The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Arcade Collecting => Pinball => Topic started by: TopJimmyCooks on December 20, 2011, 08:13:26 pm
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Bought a Game Plan Sharpshooter sight unseen, from CL, advertised not working, for very short green. I'll lay eyes on it for the first time on Friday. If it's totally roached I'll make it into a coffee table. Otherwise, it's all part of my ALL-1979 gameroom lineup master plan.
What have I gotten myself into this time? We'll see.
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Actually your recent rebuild thread gave me the impetus to follow up on this one. Otherwise I might have passed on a more obscure machine. I'm looking forward to checking it out.
Is there any way to get the "before" pix back working on your thread? I looked at it tonight and only the later ones are still linked.
Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk
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Picked up the Gameplan Sharpshooter: - Overall I'm pleased with what I got.
Paint on the cabinet is very flaky.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eVkYCDDkWTM/Tve8QcIwAYI/AAAAAAAABEM/Kk81ujm7KOY/s640/2011-12-23_16-09-36_752.jpg)
Locks are destroyed, coin mechs/coin box are absent.
backglass looks great, just a few pinholes in pure white areas like the sleeves and the clouds. There is a small rub on the first O in sharpshooter. Good candidate for easy touch up and spray.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3BPolfniq6c/Tve8WV75KuI/AAAAAAAABEU/7OvseOP6Vo8/s640/2011-12-23_16-10-06_778.jpg)
Playfield is quite decent with a few crazed areas, a couple of touch ups needed, and a buttload of ball swirls. the ball that came out of the machine looked disgusting. Plastics are wavy but good with only one clear one broken.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sUaWA1YF4AY/Tve-z8egulI/AAAAAAAABEc/OuqZStDF1fE/s640/2011-12-23_16-10-27_92.jpg)
The sound board, solenoid board and power board look really nice. the MPU is another story. it's a toss up whether the bad corrosion or the fire took it out.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-aJRT9jtRsrY/Tve76z1mGLI/AAAAAAAABFY/xKYOBrKuDZw/s640/2011-12-25_19-10-18_804.jpg)
Overall I'm looking forward to getting it working and then digging in on some cosmetic restoration. I consider this somewhat of a practice for some higher end/harder restoration work possibly to come.
PinballJim: did that RGP board repair guy that did yours get the job done? can you pass on his info? i'd love not to double my investment in this thing with a repro mpu.
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Not a personal fan of games from that era, but i can totally dig this pin! Single level, but with tons to do and a cool layout for sure.
Let us know and throw up some pics when it is working!
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@PBJ: the two rectangular mylars are very well adhered and cleaned up nicely. All the others are practically falling off. Is there any precedent for masking the rectangle ones off off and brushing clear around them/hand sanding around them? I realize a pro restorer on a valuable pin would never do that.
On the board guy, all I can do is ask him. I wouldn't be surprised at a turn down. Nobody wanted to work on my bally mpu which was less corroded than this. I like this enough that I'm willing to work on it myself and then give up and go the $200 if I have to. There's also a gameplan coney island around here for about $200. can't tell from the ad but i assume from the price that it at least works some. Maybe a possible board sharer/donor until a good board shows up.
@JRivelli - hopefully I can report a working game sometime in 2012!
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After consulting some board repair guys, a plumber and a proctologist the sharpshooter board repair is a non-starter. I'm on the list for an echo lake board, supposed to be mfgd in February. To the tune of $249. :dizzy: Maybe I should go look for donors.
If you guys are BS'ing me and this game sucks to play i'm coming after you. >:D
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I'll do some soldering on it, but there's a couple of chips on there that the echo lake guy said would be very difficult to track down if they're shot. One of which appears to be right in the area over the power connector that got hot during the fire. If I can find a good donor type board for chips I'll move the rom's over. Another thing, the current fix for the clearly damaged reset section is a modification requiring cutting traces, different chips, etc. I understand it but frankly I'm not experienced enough to do a board repair final exam right now.
Plus I just want to know the F'er works before I invest more time in buffing it up.
Does it drain off the low pop bumpers a lot? or do you just manage it with the right flipper when it goes that way? How often does the 50K roll over lane come in to play?
