The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Nephasth on July 29, 2012, 07:59:01 pm
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Here's my next little project. I'll be building a portable JAMMA test rig/supergun. It will be able to test JAMMA game boards by itself thanks to a 7" monitor. It will also be able to test arcade monitors with its RGB-S video out and isolated power out. It will have composite, s-video, and VGA out and internal and external audio. Also 2 DB15 connectors for NeoGeo and custom controllers. Just got the case the other day, and will be ordering the rest of the parts soon.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=215267)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=215269)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=215306)
Want one? I'm thinking about building more than one: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=244322 (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=244322)
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Looks like a great project.
I will follow it with interest. :applaud:
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Cool stuff. Will the 7" monitor be a small CRT or will a scaler be involved?
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Will the 7" monitor be a small CRT or will a scaler be involved?
The 7" monitor is an LCD. This particular monitor directly accepts the 15khz RGB-S signal put out by most JAMMA boards. It's a 16:9 ratio, but if you put 5V to one of its pins, it will letterbox 4:3.
Here's a shot under the lid showing a little more detail:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=219282)
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Subscribe! :o :applaud:
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For a test rig, why not use a much smaller joystick or Dpad - to keep it from sticking up so much. maybe one of those digi-key ones like people have used on their mini builds.
Also, what about putting everything under the top lid rather than on top. Then either remove or flip up the lid to use it.
Also, I would have the jamma connector on a cable and able to flip out when needed so the board can lie flat on the work surface. With the connector built into the side, you may have to support the other end of the board while plugged in.
Recess the RCA jacks. or put them on top under the lid. maybe the display could be on the underside of the lid and used bartop style when opened.
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For a test rig, why not use a much smaller joystick or Dpad - to keep it from sticking up so much. maybe one of those digi-key ones like people have used on their mini builds.
I've ordered a much smaller industrial joystick, the JLW was all I had access to in Sketchup. Here's the one that will be used: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/75512.pdf (http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/75512.pdf)
It will only protrude 39mm from the lid. Compared to the JLW's ~70mm height with balltop installed.
Also, what about putting everything under the top lid rather than on top. Then either remove or flip up the lid to use it.
The dimensions and design of the box I am using would make this difficult. The lid isn't readily removable and only opens 90 degrees as is.
Also, I would have the jamma connector on a cable and able to flip out when needed so the board can lie flat on the work surface. With the connector built into the side, you may have to support the other end of the board while plugged in.
I'll be making my own JAMMA extension harness about 3' long. I won't be connecting boards directly to the unit.
Recess the RCA jacks. or put them on top under the lid. maybe the display could be on the underside of the lid and used bartop style when opened.
The onboard monitor is for testing purposes only. When the unit is being used as a supergun the display used while playing will be a much larger TV/monitor.
There won't be much room inside the box to have everything be internal. The power supply, isolation transformer, and video converters will take up a lot of real estate inside (along with the lid components' depth and internal wiring). But there will be enough room to store the various cords and harnesses (but I don't think I'll be able to store NeoGeo controllers inside).
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I knew you'd thought out all the details. Interested to see the case/source thereof.
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Where did you get the case from?
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Interested to see the case/source thereof.
Where did you get the case from?
I've found a guy with a limited quantity. I'm trying to work out a deal for 10 more, once that's done or falls through I'll post pics of the case.
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That monitor sounds awesome, but will it work with funky refreshrates, like Seibu's Raiden series?
To bring the profile down you could use a SANWA JLF equipped with The Link (detachable shaft) or just use 24 mm pushbuttons mounted hitbox style?
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That monitor sounds awesome, but will it work with funky refreshrates, like Seibu's Raiden series?
No clue. Don't even know if the video converter boards will handle that. This setup will be able to test/play the majority of "standard" game boards and a good hand full of classics via adapters.
To bring the profile down you could use a SANWA JLF equipped with The Link (detachable shaft) or just use 24 mm pushbuttons mounted hitbox style?
This was something that I tossed around back and forth in my head. But in the end I decided on a non-conventional joystick with 24mm buttons to test P1 and 12mm buttons for P2. Mainly due to the fact that if I wanted to enjoy decent playability, I can hook up custom controllers via the DB15 connectors. JAMMA+ games will have additional harnesses for custom controllers to plug into each game's kick harness header.
