The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Zzap on October 24, 2013, 12:18:39 am
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Hi all, I've finally kicked off my project to build a new cab to replace my aging behemoth of a 4 player showcase-like cabinet. Below is a pic of what I'm replacing, the aesthetics and size won't really be missed...
So onto the new plan. When researching plans for a slim machine based on an lcd monitor, I was blown away by the shape of the Terminus built by markc74, The way the sides made it look extra thin (already only 55cm) and the sleek curves I knew I'd be onto a winner (as long as I can cut that big sweeping curve!). http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,92156.msg1018061.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,92156.msg1018061.html)
The plan is to use a 27" monitor, along with a smaller 7" monitor to view control information.
For the actual theme I have been toying with the idea of something like "Fix it Felix", although the actual cabinet shape is a radical deviation from the original. I was thinking maybe something rather generic and in the same Fix it Felix blue for the sides and control panel (maybe with just "arcade" on the side or similar), and a Fix it Felix marquee. This would be similar to other generic cabs we were used to seeing back in the day, themed for the specific game only in the marquee. The Fix it Felix side art just doesn't seem to fit nicely onto the thin sides (would be scaled quite small) so I'm thinking blue background with some white text in a retro font and some retro lines might do the trick.
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Current progress includes cutting up a sawboard to help me cut straight lines (my wordworking skills would still be classified as amatuer for sure).
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,43568.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,43568.0.html)
While cutting the sawboard things were looking pretty good. I cut the first strip with the factory edge, then attached it to the larger strip to make the board. Unfortunately it was after cutting into the second board to get the nice straight edge I realised that the edge had a bow in it. :censored: Either the factory edge wasn't straight, or it had bowed as I glued and screwed it down. After prying the piece off and resting it on the ground I realised I'd have to bend the centre in around 5mm to get it square. so I glued it back down and reattached each end to the base plate, used clamps to pull the center out 5mm, then added the rest of the screws in.
To recover from the bow in, I found a strip of pine wood the exact thickness of the mdf (18mm), and 11mm wide. This would work perfectly, so I glued and clamped it onto bowed cut edge and waited til it dried. After drying I noticed a few small gaps between the mdf and the pine, so I went the extra step of using some epoxy resin to fill them in and make sure that pine edge wasn't going to rip itself off.
Finally another 24 hours later, I ran the circular saw over that edge and finally had a nice straight sawboard!
This has now cut up around 1/3 of the pieces I need for the build, all nice and straight (although the circular saw appears to be cutting on a slight angle, so not quite perpendicular on the vertical cut, maybe 5 degrees out which I can cope with).
Note the second photo shows the board from around halfway where the pine is at its thickest, tapering away to nothing at the end.
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Here's an idea of what I was thinking for the sideart, too simple?
I'm planning on the use of this blue and white (white t-molding) themed through the cabinet
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That's my favorite color blue:
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/GT_restoration/REAR_QUARTER.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/GT_restoration/REAR_QUARTER.jpg.html)
Subscribed!
AJ
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Small progress, got 3 large sheets of mdf cut down into panels based on the terminus 3d model. No intricate cuts yet, but will start constructing the base soon.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299086;image)
To work out the best way to cut the panels out of the larger sheets, I used some software called Sheet Layout. I was originally trying to use the drawing tool Inkscape to do it manually and thought there must be an easier way! The free version worked ok as I could add all the parts I wanted to cut out, then toggle them on and off to insert them into the sheets. It seemed to optimise the first sheet well, then I could just disable every part that was shown on that sheet to create sheet 2 etc. Of course paying the $35 for the hobby version would have been a little simpler :)
http://www.sheetlayout.com/ (http://www.sheetlayout.com/)
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If I were you, I'd come up with a different theme.
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Ok, playing with the graphics some more, I can see Fix it Felix really isn't going to work, so I'm heading down this more generic path now, working in the white and sky blue:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299158;image)
Really rough control panel, note the buttons are pulled from my previous machine, so the colours are limited:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299160;image)
Render - note I've dropped the idea of sideart since the cabinet sides won't really be too visible in my games room, and I think the solid blue will be fine
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299162;image)
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Not trying to threadcrap here, but are you REALLY SURE you want the marquee of your cab to read . . . "arcade"? :dizzy:
Scott
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Not trying to threadcrap here, but are you REALLY SURE you want the marquee of your cab to read . . . "arcade"? :dizzy:
Scott
You wanna fight about it?