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Just wrote a big check for the echo lake board. Ordered $50 worth of misc parts. I had to get rubbers at a minimum, so went ahead and got everything it needed. Hopefully it comes together and plays here in a few days. Then, off to the races with cabinet respray, playfield touch up and clear and cleaning everything up.
Yes, I know it's not going to be worth what I've got it it but it will help me learn and decide if I want to do other restores on higher value machines.
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Installed the new MPU, replaced the burned connector, tested power supply per Clay's directions, found it within specs. Fired it up.
The problem I have is that pressing the start game button seems to do the same thing as the coin door test switch - almost as if they were shorted together. Rather than starting a game it starts audit mode/solenoid test, etc. I checked for any crazy hacking/freeplay mods, etc. in the cabinet and everything looks stock. I'll have to start tracing/isolating that. Coin up switches aren't working but I've got the mpu set on freeplay so it can be attacked later.
The good news is that when I go through the audits/tests most everything seems to work, mostly. GI, controlled lamps, solenoids, sounds are at least basically functioning on test. I can't really play a game, though. Something is weird with the displays controls as well. P 2 and 3 flash constantly and some other inconsistencies, not sure if any scoring ever showed on the displays.
Project continues. Any ideas on the start button would be appreciated.
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Ok, got it to start and play after a fashion. I unplugged the two nonworking displays and was able to restart the machine and get a game to start. added credits by cutting the wires off the coinup switches and shorting them together. (both coin switches are kaput). I replaced the coin door test switch and it's diode out of paranoia, but that problem is further upstream. The removed diode was within specs after testing outside the machine. Visually checked for obvious bent switch/fish paper, etc. problems. Reseated the few connectors I hadn't messed with already.
It plays normally, scores, etc. until at some point the combination of switches hit stops the flippers from working. Usually related to the 7 bank drop targets, but of course when I reboot, start and manually drop them all it keeps playing. sometimes when the flippers die and drain it kicks out another ball, sometimes that's it. sometimes, after the ball drains it slowly increments the score 100pts at a time until you turn it off. Now, I can't get the test switch to enter audit mode. I also notice stuff like if I hit the rollovers at the top lanes, the closest pop bumper fires.
I'm ready to go after switches but I'll need to rig a temp test switch in at the mpu or something, since the coin door area is obviously a problem, and I can't reliably get to the test mode. Any tests/checks of switches that can be done without being in the switch test mode?
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I don't have any tech help, but I thought it was funny that the Sharp Shooter on the bg looks like Roger Sharpe.
Coincidence?
Looks like a great game, have a blast!
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it is a pic of roger sharpe, he was the game designer. I figured out its the lowest pop bumper that kills the flippers when it fires the first time. changing out diodes checking shorts on that then on with progress.
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Agree. The sounds are for ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- too, except the horse hooves on the spinner. If I had any art talent at all I would consider re-arting this thing.
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I've been told those women are in 'adoration pose'.
Hmm... looks like I've found another synonym for fellatio.
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Haven't worked on a Gameplan pinball for years, but you might see if the switch matrix control uses transistors for the drive. If it does, you might change them all, as they're dirt cheap. I used to run into leaky ones, but I dont remember if it was on Game Plan.
Good Luck,
Charlie-Wiz
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It's got a new MPU board from echo lake so I know its harness/playfield related. My next step is to install a temp coin door test switch since it's on the return that's shorted, making troubleshooting the rest of the switches a pain.
I just got a Mystic that works except for the sound card and 1 display so I'm sidetracked on SS right now while soldering on that. Roger's gonna have to wait a little longer for his adulation from the ladies. Cap kit for the mystic soundboard came today as a matter of fact.
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Ok, sharpshooter is kicking ---my bottom---. I have it running and playing by disconnecting the grounds to several problem switches. Anytime it hit these switches it would either kill the flippers/end the game or enter the test switch audits. they are not on the same return (1 switch from a drop target, one rollover, and one pop bumper).
