The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: pomme on August 26, 2011, 02:50:04 pm
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I am in the process of setting up MAME on an old arcade cabinet using a Sanyo EZ20 monitor. For some reason, when I make the swap to the correct non-inverted output on the inversion board, I get a black screen.
If I unplug the power to the inversion board I loose the signal. I get a good, albeit negative, image when running through the normal inverted output, or when bypassing the inversion board altogether.
My current workaround is to run Powerstrip to invert the colors in windows - but this is annoying - mainly because the edges of the screen have a white color, instead of black.. shown here: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/photo1tnt.jpg/ (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/photo1tnt.jpg/)
I tried another inversion board off of another sanyo ez20 with the same results. I also tried powering the inversion board with the 12v from the PC and again got the same results.
Am I missing something here? Is there some other adjustment I have to make on the monitor after swapping to the non-inverted mode?
Thanks
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Horizontal width coil seems to be not working.. I dont know.. first time adjusting one.. it doesn't seem to make any difference. Also, this bumps the edges of the games right up to the sides of the screen, which isn't perfect for me.. not to mention games of varying brightness show more/less of the white area, so there is no single setting that will fix it.
I could adjust the size of the games to fit, but I'd really like to run them in their native resolutions. If I can't get it to work like that I'll probably throw my hands up and toss an LCD in there and save myself the headaches.
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Electrical tape over the edges of the screen?
Ha! I hear you dude.
I've run MAME on a Sanyo 20EZ without issue. I think you've got the connection to your inverter board wired incorrectly, to be honest.
Really? Even though it works fine on the board going through the nintendo/inverted output?
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Figured it out! It turns out the sub-brightness needs to be potted up a bit to get a picture once you switch to the inverted out on the board.
Yay.