Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: MKFan4Life on January 24, 2011, 11:37:45 pm
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Checking out a WG K7000 series chassis for adidas1984x who bought it complete with a tube, but it had a crushed remote board. Since I have heard you shouldn't try to power one on with a remote board removed, I figured it would be a bad idea also to do it with one as bad as his was (all pots were destroyed!). So he sent it to me to check on one of my tubes (while he waits on Bob Roberts to ship him a replacement) since I had a K7000 series remote board I could swap to it for testing.
Well, after reflowing some bad joints and checking over the chassis, I just don't know what the black box in the pic is for. Can you guys enlighten me? It has a heavy gauge red wire going to the anode cap (along with wire from flyback) and a lighter gauge black wire from the black box to the metal plate the HOT's heat is dissipated to. Here it is:
Unknown part:
(http://i368.photobucket.com/albums/oo124/TorreyG/Adidas1984X_K7000%20Chassis/DSCN9020small.jpg)
His damaged remote board...ARGH!!!
(http://i368.photobucket.com/albums/oo124/TorreyG/Adidas1984X_K7000%20Chassis/2011-01-15_16-39-41_925small.jpg)
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i've never seen that in my life before... does it just have the 2 wires or does it have a grounding tab that connects when you screw it down someplace? of course google doesn't turn up anything, although the # is similar to the flyback# for the WG... 046X0560-003
maybe it's dumping voltage from the anode... maybe an automatic tube discharger? maybe it's a voltage doubler... :dunno
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I think you're right about the discharger:
Next will be making new safety bleeder boxes to spec for some of the larger screen rasters found on 7600 39" & some u5000's.. While I know the demand for those will be short it will be settling to know they will soon be avail.
wells part # 046x0560-003
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That black box is pretty much a large capacitor with a grounding lead.
Helps to quickly bleed off excess HV when the screen flashes, namely from gun games and such.
Replacement flybacks will not have those.
I have never had any trouble running gun games without one, but that seems to be what those were most commonly found in. (as far as I have ever seen)
Might be other games that have some form of extreme "flashing" that goes on, dunno.
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Dont worry, Hes getting a fixed remote board... I got the board right now, waiting on parts...
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Thanks for the info guys.
lilshawn, there is only two mounting spots made from the plastic on the casing. Not sure exactly where this mounted on his monitor as it was loose as pictured when it shipped to me, but definitely no grounding tabs. Just the two wires pictured.
cotmm68030, very similar part #, but the funny thing is, this came from a much smaller 25" tube supposedly. Not a large one like the 39" model in your quoted text. Guess they made them for smaller ones too.
Kevin, thanks for the identification. I don't think he's putting this back into a gun game, although we just got a different chassis going for his Area 51 cab. He wants to do a flyback and cap-kit install, but i am not sure I have the time for it at the moment. Just trying to see if it works as is with a good remote board. Somebody has already installed a few new caps, but not a complete kit it appears.
WhereEaglesDare, oh, I didn't know he was getting the old one fixed by you. He told me he ordered a complete remote board from Bob Roberts? I saw Bob had a complete pot replacement kit for the remote circuit board for $12, but guess he wants a backup.
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Well hell if that is the case I'll just paypal him the 12 bucks and be done with it
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lilshawn, there is only two mounting spots made from the plastic on the casing. Not sure exactly where this mounted on his monitor as it was loose as pictured when it shipped to me, but definitely no grounding tabs. Just the two wires pictured.
It typically mounts to the frame rail just above the flyback.
That smaller black wire is the grounding lead, it typically just gets tucked under one of the screws that mount the block to the frame.
Can't get to one of mine right now, so I just nabbed a pic of the net to kinda show you where it would be mounted.
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Well hell if that is the case I'll just paypal him the 12 bucks and be done with it
Well, the $12 kit has 6 pots to solder back into a remote board, but he claims on his site that he occasionally comes across K7000 remote boards and rebuilds and tests them to resell for $20 for the complete board. I THINK he told me he ordered a complete board from Bob, but I could have misunderstood, or he simply wants someone to rebuild the old one to have as a backup in the future.
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Chad at arcadecup.com sells brand new complete k7000 remote boards.
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Yea I contacted him and he never got back to me, but the Bob Roberts got back at me very quickly.
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Chad at arcadecup.com sells brand new complete k7000 remote boards.
You know the price, for future reference?
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P632/P802 Remote Board
$17.50
(+ shipping of course)
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P632/P802 Remote Board
$17.50
(+ shipping of course)
That's a very good price.
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Chad at arcadecup.com sells brand new complete k7000 remote boards.
You know the price, for future reference?
