Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: AE35 on October 12, 2011, 04:14:30 pm
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Hi all!
I'm just about ready to install my new chassis, but I'm unsure
what pins are what. Here's two pictures:
Any advice would be very welcome:)
(http://www.1080p.dk/tubetemp.JPG)
(http://www.1080p.dk/chassistemp.JPG)
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on a yoke header the horizontal has always a slightly greater space between the two pins,therefore the pins marked "H" are for the horizontal yoke connection-this would be logically the 3.2ohms and the vertical 13.9 ohms
those reading are what you would expect to see on a low impedence 15khz monitor yoke
did the chassis not come with instructions?
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Hi! No, I just picked up the chassis from a friend.
So, that means that the blue/red wire go to the yoke pins farthest from each other, and the
green/yellow go to the middle....which seems opposite what I usually see...like this
http://www.8liners.com/datatech/yoke02.jpg (http://www.8liners.com/datatech/yoke02.jpg)
However, this is a 20" TV tube, with completely different wire colors, so I couldn't see the color
scheme before disconnecting them :)
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yoke plugs are generally red/blue-horizontal and green/yellow- vertical
trouble is people adapt and manufacturers sometimes do their own thing(hantarex)
never go by just colour of wire or you could end up with a toasted chassis or yoke
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Hi! Thanks!
Here's a picture of the original wires:
Any thoughts?
(http://www.1080p.dk/wiretemp.JPG)
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thats a standard tv me thinks not a monitor-you can see the two pairs red/yellow and blue/grey?
so red/yellow would have been horizontal and blue/grey vertical
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Ok, I just tried turning it on....all I have is a horizontal line through the image....sooo vertical hold dead?
Thanks!
Nicholas
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no vertical scan more like-read at the plug with a meter
what chassis is it?
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What plug should I read at?
It's a Hua Wey
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better show me how you have it wired up mate-always read at the connector that plugs onto the board btw
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Hi Grantspain!
Here's a picture(as link, it's a little large)
http://www.1080p.dk/setuptemp.JPG (http://www.1080p.dk/setuptemp.JPG)
Thanks!
Nicholas
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looks ok wiring wise-are you sure those centre 2 pin were the ones the original wires came off,there looks like 8 pins on that yoke in total
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Hi!
Nope, only the four:
(http://www.1080p.dk/yoke2temp.JPG)
Thanks!
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no reason that should not work unless chassis is faulty or yoke not connected correctly-the yoke is reading correct so all i can imagine is that the chassis is faulty
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Thanks!
Do you have any idea what could be wrong ? Just a horizontal line
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got a photo of the collapse?
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Hi!
I just disconnected the chassis to take some pictures. I'll get a picture when I reconnect it! ( it's just a horizontal single line)
Could you tell me what these transistors(and one IC) do? I'm guessing(!) that the D1431 is the HOT, and the IC
is several things, maybe also being the vertical IC. I thought that the vertical IC would always be mounted to
a heat sink, though. I've included number of legs, to specify what is transistors and what is ICs.
(http://www.1080p.dk/chassiscomptemp.JPG)
(http://www.1080p.dk/chassiscomptemp2.JPG)
Thanks!
Nicholas
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the 2sc4732 and 2sd1431 are horizontal deflection,ha11423 is video decoder
the 2sa940 is concerned with vertical deflection
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Great thanks! :) So which of them could cause this(here's the picture of the line,
the camera makes it look less 'clean')
(http://www.1080p.dk/crtlinetemp.JPG)
Thanks for your help!
Nicholas
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well i was kinda expecting a tda1675 to present itself,any chance of more photos of the chassis?
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that look's like a straight push-pull vert drive output
the ha handles all of the pre-drive work
the line in the middle ? is a cap out
look for 1mf or .47mf tantaluimun
or a bipolar cap 4.7mf and up
in the vert def part
or a bad drive resister,leaky output tran's
but u are in the right part
ed
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Hi, here's two pictures of the chassis:
http://www.1080p.dk/chassistemp5.JPG (http://www.1080p.dk/chassistemp5.JPG)
http://www.1080p.dk/chassistemp6.JPG (http://www.1080p.dk/chassistemp6.JPG)
Ed, what does the push-pull output mean?
Thanks!
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that is the really old system of vertical deflection-using 2 transistors
pretty sure its the 2sc2073 and the 2sa940
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Ok, they'll be here(A940 and C2073) within a few days, I'll change both and hope for the best ;D
If those two went out, I wonder what else would have gone out?
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trouble is not knowing if the chassis worked in the first place-or even the yoke
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The yoke should work fine, the CRT was taken from a working TV..