*gets idea*
Ah, the SPARCADE!
:D
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I like the design and colors... I even thought about doing a Terminus myself.
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I love Terminus.
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Not trying to threadcrap here, but are you REALLY SURE you want the marquee of your cab to read . . . "arcade"? :dizzy:
Fair comment. Sure the word "arcade" is quite generic, but so is the theme, and revolves much more around the colours and white lines than the name itself. Generic marquees like this, along with "New Game" etc were used pretty extensively in Australia, so I don't feel it detracts at all. I will consider other names, but "arcade" is working ok for me at the moment...
I love Terminus.
Thanks jammin0, your Ninja Monkeys version of the Terminus also inspired me. Can you provide any tips on cutting the sides?
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I love the colors, but don't recycle them. Sell them on the forum and buy white buttons. Maybe a black background with white text on the marquee to break things up a bit?
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Thanks jammin0, your Ninja Monkeys version of the Terminus also inspired me. Can you provide any tips on cutting the sides?
I just free handed my curve with a jigsaw but I thought afterwards that a router could have done better. Here's a crappy drawing to illustrate. Used my ipad, nice eh? The red is a router and it is tied down to a piece of scrap at the center point with a nail and a piece of 1x6. You get the idea.
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Very nice drawing :) That does sound the best way to do it, but I'm a bit of a novice with my router. It may take some practice to ensure it's all attached and getting the right size cutout.
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I like simple so just putting arcade on the Marquee is cool. I think the side art you had though made it look a lot better. I would tie the white lines you had on the side in with the marquee and CP as well though. I think the CP is too plain as is.
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Got a bunch of measurements of the sides taken off the Sketchup model of the terminus, helped me a lot to get the shape drawn out (this is probably the most complex shape I've ever cut out of wood!). I've attached a cut down version of the sketchup model with just the side and measurements, as well as a pdf version that might hopefully help someone else.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299308;image)
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I did manage to get one of the sides cut today, using my router, jigsaw and sander.
Looking through the box my router came with, I discovered it had parallel guide arms, and also came with a "trammel pin" for using one of the guide arms to act as a radius. Working out I could just fit the centre of the radius cut onto the board, I drilled a hole, dropped the pin in, and attached the router. I also wanted to stop the router before the control panel line, so I hammered a few small nails in to act as a stop when the router base hit them.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299319;image)
Using the technique of slowly lowering the router on multiple passes, I moved back and forth. Unfortunately there were a couple of times early on where the pin holding the arm in place loosened and the router bit into the panel I wanted to keep! (see below picture). I now need to work out if I can fill these with something like bondo, or to just make two more panels using this one as a template (bottom 2/3 of the cut went smoothly). The rest of the cuts went ok with the jigsaw, and all sanded down nice and smooth.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299315;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299317;image)
Newbie things learnt today:
- Frequently check everything attached to your router is tightly done up
- A piece of hose makes a pretty good curve drawing guide
- Random orbital sander makes light work of corner radii, just make sure you've got it perpendicular, drawing radius on both sides helps
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Thanks for the pics and tips! :)
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Got the second side cut out using a template router bit. Looks fantastic, I'm very pleased with the result. I also got the issues with the original side filled with filler which seems to have worked really well.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299418;image)
Newbie tips learnt today:
- using double sided tape does work great to join two pieces together when template routing as recommended on many router forums / videos. I used 5 pieces all up for the full side.
Made a few adjustments to the control panel art, I am leaning towards white buttons as has been suggested. Also added arrows with gradients to blend in the black joysticks / dust covers. Not 100% sure how I'll be mounting my trackball, so will either be the black mounting plate on top, or I'm just investigating the Groovy Game Gear high trackball mount (though I'm not sure if that will work with my Happ 3" ball or not).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299420;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299422;image)
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Looks like it's coming right along.
Have you sorted out your emulators/frontend software yet?
Depending on your software choices and configuration, you may want/need different admin buttons.