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About 98% of the parts (for the first one) have been ordered. This just showed up today. :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=232957)
Even came with different restrictors (and mounting hardware not pictured).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=232959)
8-way operation feels pretty good on this. This is a much higher quality stick than I was expecting. We'll see how it performs once installed.
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That's a pretty cool little stick.
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Modelled the stick this morning.
How it compares to a JLW.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=234183)
Makes those 24mm buttons look big...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=234185)
Underneath.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=234187)
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I've got some more cases on the way. Here's what they look like. The logo is painted on, but I've got plans to take care of that.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=234425)
Approximate monitor and joystick placement.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=234427)
Inside. Those brackets will be removed...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=234429)
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Cases look great! :cheers:
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Now this looks like something I might wanna subscribe to..
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Did a bench test of the major components going into the Briefcase. I've had the Hellfire board for half a year, and this is the first time I've powered it up (big thanks to nitz for the board). Monitor needs a little adjustment, and the little speaker works good too. Waiting for the last of the parts to come in. I've started the cutout template in Visio for the top of the lid as well.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=255521)
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Man, I wish I would have got in on those monitors back then...
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Yeah, they're pretty awesome little monitors. I grabbed 3 back then, and made the harnesses for ~80% of the monitors that were ordered (kind of glad that's over with). I was considering scrapping the MiniBeast project to use all my monitors for Briefcases... but after getting one going last night I kind of want to make a MiniBeast or two again. Now I'm wishing I had bought more monitors when I had the chance.
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Where are you going to fit the MAME PC?
its jamma i don't think he is putting a pc in there.
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.
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VGA - check.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=256564)
Composite - check.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=256566)
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.
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Composite check? :w00t
Awesome work!!
:cheers:
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Bit late to this thread.
Sure you've seen it, but just in case not:
http://www.focusattack.com/jlf-link/ (http://www.focusattack.com/jlf-link/)
(detachable shaft for Sanwa JLF)
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where did you get that little joystick. I need one for my racing cab!
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Composite check? :w00t
Awesome work!!
:cheers:
Thanks man.
Bit late to this thread.
Sure you've seen it, but just in case not:
http://www.focusattack.com/jlf-link/ (http://www.focusattack.com/jlf-link/)
(detachable shaft for Sanwa JLF)
It was a consideration, but cost and size led me to the stick I'm using.
where did you get that little joystick. I need one for my racing cab!
UPS. ;D
Search for "Apem joystick", you find a few cool ones.
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Here's the main reason why I "bench tested" the components the other day... New board just came in, and I wanted to make sure it was working when it got here. ;D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=257132)
Yep, it works.
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Where's the I'm Jealous you son of a ---smurfette--- emoticon?
Some day the devs will tackle Raiden II. :banghead:
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Nice! Out of curiosity, does it save high scores?
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Nice! Out of curiosity, does it save high scores?
Nope. :'( "xxx" for names on high score list.
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Nice! Out of curiosity, does it save high scores?
Nope. :'( "xxx" for names on high score list.
Figured, both my Seibu boards are the same way. Thought you might be luckier! (Not that I will be posting many scores to be proud of ;D)
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I'm all for projects for the sake of keeping a man's hands busy, but what's the ultimate purpose of this?
I like this question!
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Seibu boards are great to test as they have weird refresh rates that some screens can't handle.
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Well, I really thought I'd be done with this project by now. A parts order from China has been holding the whole thing up. The small momentary pushbuttons are what I'm waiting on. I ordered them back in late July. The first package got lost in LA, the seller was nice enough to send a replacement package (15 buttons total), but it showed up with only 1 button inside. Notified the seller and they said that they would ship out the remaining 14 in a hurry. Got those today... but they're not momentary!!! Ordering from China is pretty much a crap shoot... :banghead:
Well, the seller is sending yet another package. The lengths they'll go to for peanuts...
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Well, I really thought I'd be done with this project by now. A parts order from China has been holding the whole thing up. The small momentary pushbuttons are what I'm waiting on. I ordered them back in late July. The first package got lost in LA, the seller was nice enough to send a replacement package (15 buttons total), but it showed up with only 1 button inside. Notified the seller and they said that they would ship out the remaining 14 in a hurry. Got those today... but they're not momentary!!! Ordering from China is pretty much a crap shoot... :banghead:
Well, the seller is sending yet another package. The lengths they'll go to for peanuts...