So it will start a game, play, end, take credits, etc. However, there are still many issues besides the aforementioned switches. For example, one of the pop bumpers resets the score to zero every time it's hit. one switch is advancing the credits because its always got 50 credits (the max allowed) on it. the rollover lanes at the top set off the adjacent pop bumper. (likely these share a return).
I have tested all the related switch and coil diodes and haven't found one bad one. I've even gone ahead and replaced some, but the ones I take off test fine.
I know the switches are not always closed because no problem until they're hit. they're leaf switches, obviously and I can confirm make or break visually and with a meter.
I have not been able to find a black/white/ground strap that was not a good ground.
Since the coin door runs to a connector, I was able to test all that and tone it out to the connector and that's all fine.
I understand how a switch matrix works. I just don't know the next step in troubleshooting. My logic breaks down when I can't find something broken to replace (why I like working on boards I guess). The first switch on the list of switches in the switch test diagnostic is supposed to be # 010, but it shows 000, not associated with any switch. if i manually close switches it will usually but not always show the proper number on the display.
Any input or help would be majorly appreciated. :badmood:
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Ding ding ding - I did find a lamp wire that had pulled loose from a pop bumper and was laying against the frame of the bumper - after I disconnected it's switch. I'll reconnect both and see if that fixes that.
Will spend some time this weekend going through the grounds with a fine toothed comb. Thanks.
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OK, PBJ, got back to Roger and the girls today for a while. I rebuilt some connectors. I wiped off some coil dust while looking around the problem switches. came to the realization while looking at the problem switches' wire colors that all the wires are white and are all on Strobe 4.
Now that I know one wire/strobe is the problem, what should I do? I see two options
1. unloom the wire to check it out better/separate it from what ever it's grounding to to conflict with the test switch.
2. possibly just re-run the wires to these 8 switches and back to the connector, and abandon the f'd up wire.
or 3. PBJ's magic pinball genius solution that will take less than 5 minutes to do.
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The MPU is new so nothing to reflow. connectors are redone with new molex and housings (didn't have pins for the funky housings they used)
I'm going to disassemble all the switch stacks and double check them, and cut a few zip ties at the back of the cabinets. Then, if no dice, rewire strobe 4. I'm ready to know this thing works so I can get on with the spruce up and get the thing out of my workshop into the game room. I've got another kayak project to start and I need to get this thing out of the way.
I drew the vector stencil art in coreldraw (same as AI) if you want it I'll email it to you.
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argh- completely rewired the strobe line all the way from one end to the other and it didn't work. no change or improvement in behavior.
:badmood:
I'm going to jump the pins on the MPU to rule that out. I'm going to be cheesed off if either it's defective or, (more likely scenario) i broke it. If the MPU's good i'm going to take it apart, do the fix up work and freaking figure it out later.
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No, I ran them all and then tested them all like a dumbass. the problems exist on all switches even when individual switches are disconnected. I'm going to jump the pins tonight and see what happens. I know the seller will stand behind the board if it's not working, or repair it if the game jacked it up somehow. I did confirm the power was all within spec at the test points before I plugged it in. Seller has offered to help troubleshoot as well. No concern there.
My family's going to be out of town some next week which means I'm kicking this resto into high gear - no problem sanding, cussing and spitting late into the night! So even if I can't get this nailed by then it's coming apart.
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OK, I plugged the switch harness into the MPU. powered up, started a game. Unplugged the switch connector. Put a jumper wire on the pin for strobe 4. set the other end of the jumper up with a 4004 diode. If I touch the column pins same behavior as with the playfield connected-kicked into self test.
Am I missing something or is this MPU not working right?
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I sent the board back to the mfgr to see if they can figure out what I did with it. In the meantime, with apologies to Chris Hudgins:
Roger Takes the Girls to the Low End Pins Beauty Shop
The Bureau of Wood Adjustment has been home to the sharpshooter for 6 months now. Frankly, I need to kick it upstairs to the gameroom but it's not ready for prime time. Rog and gang spent some years in a storage shed before they came to me. So, I've temporarily renamed the shop Low End Pins and am doing a somewhat quick and dirty refresh on this thing.