This post (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130206.msg1332267.html#msg1332267), this one (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,133856.msg1379135.html#msg1379135), and this one (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,133394.msg1373449.html#msg1373449) have some related thoughts on the design process. YMMV.
Scott
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Thanks for those links, a few ideas in there. I'm thinking of using the Play button as a Pause too (my last panel had an explicit pause button, but I don't think it's necessary). Also going 100% coin based, I really like the experience of dropping coins in, and having a button to coin up previously really seemed to cheapen the experience (heh, literally too). Thinking of hiding other admin buttons inside the coin door for Tab, Mouse Left, Mouse Right.
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Thinking of hiding other admin buttons inside the coin door for Tab, Mouse Left, Mouse Right.
. . . or tuck a wireless keyboard in there. :cheers:
Scott
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Wow, really nice looking sides there. Coming along nicely. Can't wait to see it standing.
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Can't wait to see it standing.
Me either!
Got the coin door cut today, and the wood for the centre right across the width at the bottom (I made it a single piece for added strength across there, but required a few extra cuts...). Also bought all the paint I need and did a test paint of a piece. The black has turned out perfect which was a slight surprise since it was on sale at the hardware store in the "mistint" section, marked down from $66 to $10!
Also got a bunch of furring strips cut for the framing, so should be able to get the base constructed tomorrow.
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Coming along nicely, Terminus is a really nice-looking modern design.
One tip: if you are planning on having T-molding on your cabinet, now is the time to cut the slots.
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Thanks Yvan256, I knew it would need to be around this stage, but wasn't sure if it would be easier with the sides attached or not
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Do it now. That way if you mess up (the router walks, etc), you can just cut/route another side, instead of taking a cab apart.
Looks good!
AJ
Thanks Yvan256, I knew it would need to be around this stage, but wasn't sure if it would be easier with the sides attached or not
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Thanks Yvan256, I knew it would need to be around this stage, but wasn't sure if it would be easier with the sides attached or not
And don't forget to test your T-slot routing skills on a spare panel first, using a leftover part from the same sheet material to center the slot. Have a small sample of T-molding on hand to make sure it's really centered.
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I had my doubts about that shade of blue, until I saw the drawing. Sweet!
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Got the second side cut out using a template router bit. Looks fantastic, I'm very pleased with the result. I also got the issues with the original side filled with filler which seems to have worked really well.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299418;image)
QUESTION:
Did you cut out the second panel with a jigsaw first and then flush trim it with the template router bit?
Or did you simply lay the first panel on top of your uncut piece of mdf and cut it directly with the template router bit?
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He says he used a template router bit which I'm assuming is the same as a flush trim bit. To me thats a necessity to have.
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He says he used a template router bit which I'm assuming is the same as a flush trim bit. To me thats a necessity to have.
Right ... Just looking for clarification, in case he did his a different, more efficient way.
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He says he used a template router bit which I'm assuming is the same as a flush trim bit. To me thats a necessity to have.
Right ... Just looking for clarification, in case he did his a different, more efficient way.
I've done it both ways that you're referring to and it is a lot easier if you do a rough cut first and then trim it up. Router bits are expensive too so you'll get a lot more life out of your bit and it won't dull so quickly if you aren't cutting all the way through the wood. Also, a lot less force required to work your way around the template piece which for me means I'm a lot less likely to screw it up if I take the time to do a rough cut first.
I am by no means an expert though. :)
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Yeah, I placed the first side onto the larger sheet and clamped it down, then traced around the outside. I then removed the clamps and the good side and cut the sheet out with a jigsaw, around 3-5mm away from the line I drew. I then took double sided tape and stuck the good side onto the roughly cut side and used the template router bit to cut that out. Cutting first with a jigsaw definitely saved a lot of effort with the router and sawdust too I'm sure. Seems like a little extra work, but much easier really.
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Yeah, I placed the first side onto the larger sheet and clamped it down, then traced around the outside. I then removed the clamps and the good side and cut the sheet out with a jigsaw, around 3-5mm away from the line I drew. I then took double sided tape and stuck the good side onto the roughly cut side and used the template router bit to cut that out. Cutting first with a jigsaw definitely saved a lot of effort with the router and sawdust too I'm sure. Seems like a little extra work, but much easier really.
