The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: retrotubeguy432 on March 09, 2013, 07:56:42 am
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So I found this 9 inch green monochrome monitor,do not now what resolution it expects and what Mhz is and has 3 signal input.One goes directly to the board which plugs into the tube,so I think that is the video input(also because i only put composite signal from VCR and it makes a picture,but not steady it goes from the bottom to the top and slightly to the sides(third picture).The other two pins I think are vertical and horizontal syncs.
And what are those lines that are slightly sideways,appear when i turn the crt on with no signal,but they never disappear even when there is a signal going to it (first picture) ? ???
(It creates nice raster but still with those lines going across the screen (second picture) :blank:
I also wired up a vga signal from pc and it was better,the driver board has a H.frequency potentiometer,by turning it i could establish a steady picture,but those lines still go across
the screen and 3 same pictures,but after half a minute it starded to flicker again so i have to calibrate it with the potentiometer again and again (last picture). :angry:
Also tried the LM1881N but no success :blah:
Any help would be appreciated ! ;D
Here are all the technical details of this CRT monitor:
http://www.omnivisionusa.com/monitors/replacement-crt/replacement-crt-monitors/mono-9-inch-.htm (http://www.omnivisionusa.com/monitors/replacement-crt/replacement-crt-monitors/mono-9-inch-.htm) 8)
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Pictures of the monitor main circuit board would help as well as the model number label on the metal frame of the chassis.
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retrace lines .
start by turning down the screen grid .
being a monochome crt , this adjustment may be on the "neck board " rather than on the flyback.
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Okay so I did a lot of work lately and hand drawn all the schematics of this driver and found out that on the TDA 2595 there are pins that arent connected
to anything and one of them are composite signals,syncs out (pin 9).See the schematics.
Data for TDA2595 http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/philips/TDA2595.pdf (http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/philips/TDA2595.pdf)
How to re wire it so it will take composite video ?
Help would be appreciated ! :blank:
Fisrt picture is the main board,second is the board
that plugs into the crt tube.
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if memory serves, Motorola's MC1377 was used as an RGB to composite converter .
it did ;D datasheet here :
http://www.datasheet4u.net/datasheet/M/C/1/MC1377P_MotorolaInc.pdf.html (http://www.datasheet4u.net/datasheet/M/C/1/MC1377P_MotorolaInc.pdf.html)
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I think you have the Omnivision monitor (Model LP-0915Gxxx) used in the Arachnid "English Mark Darts" 6000 series coin op dart games.
http://www.bullshooter.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Omni.pdf (http://www.bullshooter.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Omni.pdf)
Made for CGA resolution and composite video.
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The monitor came from an old CNC machine Siemens i think,Its a Magnetek 579417TA (MONITOR 9 MONOCHROME)
Its exactly the same on picture ! :)
If you look at the TDA 2595 there is pin 9 that isnt connected to anything and the
datasheet of this chip says that its composite sync out or something so its clearly
missing some signals from those pins(also 7,6,1,18). ?
And yes I already tryed composite video(signal) directly on pin 11 but no affect :-\
Help would be welcomed !
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standard composite input "#3" on ur drawing .
couple TDA2595 pin 9 (sync out) to "#2 via .047 -1uF cap.
"should" stabilize sync ?
TDA1175 vertical processor/output
TDA2595 h processor/sync sep
be VERY helpful to have an EIA standard schematic on this . no luck thus far :'(
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I have some good news, I finally got a decent picture on the crt screen,but there are still some minor problems,like those slightly
curved lines thru the screen and the black space on the two sides of the screen that arent filling the screen completely ,but
other then that its pretty good I ques :D
By connecting the Video signal input(yellow 1) to pin 11 on TDA 2595,and composite video signal from VCR connected to
pin 11 and then the pin 9( vertical sync) to TDA 1175p pin 10(sync input),but there are still these curved lines that
annoys me :(
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if reducing the screen voltage has little effect ,
the blanking pulse is not being coupled .
will have another look at the schem/specs when get the chance ..........
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u see the :white's: in your pic ?
we call that >blooming<
it is either the screen is to high,or contrast is to high
or your tube is what we call >gunning< down..ie it is to old
rejuv may be in order here
ed
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Yea you are right,if you look at datasheet on TDA 2595 there is VERTICAL BLANKING PULSE on pin 5 and its not going anywhere(look at the schematics),
but I dont get it,there seems to be a connection going to it and from it but from where to where ? ??? (and what are the two resistors) ?
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Hi there.
I got very bad news,when i was testing something I accidentally shorted the vertical blinking pulse from the TDA 2595 (pin 5) to ground.The crt turn off and would want to start back on.No high voltage,only the heater cums on.I suspect that I shorted the mosfet irf 520 or the transistor BU806,that is mounted on the heat sink.But the TDA 2595 gets hot pretty quickly too hot on the touch(3 or 4 times more hotter then the other ic on the board).How can i test the ic,if its fried or not ?