Tore into it this weekend:
Took a bunch of pictures and started taking everything apart. Cleaned out the cabinet and sanded the bare wood surfaces with a HF knockoff of a fein multimaster. Worked well. Here's the cleaned out cabinet ready for exterior strip and respray. I redrew the artwork and will get it printed on large format paper for re-stenciling.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gA7-qhNfoHk/T_Htr0AxcCI/AAAAAAAABM0/kZTLAysbki4/s800/Cleaned%2520out%2520Cab.jpg)
The plastics are decent - the clear one over the rollover star lane is yellowed, hopefully some of that will polish off. the small clear boomerang one is broken but i'll make a replacement.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1gLfp8n3vv4/T_HttQaJlZI/AAAAAAAABNE/Bo9p9cjHr30/s800/Plastics%2520and%2520rails.jpg)
Hopefully I can remember where this stuff goes back. I took a bunch of pictures at various stages. I took everything off the top but just the solenoid devices off the bottom. I have a buffing wheel but not a tumbler so I'll just polish the heads of the screws with that.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kqPjVAqYWgM/T_HtsiWk8jI/AAAAAAAABM8/EZPcIRlnK0g/s800/Playfield%2520parts.jpg)
The PF was dirty, to say the least. here's the cowboy area before:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ebQ2dBk-88w/T_HtuHGqphI/AAAAAAAABNM/bPoYbjLO-S0/s800/Dirty%2520cowboy.jpg)
Heres the same area after a lot of ME scrubbing. The ball swirls are not completely gone, but they're greatly reduced, especially in the yellow background areas where they show the worst. Any more ME would have yielded too much paint loss.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gjbX2nTfPwc/T_HtvZsgk9I/AAAAAAAABNU/wKR4P8GnDd4/s800/Cleaned%2520up%2520Cowboy.jpg)
I ended up going over all the yellow areas with ME, otherwise there were transitions as seen in this pic. I'm leaving 2 pieces of mylar in place - they are very well stuck down. The pop bumper rings came right off.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tsxm5MiPPhI/T_Htwn_XR_I/AAAAAAAABNc/iPvL1TI5Sz0/s800/ME%2527d%2520playfield%2520area.jpg)
I built a quick rotisserie out of scraps from the shop which has been great to use.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9l-EotW-rbI/T_Htxd6XiOI/AAAAAAAABNk/4_6DJFXWIjQ/s800/Low%2520End%2520Rotisserie.jpg)
Up next, some Low End touch up painting.
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I have a scroll saw that loves to cut plastics. My playfield has no plastics. If someone were to scan the plastics and send me shapes I could probably get a couple of blank sets cut.
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Chad, I will do the scans and give a link to them, no problem. PBJ, on the boomerang, I'll make a wood template and cut a few out with a router, it should be identical to the original. I'll get your addy when I do it and send one your way.
I'll set up a link to the .ai files for the cabinet stencils as well. They're 97% done, i just want to go back and make sure the first work i did is consistent with the tracing at the end. I know I got faster, I think I got better. The vectors are overlaid over hi res pics of my best cabinet side, so you can judge for yourself.
I'm going to check with pinballpal.com and see if maybe they would consider trading the artwork for credit towards a set of cut stencils. If they don't go for it I'll probably double cut each stencil on bond paper and then use remount spray to stick them on. It will be sharper than the original work which has fuzzy sprayed edges.
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Guess it's time to get out the exacto knife then.
On the plastics: I scanned one of the plastics at 1200 dpi. looks nice but takes up 38 MB. how big do these files have to be to be printed successfully later?
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Heres a 38 MB Winchester for ChadTower. let me know if this works- 1200 dpi. I can run the rest this weekend. Smaller would be easier for me if it works for you. Maybe the DPI will help offset that it's out of focus due to being back printed.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/aemvn2pxgzuq6w2/drop%20target%20plastic.jpg (https://www.dropbox.com/s/aemvn2pxgzuq6w2/drop%20target%20plastic.jpg)
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Heh, since I'm only cutting blank plastics, I don't need DPI. It can be solid black for the time being. It's easier for folks to print their own artwork to adhere because my printer isn't really suited for it. Obviously I'd need artwork for making my own later. I am thinking 600dpi should be just fine but we could get away with 300 DPI depending on whether we want to trace them or just clean them up in Photoshop.