Thank You ... That's what I figured, but just wanted to make sure.
:cheers:
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Yeah, I usually rough cut to within 1/4" or so and clean it up with the router. My flush bit is 1/2", so that makes light work of it.
AJ
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Looking real good. I'm liking the blue too.
I think i free handed the curve side panel on mine but used your method to get the curve for the front of the control panel. It's definately a good way to do it. :cheers:
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The design is looking sweet. As for that gouge in the side, look into making some wood putty with your left over dust and some glue (it works great).
I agree with PL1 on the admin buttons: get your software sorted out before you decide on a final button configuration. If you don't, just make sure you have the following: Pause, Exit (both separated if possible to avoid the accidental quitting of a game), and a generic "Admin" button you can configure for whatever you think you need now, so you can easily change its function later without having to make new inserts.
As for the marquee: use arcade if you want, but keep in mind you'll probably grow to hate it in the future (or just ignore it). The marquee is a "marketing" tool used by manufacturers to get people's attention and money. Using a generic marquee defeats the purpose of having one. Trust me: I made a "temporary" generic marquee for my slim build and am already designing a more appropriate replacement. Notice how most of the comments go in this regard:
1. Change it
2. Keep it if you like it
Those are the general responses. No one is raving about it. You are going to spend considerable time and money making this thing, and eventually considerable time enjoying it. The marquee is what most people will focus on (initially), and if it is lackluster, that will translate into viewing your cab as somewhat lackluster. If you don't have graphic design skills, go to the Artwork forum and ask some questions. You'll be glad you did.
If you tell me, "thanks for the advice, but I'm not going to change it" make sure you ask yourself, deep down, why you won't change it. Don't be lazy.
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That's my favorite color blue:
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/GT_restoration/REAR_QUARTER.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/GT_restoration/REAR_QUARTER.jpg.html)
Subscribed!
AJ
Ugh. That picture reminds me of when some :censored: stole my brand new GT Pro Performer that I got from Santa. I rode it to the mall and when I came out, they left their piece of crap bike and tools in its place... I had to ride their :censored: bike all the way home. I think I cried with every push of the pedal...
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Yeah, been there. Had 5 or 6 of them stolen. 3 at different shows and a few from my BASEMENT.
Here's some porn:
Hand painted:
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/DYNO_FOR_BUILD_OFF/DSC01786.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/DYNO_FOR_BUILD_OFF/DSC01786.jpg.html)
Another hand painted. Built the wheels on all of them, too:
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/DYNO_RESTORATION/DSC01702.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/DYNO_RESTORATION/DSC01702.jpg.html)
Original chrome:
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MINI_SCOOT/DSC01711.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/MINI_SCOOT/DSC01711.jpg.html)
And, ME!
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/80S_FREESTYLE_PICS/rt5bmx_lookback_4.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/80S_FREESTYLE_PICS/rt5bmx_lookback_4.jpg.html)
/hijack off
AJ
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Looking real good. I'm liking the blue too.
Much appreciated Mark, you came up with a brilliant design!
As for the marquee: use arcade if you want, but keep in mind you'll probably grow to hate it in the future (or just ignore it).
I feel that the colours and style (narrow white lines with the blue background) fit with the design of the rest of the cabinet, but perhaps it's just the wording that is detracting, if it was something more like this would it stand out more? (named after game central station in Wreck it Ralph)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299792;image)
Nice bikes guys :)
Back on topic, got a bit of progress of the last few days, got the base built, filled and sanded, came up nicely. Where there was slight overhang in the joins I also used the trim bit on the router to cut them flush, worked brilliantly.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299788;image)
Also got the slots cut in the sides for the t-molding today. I was a little apprehensive to get these done since I didn't want to screw up the sides, but they came out great. I did a few of the tricks I'd seen around here including testing pressing the cutting blade into a side of scrap the same width, then flipping the wood over to test it's exactly halfway, as well as a couple of test cuts to check it was even. I feel I may have been half a millimetre or so out in the final cut, but very happy nonetheless.
