panel?
As explained in the new FAQ (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks_2), orient the joysicks so the mounting plate is parallel with the monitor like P1-P3, not angled like P4.
(http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/d/da/StraightAndAngledSticks.jpg/480px-StraightAndAngledSticks.jpg)
here is a new pic I adjusted slightly. Can anyone give me input on how far apart I should make the buttons from the other buttons and joysticks? and player to player?
Check out the printable layouts at Slagcoin (http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html) for P1/P2.
I moved the left joystick down a little bit and added Player/Coin buttons for each player plus a Pause/Exit button as suggested by some other members.
(http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd299/SpatzST/controls_zpsa1012e39.jpg) (http://s223.photobucket.com/user/SpatzST/media/controls_zpsa1012e39.jpg.html)
Spread those Coin and Start buttons out so the players can reach them more easily and not accidently hit Exit and Pause.
Once you get your layout locked in, adjust the artwork to avoid "Joynicorns (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129794.msg1327826.html#msg1327826)" and other possible unfortunate control/art intersections like P2 joystick on the Captain America CP (http://www.mamedb.com/image/control_panel/captaven) -- some of those cabs accidently had the art shifted an inch to the left. ::)
Scott
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Thanks so much! Also the art was just temporary.. though I like it 😊
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It's a bit boxy for my tastes. Are you skilled enough to maybe round off the edges? :laugh:
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My opinion, you don't need a keyboard drawer. Keyboard is only for admin and not needed most times. I would also make the pedestal a stand alone item with an LCD mounted to a wall, or have an LCD on a stand where the whole shebang and can sandwiched together for storage. Huge monstrosities might have been acceptable in a huge arcade, but take up a lot of space in the home. I'm sure some clever thinking can make a "pedestal" design without the bulk.
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It's a bit boxy for my tastes. Are you skilled enough to maybe round off the edges? :laugh:
Nope! 😃My opinion, you don't need a keyboard drawer. Keyboard is only for admin and not needed most times. I would also make the pedestal a stand alone item with an LCD mounted to a wall, or have an LCD on a stand where the whole shebang and can sandwiched together for storage. Huge monstrosities might have been acceptable in a huge arcade, but take up a lot of space in the home. I'm sure some clever thinking can make a "pedestal" design without the bulk.
Yep someone else told me the same thing. I think Il be ditching the keyboard drawer and focusing more of the building on the control panel rather than the monster cab.
Thanks for the input
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The design is fine, and would work as a showcase cab. The big thing distance wise is do some research on distance for viewing 32" and above as articulated by the industry. It's typically father than you think and farther than most cabs are built at. So distance wise use what the industry says for the size of TV you are using and then minus 6-12 inches.
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So I have been reworking out my design, made all the lengths normal sizes, not like in 64th of an inch.[
I do have another question though, how deep should the c/p be? Right now I have it as 6in deep but I think it could probably be shorter?
Also, I have it set at 5ft wide, for 4 people. In anyone experience, is this too big/small? I measured out 5ft today and I started thinking its too big, but I don't have anyone to stand next to me lol. I just keep fearing people will crowd elbows but then I think back to other real arcade machines and how much smaller they are.. granted they may only have two buttons for each player...
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Five feet wide makes me think of this:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=94966.0;attach=128843;image)
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So.. is that too big? lol
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Since you're running a pedestal, it's not too bad. How wide it the TV you're using?
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Since you're running a pedestal, it's not too bad. How wide it the TV you're using?
Decided on a 32in LCD for now.
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as i understand it most showcase cabs used either a 33" or 36" monitor altho i think 33" was standard. so you could use the plans for a showcase cab and get the viewing distance from that. one thing i would note is that the height of the tv you want the top of the screen to be near eye level with you since it is your system and you will use it the most. I agree with the others a keyboard tray is more work than needed and you can like it has been said put one in the space below the tv or even inside the control panel. I personally like the usb ports below the CP idea as like you can always plug in diff controls.
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I would personally ditch the centre section, and either run a cable mat or even some nicely painted abs/pcv plumbing pipe to hide your wires. Then you will be able to bring the pedestal in closer when not in use to save space. I think it's pretty wide, but those are my only quibbles. Looks great!