Let me know which plastics could use some protectors (other than the obvious slingshots) and I can cut some of those too.
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I'll do 600 dpi and you'll be set for just the shape or artwork too if you want it.
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I'll do 600 dpi and you'll be set for just the shape or artwork too if you want it.
That should work. 600dpi should be more than enough for simple line art.
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Here's a quick sample of of the stencil redraw I did. The vector drawing was done full size over the distortion corrected cab photo. The pics is flipped. This is the right side of the cab, which was by far the better of the two. The yellow paint was thick enough that I could follow the edges of it even when overlaid by the black. The long thin lines on the barrel will be difficult for the black stencil since I'm probably going to have to use paper. I may need to leave one or two bridges across there and then touch them up after the stencil is off.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jjjIgfZTjRY/T_xaovMlTQI/AAAAAAAABN4/iMq3u-erFr4/s800/Original%2520cabinet%2520art%2520sample.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qkeFK4ltrxM/T_xaplUQY2I/AAAAAAAABOA/4RUo4gr27cA/s800/Cabinet%2520Stencil%2520Redraw%2520samplet.JPG)
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PBJ - .ai files are yours when you're ready.
CT- I didn't get to the plastics scans this weekend but haven't forgotten.
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CT- I didn't get to the plastics scans this weekend but haven't forgotten.
No worries. This time of year I have no idea when I could get to the task anyway.
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Touchups- I feel decent about the touchup effort. Color matching was easy and fun. about half the colors were nailed out of the bottle. the rest I mixed on a clear acrylic scrap "palette" and painted immediately. Some areas really needed to be airbrushed (large areas of solid color.) I'll look at getting a critter or something similar if I do this on a non Low End Pins game. The keylines look so much better.
I did not have any luck filling the gaps around the inserts with liquid superglue. It was so messy looking I was afraid to keep doing it. I've just filled them with clear, hopefully it works.
I sprayed 2 light coats and then a very wet coat with varathane - I've used 1 can exactly so far. No sanding so far.
Here's a pic of some of the inserts that I just filled.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EovNtBcRh9c/T_34yXNqM2I/AAAAAAAABO4/QIcR6OC-ApM/s640/2012-07-11%252018.00.17.jpg)
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That's good stuff. Wish I had the spare time to start in on some of that type of work.
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You did, of course, knock out all the inserts and put them back in with fresh woodglue.....right?
The Low End Pins shop does not endorse such thorough and high-falutin' craftsmanship!
Actually the inserts weren't below the level of the pf, they were just severely cupped. The red inserts still had sharp and shooter letters screened on them in good shape so I skipped the removing/sanding/flattening and filled instead. I checked them all and none were loose. I actually filled them to overflowing so the gaps around the inserts would be filled as well. Hopefully things will come out ok . . . the pinball deities definitely have a soft spot for the ladies!
Something about this area - every old machine around here has cupped inserts bigtime. I don't know if this is just gameplan or a certain playfield manufacturer, but the insert holes on this PF are stepped. You can look through the inserts and tell that the hole on the bottom of the PF is smaller than the top. so Hopefully nothing will sink in the future. I've seen most playfields have just a ridge in the middle of the plywood.
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Only thing I dislike about Sharpshooter is that backglass. I've been told those women are in 'adoration pose'.
I slapped a Sharpshooter 2 backglass in mine - absolutely no regrets.
Jennifer falls to the ground and throws herself at PBJ....Please, Please, put the original backglass back in, I beg of you!
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Only thing I dislike about Sharpshooter is that backglass. I've been told those women are in 'adoration pose'.
I slapped a Sharpshooter 2 backglass in mine - absolutely no regrets.
Jennifer falls to the ground and throws herself at PBJ....Please, Please, put the original backglass back in, I beg of you!
Sorry, Jennifer. I don't think he has the original backglass.