What did you pay? Like $10 shipped? :cheers:
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What did you pay? Like $10 shipped? :cheers:
$27.75 shipped. $1.85 each. Which is the only reason I've kept on it...
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Well, the right buttons finally made it here. Now it's time to get the ball rolling on this one. Yesterday I removed the 5V adjustment pot from the power supply so I can solder in a remote pot that will be adjustable from the top of the case. I also fabricated the mounting brackets for the only two components that will require them; the monitor and the power supply.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=270960)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=270962)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=270964)
I need to finalize the cutout template for the top of the case and then I can begin making the holes for all of the components. Hopefully I'll get a little momentum going on this thing...
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Hey Nephasth,
what did you use to get the composite to work? (got a link) Raiden II is one of my favorites, good find.
:cheers:
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A Weiya CV-04. eBay link (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weiya-CV-04-RGBS-RGB-CGA-arcade-jamma-game-to-TV-composite-video-converter-MAME-/260868532793?pt=PCC_Video_TV_Cards&hash=item3cbcf9ea39). It will also output s-video (not labelled in the auction pics, but the s-video connector is right next to the composite connector and has a sticker on top of it).
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Top layout is finalized. Hopefully cutting and drilling will begin soon...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=270984)
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I was able to get a couple hours of work in on this project today. I got all the round holes in the top panel drilled and those components test fitted.
First I printed off my cutout template I made in Visio and taped it to the top of the case. Then I cut out the square holes and scribed the lid with a razor blade for the straight cuts. This is why I love using Visio for templates.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=270999)
Then I cut up some scrap wood and placed the boards inside the case with some rags. This was done to provide support for the lid while center punching and drilling to help reduce the amount of surface distortion.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271001)
Drill baby drill! I used cheap Chinese hole saws I got off ebay for the larger holes. They ended up working better than expected for the price. All the holes drilled out.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271003)
Most of the lid components test fitted. The round rocker switches aren't installed all the way, they're a press fit and I won't fully install them until final assembly. The joystick works and feels great installed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271005)
A closer shot to show the scribe lines for the monitor cutout.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271007)
Getting excited seeing this in its current state! ;D
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I'm excited too. :cheers:
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I'm excited too. :cheers:
:cheers:
Side templates are made and ready to print out. Cut out the monitor and volt meter holes this afternoon.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271044)
Fit test. Monitor is just taped to the back side of the lid. There will be no gap when the monitor brackets get bolted to the lid.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271046)
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Looking good so far. Did you use the Dremel for the squares after all?
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Thanks. I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel for the volt meter hole since it is so small. I used an air cutoff wheel to cut the monitor hole. My biggest concern with both was "run away". I used a metal "fence" and cut on the insides of the lines to get staight cuts. I actually took a pic of the setup, but the damned phone didn't save it properly. You can see a couple of notches in the top and bottom of the volt meter hole, the volt meter has retaining tabs at those locations that don't squeeze in far enough to clear those sides without notches present.
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Bailing on the old name. Renamed this project the Troubleshooter supergun. Got all but one of the side holes cut out. I was able to mount the fan to determine the final position of the power supply and the approximate positions of the rest of the internal components. She'll be ready for paint before too long...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271336)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271338)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271340)
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Looks like there's plenty of space in there. :cheers:
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Finished all the holes finally. Test fit everything together.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271702)
This is not the JAMMA harness I will be using during final assembly, it's just in there to fill the edge connector hole. Also, the power cord is to show where the harnesses will be stored.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271704)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271706)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271708)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271710)
Player 1 and 2 controller ports.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271712)
Top power outlet is fused power in, bottom is isolated power out for arcade monitors.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=271714)
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This is epic!
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I am a tard I know, but what is this thing supposed to do? Make sure a game board works properly? :dunno
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This is epic!
:cheers:
I am a tard I know, but what is this thing supposed to do? Make sure a game board works properly? :dunno
In addition to this being a SuperGun (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SuperGun) that can output video via VGA, composite, or S-Video (in the future), it also doubles as a JAMMA test rig that can test JAMMA PCBs, non-JAMMA PCBs (with appropriate adapters), and arcade monitors to verify functionality. Let's say I want to go check out a game for sale, and it plays blind. I can bring this with me, unplug the JAMMA harness from the game board in the cabinet and plug in my JAMMA extension harness to the game board, then turn it on to see if the game plays on the test rig. If the game doesn't play on the test rig, I can test the monitor (with a PCB I bring with me, like a 60in1 because it's small) to see if it works. If I ever get a hold of a pattern generator, I'll incorporate it into the test rig as well, negating the need to bring a working PCB with me to check monitors. So... this will allow me to quickly narrow down main problems with new (to me) games, and also play arcade PCBs in my living room (due to the lack of a JAMMA cab in my game room) or even in hotel rooms when I'm on the road for work.