Bob has them for 15 plus 7 shipping.
Im getting Justin a complete one from Bob, should have it in a couple of days.
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Bob has them for 15 plus 7 shipping.
Im getting Justin a complete one from Bob, should have it in a couple of days.
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Cool. USPS site shows the chassis made it back to him today around 1pm. He should have it going when he gets the remote board then.
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Bob has them for 15 plus 7 shipping.
Im getting Justin a complete one from Bob, should have it in a couple of days.
Cool. USPS site shows the chassis made it back to him today around 1pm. He should have it going when he gets the remote board then.
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He shipped the chassis off to get recapped?
Hell If I knew he was going to do that I would have recapped it before I sold it to him.
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Bob has them for 15 plus 7 shipping.
Im getting Justin a complete one from Bob, should have it in a couple of days.
Cool. USPS site shows the chassis made it back to him today around 1pm. He should have it going when he gets the remote board then.
He shipped the chassis off to get recapped?
Hell If I knew he was going to do that I would have recapped it before I sold it to him.
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? Ok. Now I am getting confused here. You are the seller of the K7000 series chassis to Adidas? I didn't infer that from the posts in this thread. He just told me he bought a monitor from someone and sent me some pics of it 'cause we have dealt with each other in the past concerning another chassis I capped and installed a flyback into.
The remote board in the series of pics of the monitor had each pot damaged badly, so I told him to not power it on until he either got it repaired with all new pots, or got a replacement remote board. Then I told him I had a K7000 series chassis with the same remote board, and he asked if I'd test it for him with my remote board. He was glad to pay shipping both ways, and I tested it for him after making some minor solder joint repairs. It appeared to be working just fine, so, although he wanted to recap it and install a flyback, I didn't have time right now, and it was working very well IMHO, so I packed her up and shipped her back to him with no charge for anything besides the return shipping he reimbursed me for.
I think at the time he shipped it to me he just wanted to be sure it was working before investing anything in the remote board repairs or purchase, although the entire trip cost him about $20 here and back, which could have bought the remote board. Still awaiting his reply as to whether he got it all together and going yet.
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Since I have heard you shouldn't try to power one on with a remote board removed, I figured it would be a bad idea also to do it with one as bad as his was (all pots were destroyed!).
A little late on this, but two days ago I powered on a 25K7191 with the remote board disconnected. When it powered on, the monitor had a thick green horizontal stripe across the middle. Realizing the remote board wasn't plugged in, I powered it down and connected the remote. The monitor is just fine, there seems to be no ill effects from my blunder.
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Since I have heard you shouldn't try to power one on with a remote board removed, I figured it would be a bad idea also to do it with one as bad as his was (all pots were destroyed!).
A little late on this, but two days ago I powered on a 25K7191 with the remote board disconnected. When it powered on, the monitor had a thick green horizontal stripe across the middle. Realizing the remote board wasn't plugged in, I powered it down and connected the remote. The monitor is just fine, there seems to be no ill effects from my blunder.
I have read that it could either damage the chassis, or the chassis won't power on without it. I haven't been brave or careless enough yet to try it out... but just give me time... lol!
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Yea I sold it to him, told him it was a little dim when I used it last and may need to be recapped, I didnt know the board was broken, that is why I bought him a replacement.
He said he was gonna recap it himself.
Did you notice it was a little dim at all when you hooked it up?
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Yea I sold it to him, told him it was a little dim when I used it last and may need to be recapped, I didnt know the board was broken, that is why I bought him a replacement.
He said he was gonna recap it himself.
Did you notice it was a little dim at all when you hooked it up?
Not really dim to me. But the tube I have been using to test with has a very weak blue gun. The Red and Green seemed just fine, and I adjusted the Blue gain up high temporarily to make sure I had blue output, and it seemed as good as the tube could do. Here's the results:
Chassis Repair & Testing For Adidas1984x (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZC4mPwhyBOI#)
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Indeed...
It played fine with the lights off but with the lights on it got to be a lil hard to see.
I would have kept it but I put a 27" TV in my MAME cab and Im happy with it and I don't need it.
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Indeed...
It played fine with the lights off but with the lights on it got to be a lil hard to see.
I would have kept it but I put a 27" TV in my MAME cab and Im happy with it and I don't need it.
Tough to record arcade monitor output with the video mode on my little 3.2 Megapixel Nikon without dimming or turning off the lights. The monitor showed up just fine in a fully-lit room in person (of course with low blue emissions since my tube has a bad blue gun). Maybe the tube you had paired with the chassis had weak guns? I rejuvenated the tube I tested the chassis on a while back, but the blue gun didn't improve, although the other 2 guns did.