Here's the pinout from the HA11423. If it isn't the C2073 or A940, maybe(?) it could be
this?
Pin No. Function Voltage
1. Vertical driver (50Hz) 1.1
2. Vertical output feedback 3.8
3. Vertical oscillator frequency determining capacitor(50Hz) 6.6
4. Vertical oscillator feedback(50Hz) 3.8
5. Supply voltage for vertical oscillator 11.2
6. Vertical hold control 4.5
7. Vertical sync input(50Hz) 4.5
8. Sync output 1
9. Sync separator biasing 5.7
10. Copmposite video signal input 6
11. Flyback pulse input for phase detector 3.6
12. Phase detector voltage output 6.7
13. Horizontal oscillator(50Hz) 6.7
14. Positive(+Ve)sipply voltage 12.6
15. Horizontal drive output 0.8
16. Hold down input 0
17. Vertical blanking pulse output(50Hz) 0.1
18 Ground (-Ve)supply voltage 0
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could be,i would love to see a schematic for your chassis though
i would check for any broken tracks or bad soldering,those cheap chinese chassis are well know for poor production quality
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could be,i would love to see a schematic for your chassis though
i would check for any broken tracks or bad soldering,those cheap chinese chassis are well know for poor production quality
yeah this is certainly an interesting chassis. i mean they didn't even put the PTC for a degauss coil.. or a header for it for that fact.
...and that main power supply?!... wooo boy. i've seen some doodies in my days but this.. i'm having a hard time figuring it out... voltage goes in, gets rectified and then gets divided by 6 resistors? soooo... no switch mode power supply then??? but a PWM transistor setup for what i'm guessing is B+ adjustment!? alighty... perhaps there is something up with your resistors there. maybe the power supplied to your vert IC via on of those resistors is bad. best way to test is ground your voltmeter lead and probe the "exit" side of the resistors. i'd imagine you'll have something around 6 volts on one, something around 12 or 15 volts on another, and something in the 50 volts range on yet another... hard to tell without a schematic
where are you living? is this being fed 120 or 220 volts?
how much was this chassis, and is it possible to return it and get your money back?!
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just what it sound's like
push 1 side of the wave pull the other
yes they are divder resister's
u have 3 in-front of the vert out trans
chk them first
also chk trans for leak
ed
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Yes, this chassis is very cheaply produced. The fuse holders almost breaks off when removing the fuse.
The soldering underneath it is very shoddy in many places, with the classic blob/ball of solder on some
legs. Even my wife said that she thought it looked extremely cheap, and not like a real board :D
The chassis is on 110V(I live in 220V(Denmark), though)
Hey, it just occurs to me, doesn't it look a lot like the 8liner chassis?? (ok, it says 'a' chassis)
http://www.8liners.com/datatech/chassis.jpg (http://www.8liners.com/datatech/chassis.jpg)
Thanks, ed, I'll check those
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Ed, those resistors what wattage should they be if I need to replace them?
And, the zener diodes what would you think their value would be?
Thanks guys!
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...as a side-note, why are there two 6A fuses on the board?? ???
Thanks!
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Ed, those resistors what wattage should they be if I need to replace them?
those look to be about 6 watt flameproof ones. once you hit 10 watts they go to the cement block type.
And, the zener diodes what would you think their value would be?
if you pull them out they should have something teeny tiny printed on them. a schematic would say.. but well.. you know.
...as a side-note, why are there two 6A fuses on the board?? ???
it's quite common on EU/china/german made electrical products to fuse both sides of the line (live/neutral)for extra protection.
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Thanks a lot! I really appreciate it!
I'll get back when I've changed the A940 etc :)
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Ok, I changed the A940, the HA11423. When I turned the chassis on, all I got was
a half horizontal(!) line, and then slowly a 'squeeee' sound was getting louder and
louder, until I shut the chassis off. Now the C4742 was VERY hot, so I changed that
and the same thing happened again.
Salvage what I can and set fire to the chassis? or what do you think?
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out of interest did you read the inductance of the yoke?
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Hi!
No, how should I do that?
Thanks!! :)
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I'm going to start over, 'll find another tube!!
Thanks for your help!!
:)
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Ok, I've got another tube...now the picture is pretty compressed, so something is
wrong with the vertical. But no total vertical collapse anymore! Also, the picture
is just craziness within the bar. I have the C2073 en route, so maybe that will help
when that get's changed.
Still, I have the increasing whining noise.
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lilshawn, I measured the voltages on the 'out' side of the resistors....I get 12.7V , 59V , 138V , 8.2V , 7.6V
Just found out that the C2073 seem to get very hot
Thanks!
Nicholas