Only one minor blemish which is visible in the centre of the photo, I was careful to let the router wind down inside the slot on every cut until the last one, on that one I pulled it away just before it stopped and it caught a little. I count myself very lucky it didn't jump further and take out any more. Was a very windy day though, and standing just down wind from the router caused a crapload of mdf dust to fly under my safety glasses and into my eye. All rinsed now and seems ok.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299790;image)
Should be able to mount the top piece onto the base tomorrow and start priming and painting.
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perhaps it's just the wording that is detracting
That's what I was trying to say earlier.
Thanks for expressing it more clearly, A1pharm.
Which do you prefer?
Lowercase - game central (the "g" is the only letter that dips under the line)
Title case - Game Central (identifies it as a proper noun)
All caps - GAME CENTRAL
Scott
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I see your point on the the lowercase g being the only letter below the line...
Here's the modifications with the various capitalisations, the all caps looks far too busy, perhaps the title caps looks ok.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299794;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299796;image)
And thanks for all the input guys, I may be a little slow on the artistic uptake, but I'll get there :)
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Title case looks good.
How would it look using a slightly smaller font size so that the space between the words is the same as the space above/below/right/left of the words?
Scott
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Like so?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299798;image)
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Looks pretty good to me, but I'll gladly defer those with more artistic talent. ;D
Scott
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Think it would be cool if you called it Game Central Station. Kind of a spin off of Grand Central Station in New York. As far as your artwork. I think you need some kind of overlay on top of the blue not sure what though. It would just keep it from being too much blue.
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Think it would be cool if you called it Game Central Station. Kind of a spin off of Grand Central Station in New York.
Heh, that's exactly what I was thinking, from the movie Wreck it Ralph :) Here's a version with that full name, I think it's a bit to much writing?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299865;image)
Also played around with the control panel artwork today and realised that when I follow a proper button layout, the joystick and buttons need a bit more spacing than I had previously, so no the nice rounded rectangles encroach on each other if I keep the planned design. I can join them together like below they lose a lot of the neatness from before...urgh, will require more thought here...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299867;image)
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Think it would be cool if you called it Game Central Station. Kind of a spin off of Grand Central Station in New York. As far as your artwork. I think you need some kind of overlay on top of the blue not sure what though. It would just keep it from being too much blue.
+1
Also, maybe putting an overlay on the CP would be easier on the eyes, too.
This is coming along nicely, I'm glad you ditched the generic "arcade" marquee!
Cheers!
:cheers:
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Can you explain what you mean by overlay for this? You both mentioned it so it must be a good thing, but I don't have any idea what sort of thing to add ??? :dunno
Thanks for the kind words :cheers:
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A little progress over the last couple of days, got the base completed, I thought I'd run some t-molding along the front, it seems like it's only really visible from some angles, but should make it look a little nicer. Got the wheels attached too so easier to move around now :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300020;image)
Also got a box built to enclose the car speakers I'll be using. Also got the speaker panel, rear air intake panel and top fan panel jigsaw cut and tidied up for mounting speakers, fans and flyscreen mesh for the lower intake.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300022;image)
A minor change to the control panel, rather than encircling the separate controls, I think these lines might do the trick? (ignore subtle read silhouettes, they are the underlying template cuts, I just quickly stuck coloured button shapes over the top)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300024;image)
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Yeah, been there. Had 5 or 6 of them stolen. 3 at different shows and a few from my BASEMENT.
Here's some porn:
Hand painted:
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/DYNO_FOR_BUILD_OFF/DSC01786.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/DYNO_FOR_BUILD_OFF/DSC01786.jpg.html)
Another hand painted. Built the wheels on all of them, too:
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/DYNO_RESTORATION/DSC01702.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/DYNO_RESTORATION/DSC01702.jpg.html)
Original chrome:
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MINI_SCOOT/DSC01711.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/MINI_SCOOT/DSC01711.jpg.html)
And, ME!
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/80S_FREESTYLE_PICS/rt5bmx_lookback_4.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/80S_FREESTYLE_PICS/rt5bmx_lookback_4.jpg.html)
/hijack off
AJ
Man those are some nice bikes (and the scooter).
Worst mistake i made was getting rid of my Mongoose Decade Pro (hot pink and chrome).
Alright, I'm done wrecking this thread.
