The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Arcade Collecting => Miscellaneous Arcade Talk => Topic started by: SavannahLion on April 15, 2012, 09:28:29 pm
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I'm just entertaining this idea.
Is it unreasonable to add a second layer of acrylic to a CPO. For example, the first layer would have the art applied and the second, thinner, layer would protect the artwork.
To give it perspective, it's the same idea as what is used for sandwiching printed marquee art.
Or perhaps like the mylar coating some ops put on a pinball playfield. However, removing the mylar would be damaging to the underlying artwork which is partly why I'm entertaining this idea. (I don't own a pinball so that's not the application, sorry :( )
The goal is to avoid scratching the hell out of the first layer of acrylic.
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I'm not sure I understand the end goal.
You're saying you'd have a sandwich like this?
Thin acrylic
artwork
thicker acrylic
CP base (mdf or whatever)
It doesn't seem like you'd gain anything from doing that. But maybe I'm misunderstanding the layout.
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I'm not sure I understand the end goal.
You're saying you'd have a sandwich like this?
Thin acrylic
artwork
thicker acrylic
CP base (mdf or whatever)
It doesn't seem like you'd gain anything from doing that. But maybe I'm misunderstanding the layout.
No, not exactly. It's more like.
Thin acrylic
thicker acrylic + artwork
CP base (mdf or whatever)
I'm entertaining the idea of painting the art directly onto the acrylic. I'm just not interesting in having to repaint the art X years down the road.
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No Reason not to. A few things to be careful of though.
Clear acrylic is not 100% clear. Each extra layer will slight dull and discolour the artwork. Two layers will be very minor though.
Clean each layer with an anti-static cleaner before putting the layers together and make sure they are very clean as you sandwich the layers, even a speck of two of dust will end up scratching both of the panels with the small movements between the layers
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Ok. So you're thinking of potentially painting the underside of the lower acrylic sheet, and you don't want it's top surface scratched up, resulting in having to toss the artwork as well.
Makes sense. I don't see any reason not to.
You may have to adjust how to route out the underside of the CP to accomodate the slight extra thickness (say for a trackball mount) but other than than.
If you can do reverse painting (matt painting?) like that, damn, i want to see that CP!
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Why not just paint the MDF?
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I tried this on my MK1/UMK3 conversion it didn't work out to well, however it is possible you just have to be very careful when drilling holes through the plexi/lexan I used to thin of a sheet for the top and it cracked/broke on the first drilling, if I were to do it again i would use a thin sheet for the bottom and a standard sized sheet for the top
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Why not just paint the MDF?
You missed the "whatever" part. ;)
I tried this on my MK1/UMK3 conversion it didn't work out to well, however it is possible you just have to be very careful when drilling holes through the plexi/lexan I used to thin of a sheet for the top and it cracked/broke on the first drilling,
Were you using acrylic bits or modify your bits for acrylic?