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Really cool Nephasth, :applaud:
This will definitely come in handy. Just wondering how many jamma boards you own?
:cheers:
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Can't recall if it's been covered but is there a final finish slated for the case? I'd recommend getting it powder coated but you'd need to bore everything a little bigger to account for the paint. This is a great tool you're making. :applaud:
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Neato. Subscribed.
AJ
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This one's been on the back burner for a while. Pretty busy through the holidays. Built a dollhouse for my daughter, a CP for KeithPuetz, and have been working on other smaller projects. But a big kick in the pants just showed up today from down south! Thanks again yotsuya! You're the ---smurfing--- man! :cheers:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=277665)
Yotsuya was nice enough to make some stencils for this project, most of which are for button/switch labels and the logo as seen above.
Can't recall if it's been covered but is there a final finish slated for the case? I'd recommend getting it powder coated but you'd need to bore everything a little bigger to account for the paint. This is a great tool you're making. :applaud:
I might bring the case down to the local powder coat shop to see what they say about it. But the handle and latches are rivetted on with chrome rivets and I'm not sure if they can mask those from the powder coat or not. More than likely I'll just spray paint the top to try and color match the gray, maybe with a black pinstripe border. The stencils will be used to paint the labels on in black, and I may clear coat afterwards. We'll find out soon enough.
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Where did you get all those small black buttons and what's the part number? They seem to be smaller than Sanwa SDM-20?
edit: we're all jealous of your Raiden II board.
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Ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-Black-Momentary-OFF-ON-N-O-Push-Button-Car-Boat-Switch-12mm-Normally-OFF-/321026904898?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abeb1d342). They're much smaller. They mount in a 12mm hole. Looks like they come in red (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-Red-Momentary-OFF-ON-N-O-Push-Button-Car-Boat-Switch-12mm-Normally-OFF-/321026919666?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abeb20cf2) too, so they may also have them in other colors as well.
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=277665)
Cool story, bro. >:D
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Woah.
Just jumped in here for the first time, I gotta say: :notworthy:
You really thought of everything! Isolated power for arcade monitors? what!?? :drool
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drill out and re-rivet or mini carriage bolt. Must have PC.
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drill out and re-rivet or mini carriage bolt. Must have PC.
There are two companies that do powder coating in my town. Both gave me a quote of $75 to blast and coat. Most of the parts purchased for this build have been budget items, so I think I'll splurge a little and go the PC route.
This has been sitting on a shelf for months with all the components installed. I disassemble the whole thing today and prepped it for powder coating. I knocked down the high edges left behind by drilling with my die grinder and popped those rivets out with a cutoff wheel. Carriage bolts sound like the way to go as far as remounting the latches and handle.
I'm going to try to save about $25 on the powder coating, and see if my buddy Dmen can help me out with the blasting. Might have to trade some of my automotive skills this time, I feel a little guilty asking for help from him with some of my arcade related items, but he does such great work.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=278249)
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The powder coater called this morning, and I just picked this beauty up! Thanks to those who helped push me in this direction, the finish is amazing!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=279921)
A close up.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=279923)
Powder coating was done by T&T Customs in Cheyenne. The finish is T064-GR05 Silver Hammertone Semi-Gloss by Cardinal Paint.
Once the weather gets a little nicer I'll be painting the stencils on.
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Damn that looks slick man, good job.
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Sweet project!
When you get tired of your Raiden II board, just let me know ;)
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Thanks guys! :cheers:
Got excited about this and couldn't wait to paint it. Using vinyl stickers as stencils worked out pretty slick. Once the paint fully cures I'll have to go back and make a few tiny touch ups (like the second "u" in "supergun").
Here's a shot during vinyl removal.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=280013)
And the rest with some close ups.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=280015)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=280017)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=280019)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=280021)
I can't thank yotsuya enough. The stencils turned out great! Thanks again man!
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:applaud:
This looks spetacularly professional.