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Got a few things done over the past few days in including the speaker box complete with working speakers and lighting. Got the car speakers installed, needed to add some door rubber seal to get a nice snug fit into the holes I cut, but besides that it all went pretty smoothly.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300523;image)
I hadn't worked with this LED strip lighting before but it worked as expected. I soldered on a standard 4 pin molex connector to make the wiring a bit more modular. When I tested the first length there was a segment of 3 LEDs that were flashing, and 3 others that were dead, so I'm glad I tested before hand. This LED strip was also a "weather proof" one, so I had to peel back the silicone coating and snip it off each end to do the extra wiring. It was also much easier to solder them once they were mounted to their board (I discovered this after trying to move them when they were soldered together).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300525;image)
Also got some work done on the MALA theme for the cab. Found a nice image of Game Central Station from Wreck it Ralph where the colours fit in great with the colour scheme of the cab!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300527;image)
Also got the control panel front curves routed out today, so should be able to build them up shortly, get a decent sense of how the monitors will be mounted in relation and get the sides up.
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Looking good. I'm interested to see how you tackled some of the small details to this cab like the bend on the front. I like the addition of t-molding underneath the CP on that straight part. Not easy to see but if you are down low and looking up it is definitely there. What size monitor are you going with? I was lucky enough to find the 28" Hannspree and it seems like it is the perfect size. They made a lot of them in funny bezel shapes (football, basketball, apple). Not sure what they were thinking but it might help to get one for a little bit cheaper. I think I payed $160 for mine.
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I'm going with a 27" monitor as well as an 8" monitor for showing controls. I looked around for that nice 28" 16:10 monitor, but unfortunately the only one I could find was second hand, and I realised if I have difficulty finding one now, there's no hope in many years if I may need to replace it! I also toyed with the idea of a 32", but decided 27" would be sufficient.
Will be testing out a few ideas for the control panel front curve today, including bending some 3mm and 6mm mdf.
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To make station fit you should use a different font. and you can make it smaller. Quick example.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2822/10980240486_fabb97fe15_z.jpg)
As far as overlay I'll use my CP as an example.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7298/10574863706_177cdfce2d_z.jpg)
The white honeycomb pattern is an overlay on top of the grey. I used it to break up the just plain gray look, I also added a black gradient on the top and bottom.
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Here are some free grid overlays. May look cool....
http://www.premiumpixels.com/freebies/20-seamless-photoshop-grid-patterns/ (http://www.premiumpixels.com/freebies/20-seamless-photoshop-grid-patterns/)
You could also play around with some white half tones. I've never done it but it looke pretty cool...
http://www.backgroundsy.com/tutorials/halftone-pattern-photoshop-tutorial (http://www.backgroundsy.com/tutorials/halftone-pattern-photoshop-tutorial)
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As far as overlay I'll use my CP as an example.
Thanks, I appreciate the ideas. Your control panel is great! I did send my artwork off to the printers yesterday but it's not yet finalised with them, so it may be possible to incorporate one of these ideas.
Got the front box and front curve of the control panel built. I used two panels of 3mm mdf on the front, glued together and to the 4 verticals and tacked in with small nails. Hopefully that should do the trick! Will countersink the nails and fill.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300590;image)
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Got the control panel drilled and trackball hole cut. Corner holes for the mount aren't quite in the right spot so will need to get a file onto them.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300626;image)
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Football!
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/HAPP_3_INCH_TRACKBALL_MOUNT1.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/MAME_CAB/HAPP_3_INCH_TRACKBALL_MOUNT1.jpg.html)
AJ
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Got the control panel drilled and trackball hole cut. Corner holes for the mount aren't quite in the right spot so will need to get a file onto them.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300626;image)
Looking nice that cp.
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Football!
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/HAPP_3_INCH_TRACKBALL_MOUNT1.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/MAME_CAB/HAPP_3_INCH_TRACKBALL_MOUNT1.jpg.html)
AJ
Used that one, and out by around 2mm on the four corner holes, doh! Measuring the bolts, seems they are 6.1 inches on mine, may have been bent out slightly in the last installation?
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Got the furring strips glued and screwed to both sides today, should have something more substantial in a few days!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300714;image)
Also got the front all painted up, pretty happy with the results, I think the photo makes it look a bit more purple than it is in real life...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300712;image)
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It's upright!