And is there a possibility that the TDA 1175P also got shorted,when I turn the crt on it gets a bit worm,like before,but not hot like the TDA 2595.(look at the schematics posted earlier)! :-\
And how could I test the flyback to see if its good the easiest way ?
(somebody help me please !?! :cry:
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Hello,
i have the same 9'' monochrome monitor from a Sinumerik 810M. Its a Magnetek 579417TA. On your picture i see your 16 pin flat cable. Do you have the exact pinout off the connector (15V, 0V, Video, Sync,...)?
Best regards
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Well I fixed the monitor,the TDA 2595 was shot so I have replaced it and also the power transistor and the one that goes in the flyback itself.
As you can see on the pictures there are like 7 potenciometers (one is in the back) that were replaced by these small blue PCB potenciometers and
6 switches that allow me to reconfigure the Crt circuitry back to the industrial.
Right now I can connect any composite signal into this thing,but if I reconfigure with the switches back,like it was wired originally,I
can still input separately Video,Horizontal sync and Vertical sync like it was original.separately ;)
Some pictures of the thing.I built the wooden box for it.
THIS MONITOR IS ONE OF A KIND (that I build,was a real pain in the face to rewire it all,so that the CRT would sync the video) ::)
Hy Victor303
You also have the same monitor,does it work,you also get those lines when powering it up ?
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Hi,
Old post reanimated.
So I have actually a cnc machine w this monitor, its a old Deckel FP4NC with a Sinumerik 3M control, I got it for a little more then the price of the iron and as one could have guessed it didnt work anymore. After taking it down and finding some issues and replacing a few caps it worked again. I renewed all the broken bulbs in the thing and cleaned/resealed the linear glass scales.
So since a year or so the machine has worked
Perfect up until 2 days ago while I was working the monitor died. It just went black.
Before it did it did also have the slightly angled horizontal stripes on it after a cold boot for about 5 minutes. Once warm the tube was perfect
I must give a big thumbs up to the topic starter for drawing this diagram. Its the first crt ill try to repair and after searching for days to find nothing in terms of diagrams this is like an oase after 2 days without water in a desert
Id guess my best guess is to first see if the high voltage is still there? I thought to connect a sparkplug to the red anode wire and power the thing up briefly. And then check the supply voltages to these tda IC’s?
Maybe because its my first post I cnanot attach some photos of the tube in action.
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Maybe because its my first post I cnanot attach some photos of the tube in action.
If you're getting some sort of "failed security check" error message, try resizing or cropping the image by about 3-5%. :cheers:
Scott
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Ok here we go.
This is the screen when it was still working. Superficial stripes. When cold they are alot more present
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The high voltage doesn’t seem to be completely missing. :lol
Ill now try to check the supply to the TDA IC’s
Ok so I checked the supply at the TDA, its a bit over 4v. the LM317 is outputting like 4.5v. is this meant to be so low? in the TDA datasheet it says typical supply is 12v. input of the LM317T is 15.1V so thats good.
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Err, are you shorting that HV lead to ground, effectively? Never good to run a chassis without a proper load attached, especially the HV section. If you want to run it without the tube, you should look up the light-bulb trick. I'd detail it here, but i've never had to do it and would probably get some of the details wrong.
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not shorting it directly but I kept like 2-3mm airgap and just powered it on briefly.
So after spending some hours more on it I still didnt really get to the bottom of what is shorting the thing out.
If I remove the BU806 HOT the short goes away and the B+ is 10v. still no light in the tube then. I test the BU806 with a multimeter and on first sight all checks out good. With the BU806 on the board and the the horizontal yoke disconnected the thing is still shortet. I was thinking if there is a short in the HV transformer between pin 1 (B+ supply) and pin 5 (goes to the HOT collector) this could be the cause? without removing the transformer I measure like 0.5 Ohm between pin 1 and 5 (BU806 off the board). as there is nothing else connected to pin 5 apart from a 220k resistor to pin2 of the TDA2595 it must mean the thing is shorted or can this winding really be so low impedance?
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Ok so I managed to source a new flyback with the same partnumber but a different look. I put it on and the short went away and the B+ is no longer stuck to 4.x something volts.
So far so good but still the tube remains dark.
Does anyone know what would be the factory setting in terms of V+ voltage? 10v, 12v? I measured the high voltage at the suction cap and it greatly varies with the B+ with a 100 MOhm impedance. At 10V B+ its about 2500V but if I raise the B+ to 12V its only like 1.2 kV anymore.
There is a slight glow at the back of the tube. Does anyone have an idea what I could do or test next.