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:applaud:
This looks spetacularly professional.
Thank you! :cheers:
Finished up the JAMMA extension harness this evening. Made it three feet long.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=285648)
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Oops - I think I see a little solder bridge on the edge board . . . . wait for it . . . .between the two black wires! [rimshot] Oh, I kill myself.
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:lol
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lhko3mJUGI1qdm61io1_500.jpg)
;)
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Coming all back together. Assembly is about 98% done. I've got a replacement volume knob on the way (last one was damaged), need to make a plate out of the monitor cutout for the 24mm buttons so they snug up, and I'm looking into some feet for this since the screw heads on the bottom have the potential to scratch whatever surface this is set on. Pretty much just the wiring left now. :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=285895)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=285897)
I added some tinted plexi between the monitor and the lid to protect the screen.
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This thing looks awesome! :cheers:
Can't wait to see some boards hooked up to it....perhaps a Cave-Man Ninja board you might have laying around.....
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This thing looks awesome! :cheers:
Can't wait to see some boards hooked up to it....perhaps a Cave-Man Ninja board you might have laying around.....
I might have one of those laying around here somewhere... ;)
Thanks again man!
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=287229)
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Ohhhh snap! Cave-Man NINJA!
Had quite a lot of fun playing that thing before I tore it out of that beat up machine.
Caveman Ninja (Arcade) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGRGZUWOG_U#)
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amazing just amazing mate. Congrats on owning the slickest supergun around.
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Ohhhh snap! Cave-Man NINJA!
Had quite a lot of fun playing that thing before I tore it out of that beat up machine.
:cheers: The game seems to have a bit of a graphics glitch, missing some colors and a little blocky in some spots. But this why I'm building the Troubleshooter, to start doing some board repair!
amazing just amazing mate. Congrats on owning the slickest supergun around.
Thanks man! Being a supergun just happened to be a "throw in" with this project. Not sure how often I'll use it as a supergun, but it's there if I ever want it to be. ;D
Only about 25%-33% done with the wiring. I've only got all the power wired up (includes AC in, ISO AC out, fan, 5V pot and meter, LED switch lighting, converter board power, and monitor power) and the video signal to the monitor at this point. Probably about 10 more hours of wiring before the core is complete, then it's on to making some of the external harnesses... and maybe a controller or two.
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Finished up the internal wiring tonight. She's fully functional now! :)
What's left: Make the external harnesses, fabricate a compartment for the inside, and touchup some paint.
I'm going to be bringing this to the Rocky Mountain Pinball Showdown just in case someone may have a board or two I'm interested in.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=287872)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=287874)
You can see the shim I made for the 24mm buttons to better hold them in place. And if you look real close you can see the back sides of the rivets of the rubber rivet feet.
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:cheers:
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Here's a few pics I shared over on KLOV...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=288323)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=288325)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=288327)
Packing her up for the RMPS just in case. ;)
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Beautiful result! :cheers:
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how soon till mines ready?
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video walkthrough please.
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Beautiful result! :cheers:
Thanks man! Much appreciated! :cheers:
how soon till mines ready?
Unless you can find one of these monitors... odds are looking slim. I originally wanted to build 5 or 6 of these so I could sell some, but there is way too much labor involved for me to want to make another. But I do have spare cases if you want one.
video walkthrough please.
In time, my friend. I'll even narrate, though I hate the sound of my recorded voice... ;)
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does it have to be VGA? I have a couple composite monitors. I used the VGA one in the marquee of Checkered Past
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Looks awesome, and very handy for repair work! :applaud:
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=288327)
My God man if you walked down the street holding that I think 10 FBI vans would come screeching around the corner to take you out. It looks fantastic though, I think this pretty much makes you a God of arcade nerds.
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My God man if you walked down the street holding that I think 10 FBI vans would come screeching around the corner to take you out.
* FBI agents pour out of the vans with weapons drawn. *
Agent: "DROP THE DEVICE AND PUT YOUR HANDS ON YOUR HEAD!!!"
Nephasth: "What's the big deal? It's just my Supergun."
* Agents open fire. * >:D
On a more serious note, this build is a great combination of design, function and aesthetics. :applaud:
Scott
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does it have to be VGA? I have a couple composite monitors. I used the VGA one in the marquee of Checkered Past
The monitor in this isn't VGA. It accepts the CGA signal put out by the game pcbs. But I suppose with the proper converter, you could put whatever monitor you wanted in the lid.