Got a good deal of paint onto the inside of the sides (2 coats of undercoat, 3 of top coat). While I was doing those I realised I had a fair bit of paint in the paint tray left over after coats, so thought I'd use a bit to try on the back panels. Turns out 2 coats of black topcoat work very well for the back panels, I may do a third, but seems this paint is thick enough to not need priming on the mdf (especially for back panels).
I'm pretty happy with the alignment of everything so far, having lots of clamps to make it all fit is also a necessity! (had a few extra trips to the hardware store to pick up wider clamps to fit the 690mm width).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300764;image)
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What paint are you using? The best I found so far is Rustoleum Painter's Touch black. It's so awesome.
AJ
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I'm using Taubmans Endure NG for the black and Dulux Aquanamel (water based enamel) for the blue. Using a small foam roller which leaves a very fine, but even texture (most consistent surface I can get!)
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A bit more progress, here's a shot of the back at the top where you can see a few things going on. At the top there's the fans (2x 140mm, fairly high airflow rate). They are connected via molex connectors to the LEDs at the front, and a cable that runs down to the computer in the base. Speaker cables are coming out of the speaker box, and there are 2 small angle brackets that are holding in the smoked acrylic that will sit in front of the monitors.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300922;image)
Got the monitor stands also installed today, forgot to grab a photo of those.
Below photo shows the progress with the control panel box attached, seemed to work ok as a single unit. The pinball buttons on the side were a little trickier to cut out as the hole inside the control panel box had to be large enough to take the button and the button wrench for installing. I ended up drilling the button holes, then cutting in from the other side using a multi-tool (vibrating buzz cutter as I refer to it as). Marquee has been secured in place using 25mm black PVC angle. Was very happy I discovered this in a local hardware store after hunting around for something suitable. The MDF coloured panels in the screen area and marquee area are acrylic with their protective paper still attached.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300920;image)
Next up painting the sides, applying artwork, wiring, playing?
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Looking awesome :applaud: :applaud:
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Sides painted, t-molding added and CP artwork added!
Need to move this inside now to do the last few bits - final monitor attachment, acrylic marquee, acrylic front screen, buttons, joysticks, electronics etc
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=301051;image)
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Wow. that looks great.
AJ
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Thanks! It's definitely come along well.
With the control panel vinyl, I had sufficient overhang on all straight sides to tuck it fully over the edges and staple underneath. Also enough to bend it over the front and tuck in with the front t-molding. I wasn't sure if the vinyl adhesive would definitely stick, but now it's stapled down it's not going anywhere!
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Looks really good. The less is more was very well executed here.
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Looking Classy :afro:
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All done! As many have mentioned in the past, it's hard to get a good shot of a lit marquee without everything else looking dark, but this is lit up very nicely and consistently. All is running very nicely, and the two fans at the top are sucking plenty of air through the cabinet. I tested my PC the other day with 10 minutes of Mame and 10 minutes of the Model 3 emulator, and measured the max CPU temp at 54 degrees celcius. Installed in the cabinet this test resuted in 60 degrees celcius, so I think that should be ok.
The grey acrylic in front of the monitors has worked very well, I won't require a bezel as everything is very dark behind that.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=301497;image)
I built the following admin panel in the coin door to access a few functions a little easier without pulling the keyboard out.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=301499;image)
Some minor issues I ran into in this final phase:
- The right pinball flipper button and the bottom right player 2 buttons were very close to each other. Both had to have their microswitches rotated to just the right angle for them to not bump into each other.
- The Happ Super joysticks I used were just a little to long and scraped on the bottom of the control panel box when installed. I managed to cut the bottom actuator "hourglass" in half which raised the bottom, and then added an extra conical piece to the topside of the joystick. It shaved 10mm off the bottom which made it fit, and wasn't too detrimental to the throw distance at the top.
- The PC I am using is drawing too much current when in standby so my Eco Powerboard (smartstrip) thinks it's turned on all the time, and keeps all the other connected devices turned on too. I have gotten around this by just turning on and off at the powerpoint.
All up, it's been fun, looking forward to getting some friends around and giving it a workout :)