I paid $50 for mine, but it was missing a lockdown bar and a backglass.... and the MPU was dead... and all the fuses and bulbs had been poached...
Scott
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Hey, Roger and Young Roger made the cover of Pinball Magazine*
http://www.pinball-magazine.com/?p=370 (http://www.pinball-magazine.com/?p=370)
From the preview I see they have a graphic explaining which of Roger's friends and relatives are depicted on the SS backglass. No more comments about the Ladies, please -- Looks like at least one of them was/is somebody's lovely wife.
*The LowEndPin Man (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=121419.0) does not purchase periodicals. He peruses them at the public library from time to time.
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Top rail ball gate or flap? small red diamond lane divider? pearly white nylon acorn nuts? all my solenoid assemblies are pretty nice. If you have any of these I'm happy to pony up.
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Appreciate you looking. I've pretty much got everything. somebody on rgp asked so I'm planning on finally finishing the plastics scans and making some boomerangs this weekend. I've been distracted with the Tommy but I went down and sanded the PF in prep for hopefully the last coat of clear. I had to go back to the superglue for the canyons around the inserts. Filling them with varathene- it either sank in or never cured properly so it dug out during sanding even after a week or two of cure.
I sanded all the black out of the shooter lane and it was so light I had to go back and stain the wood to match the rest of the PF. Hopefully that turns out.
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Had a bit of a setback on the clearcoat. I did some more aggressive sanding to try to level out a few areas. Then I put a heavy coat of Varathane on. Upon drying, I found that I had missed some spots sanding wise and also had cleared over some random sanding scratches that were highlighted by the new clear.
I was somewhat down on the project and walked away for a while. Even in that state I could call it done and these things wouldn't be noticed by 99% of players, the PF is way better than when i got it. I decided I wanted to redo it. I went and got a nice bosch random orbit sander - my old one was crapped out and I had been sanding everything with a quarter sheet finish sander so far. The ROS with 220 did a great job of cutting down all the nasty stuff. I was fortunate in that I didn't sand through the clear into any touchups except a few late black spots that I can recreate in a minute or two. I'm glad I went backwards at this point. Looking forward to sanding back up to 600 and laying another coat-probably the last. The heat's broken a little around here so hopefully more progress soon.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ccem5n5cmXA/UDkU9zhhTFI/AAAAAAAABSE/jm4foXzKTnQ/s800/2012-08-25%252013.47.04.jpg)
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Plastic scans are available. PM me your email if you want them. off to the shop to see about a boomerang. That is all.
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The low end pin man must sometimes fabricate a part from cobwebs, carpet remnants and compacted sawdust found in the corners of the shop. Case in point: The always busted arch shaped plastic guide for the rollover switch lane on Sharpshooter. Since this is a Low End demand item and is sometimes used as an obscure form of currency in certain pinball backwaters, decided to mint a few of them.
Scanned the original and went to CorelDraw (no fancy boy AI for the LEP man) and extrapolated the missing area. A complete boomerang hasn't been sighted since 1982 or so, so I dare you to prove me wrong. I made it a little bit longer than it probably was so it can be sanded to size if adjustment is needed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fMF6fIilYyE/UDptt2HhQEI/AAAAAAAABTU/OfPxuGwj7qA/s640/Pattern%2520for%2520Rollover%2520Guide%2520.JPG)
Made a wood pattern from the paper. Rough cut on the bandsaw then sanded to the line.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5yQyIEVzACQ/UDpsWjYSDyI/AAAAAAAABSs/hhEWNa3UFX4/s640/2012-08-25%252017.00.40.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kpDa95JI038/UDpsTQ6MqoI/AAAAAAAABSc/VTWhW5FrcQk/s640/2012-08-25%252017.07.45.jpg)
Attached the wood pattern to a board and set it up to allow clamping of the plexi off to the side. no room to clamp the workpiece itself on this small part. that liquid on the piece is the sweat off the LEP Man's brow. Don't worry, I cleaned these with naptha.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rFdzWIvTEoA/UDpsTWKJwgI/AAAAAAAABSg/7r3fiD_LfA4/s640/2012-08-26%252012.37.36.jpg)
Rough Routed piece. Had to carefully select the last part routed since it is no longer clamped during the final cut.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Yx2kMnQBsmw/UDpsZjKZHiI/AAAAAAAABS0/_0M6wSRgt_E/s640/2012-08-26%252012.38.35.jpg)
After sanding the edges up to 800 grit, laying out and drilling the holes with a sharp bit, these are ready to go.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X9hZeuUBs-k/UDpsa4I-fRI/AAAAAAAABS8/m3QNNELASsw/s640/2012-08-26%252013.42.03.jpg)
One is for me, One's promised to PBJ, one's for anyone who needs it. If you want to best match the original you can add a decal for the part number and breath 32 years of nicotine on it.