Looks awesome, and very handy for repair work! :applaud:
It looks fantastic though.
On a more serious note, this build is a great combination of design, function and aesthetics. :applaud:
Thanks guys! :cheers:
My God man if you walked down the street holding that I think 10 FBI vans would come screeching around the corner to take you out.
Took it in and out of a hotel this weekend, nobody noticed. :dunno
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:notworthy:
Awesome build! Watching what you and other members do on the forum has definitely help alleviate some of my concerns with regards to my own ability to venture into this world!
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Great looking Test Rig/Supergun. Looks better than any unit I have ever seen. :applaud: :applaud:
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you might consider getting some of those chrome loop bars that you see on vintage electronics faceplates - to protect the protruding joystick, etc. I was going to post a pic but I have no idea what those things are called to search for.
here's the best pic I could find: two big ones on either side. for your purposes they could be much smaller.
(http://www.strafe.com/panel/PanelFace.jpg)
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You may be able to find something similar at Lowes in the drawer pull area:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_89212-103-BP19017SS_0__?productId=4718467&Ntt=stainless+drawer+pull (http://www.lowes.com/pd_89212-103-BP19017SS_0__?productId=4718467&Ntt=stainless+drawer+pull)
Or, you can look online for some old networking equipment...
AJ
you might consider getting some of those chrome loop bars that you see on vintage electronics faceplates - to protect the protruding joystick, etc. I was going to post a pic but I have no idea what those things are called to search for.
here's the best pic I could find: two big ones on either side. for your purposes they could be much smaller.
(http://www.strafe.com/panel/PanelFace.jpg)
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I literally stumbeld upon this thread tonight. As a SuperGun builder and blogger I can say this is a sweet build, well done. I'd be interested in picking up an extra case if you are still interested in selling (and the price was right ;) ).
For the VGA adapter, looks like the GBS-2880, what part number is that VGA port and the plastic connector for the RGBS inputs that you connected to the board for the external VGA connection? I have a couple of these adapters that I am thinking of using for some new SuperGuns but haven't found those parts in the brief amount of time looking. Mind sharing? :-D
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:notworthy:
Awesome build! Watching what you and other members do on the forum has definitely help alleviate some of my concerns with regards to my own ability to venture into this world!
Great looking Test Rig/Supergun. Looks better than any unit I have ever seen. :applaud: :applaud:
I literally stumbeld upon this thread tonight. As a SuperGun builder and blogger I can say this is a sweet build, well done.
Thanks guys! It's always great to hear! :cheers:
I'd be interested in picking up an extra case if you are still interested in selling (and the price was right ;) ).
Once I get yotsuya's partial "kit" put together and shipped off to him I'll get a hold of you about one of the remaining cases.
For the VGA adapter, looks like the GBS-2880, what part number is that VGA port and the plastic connector for the RGBS inputs that you connected to the board for the external VGA connection? I have a couple of these adapters that I am thinking of using for some new SuperGuns but haven't found those parts in the brief amount of time looking. Mind sharing? :-D
Correct on the adapter. However, the VGA extension you see pictured isn't transmitting the signal appropriately to the VGA monitors (not sure if it's a pinout issue between the header and connector, or if that header doesn't have the signals present). I have another VGA extenstion (that will plug into the D-sub connector on the board) on the way to resolve this issue (already tested and confirmed).
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Oh ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---, Christmas comes early in Casa de Yotsuya...
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This rig has been functional for many months now, and has been used on my own boards and friends' boards many times. But the one thing that wasn't "finished" was the ability to used this to test arcade monitors. Been lazy in the hobby most of this year for many reasons, and it's a little sad knowing the last thing to finish this up took me only 20 minutes to make. :-[
Finally got around to making the video signal harness for arcade monitors today. I made it the same length as the power cord used to power said monitors.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=301486)
As always, careful planning in the early stages pays dividends. Made the harness, plugged it into my Ms Pacman monitor (just because it was the easiest monitor to access), and it just worked. Love it when that happens. The board connected to the Troubleshooter is one I recently acquired for an upcoming project.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=301488)
Can't say I'm a big fan of the banana jacks, but they work.
Just wondering how many jamma boards you own?