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The LEP man needs a 3D printer. ;)
Good work though!
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You could cut one of those in 60 seconds, without the template, with a scroll saw.
I love my scroll saw. :)
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The LEP man needs a 3D printer. ;)
Good work though!
The LEP man does not turn down donations of High End Tools.
I'll trade you a package of fresh flour tortillas. Sound good?
Not necessary- just pm me your address and I'll put a stamp on it.
You could cut one of those in 60 seconds, without the template, with a scroll saw.
I love my scroll saw. :)
The actual cutting is about 60 seconds with the router. The template gives a better result when the goal is making consistent multiples. It minimizes the sanding as well- you only have to finish the edge rather than sanding each individual piece to the line. I had a nice scrollsaw in the Bureau of Wood Adjustment for a few years, but I just didn't use it enough to justify the space required. Also, this is a simple piece but it was also practice for the more complex Tommy VUK plastics I'm getting ready to run. I doubt the scrollsaw would help with the small protrusions on that plastic . :cheers:
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I'll trade you a package of fresh flour tortillas. Sound good?
Not necessary- just pm me your address and I'll put a stamp on it.
They're San Antonio tortillas, fool. You take them when offered.
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The actual cutting is about 60 seconds with the router.
'Actual cutting' is always 60 seconds. It's that 2 hours of prep time that'll get you.
The scroll saw is nice to have around when working on pins specifically for cutting plastics.
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I'll see your Puro San Antonio tortillas, and raise you a pulled pork sandwich from Speedy's and a dozen Krispy Kreme doughnuts picked up 10 minutes before the hot light goes out. Don't tell me about the food ;D :laugh2:. I sincerely appreciate PBJ's offer but remember, there's damn near as much Mex and SA heritage around NC these days as there is in TX.
My brother lived in Austin for a while. Good stuff to eat down TX way fo sho.
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@ChadTower -
It's just not the method I would pick. I'm an avowed router maniac. We'll just have to disagree. It's all good. :cheers:
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You are most welcome. Already broke my Tommy VUK plastic - due to the vuk rather than PF shots as I suspected. Its a design flaw- it needs more clearance on the left inside of the slot so the ball doesn't bash it on the way up. on the right side it hits the habitrail metal rather than the plastic. More to come on that one.
Sprayed either the last or 2nd to last CC on Roger- haven't decided yet. I've got a RO polisher so I might knock down a few nibs with high grit paper and try polishing, if it sucks I can always scuff it and spray one more.
I stripped the cabinet and made a deal for a stencil from Brian at Gamestencils.com based on my redraw. Will def. post up on how that goes- my first stencil job. Need to experiment and find a good wire brush for the webbing.
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ROGER HOOKED UP WITH A COUPLE OF STRIPPERS!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-q_E0Jk39x-w/UFuoRUNrq6I/AAAAAAAABWI/ei8Ji1NH6TQ/s640/2012-09-20%252018.16.17.jpg)
>:D >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D
Here's what he looked like after they returned him to the garage and I patched him up with some primer and body filler. Got the stencils, got the red paint, just gotta get on with it.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_Uiqzj8MA-Y/UFuoQbsQFQI/AAAAAAAABWA/CiP9Te92fMo/s640/2012-09-20%252018.16.32.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qBdRfQbS-rc/UFuoX8yX6WI/AAAAAAAABWY/d-4JauH-xgw/s640/2012-09-20%252018.16.48.jpg)