Got around to counting them the other day (and updated my VAPS on KLOV), sitting at 19 right now. :o
I feel like a hoarder. :-\
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Nice work on the final piece of your puzzle. :cheers:
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as great as this is, I have yet to receive mine in the mail. Its getting cold standing next to the mail box. :cheers:
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Awesome rig, turned out really nice!
19 Jamma boards is not quite hoarding... the question is how many non-working Jamma boards do you have? If that number is close to 19, you might be a hoarder ;)
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How does one store 19 unused jamma boards?
On a shelf that can hold 50 *ba-dum tish" tip your waitress, I'll be here all night!
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Words cannot describe how professional and awesome looking, that tester rig is.
Very impressive! :applaud:
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I saw your post on KLOV that you got your Freekick board! Nice job! :applaud:
What's your plan for it? Surely it's not going in the ms.pac cocktail.
May I ask how much you paid for it? I was able to get mine off ebay last year for $20 :D
Fun game IMO, but ridiculously hard.
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Thanks guys! :cheers:
as great as this is, I have yet to receive mine in the mail. Its getting cold standing next to the mail box. :cheers:
Package came back as "suspicious". Sorry dude.
I saw your post on KLOV that you got your Freekick board! Nice job! :applaud:
What's your plan for it? Surely it's not going in the ms.pac cocktail.
May I ask how much you paid for it? I was able to get mine off ebay last year for $20 :D
Fun game IMO, but ridiculously hard.
A guy sent me a PM (WTB ads really do work!) offering it for $30 shipped, so I jumped on it. The board is for my next arcade related project, Arkanoid Plus (tentative name). I've been thinking about commissioning you for some art for it. I'll be using a 6-in-1 JAMMA switcher for Arkanoid, Tournament Arkanoid, Revenge of Doh, Gigas, Goindol, and Free Kick. Free Kick was the last piece of hardware I needed for the project.
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Nice tattoo, weirdo.
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Nice tattoo, weirdo.
What the hell are you talking about?
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nice work Nephasth
forget what they say
and for pbj just tell him to ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- the fudge down and shut the fudge up
ed
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Thanks Ed!
Jim, ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- the ---fudgesicle--- down!
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:cheers:
i watched it from start to finish
building 1 like it for my shop
ed
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A guy sent me a PM (WTB ads really do work!) offering it for $30 shipped, so I jumped on it. The board is for my next arcade related project, Arkanoid Plus (tentative name). I've been thinking about commissioning you for some art for it. I'll be using a 6-in-1 JAMMA switcher for Arkanoid, Tournament Arkanoid, Revenge of Doh, Gigas, Goindol, and Free Kick. Free Kick was the last piece of hardware I needed for the project.
Oh that sounds rad! I was thinking about something similar for Arkanoid 2, and free kick in a bartop, but a deal fell through for the Doh board.
I'm seriously looking forward to seeing your ultimate spinner cab!
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what's with all this board love? feels like I'm at a different forum. 6X Jamma switching!
Remember when taxidermied goats used to get mamed?
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If you mame too much, you'll go blind! :lol
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or at least grow hair on your palms.
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Where's the I'm Jealous you son of a ---smurfette--- emoticon?
Some day the devs will tackle Raiden II. :banghead:
Well, now Raiden II is playable in MAME (at least that's what I hear)... And here we both sit, with Raiden II boards. :lol
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Where's the I'm Jealous you son of a ---smurfette--- emoticon?
Some day the devs will tackle Raiden II. :banghead:
Well, now Raiden II is playable in MAME (at least that's what I hear)... And here we both sit, with Raiden II boards. :lol
:cheers: Opt says he call tell a difference in Mame version, I will choose to believe that the actual hardware is more desirable until proven otherwise.
I have a recurring dream that one day I walk into that cab graveyard from the alpha one thread with your supergun and buy a working macross plus and vimana boards for $20
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I have a recurring dream that one day I walk into that cab graveyard from the alpha one thread with your supergun and buy a working macross plus and vimana boards for $20
That made my day right there. ;D :cheers:
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I got my Vimana board for $30. Didn't like it and sold it for $100. Get an Out Zone board instead, it's the best Toaplan by far. :cheers:
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I got my Vimana board for $30. Didn't like it and sold it for $100. Get an Out Zone board instead, it's the best Toaplan by far. :cheers:
Blasphemy! ;D
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What's the make & model on that LCD?
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Wow. Time has slipped away...