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Started by LightningBolt - Last post by LightningBolt

Iíve only purchased these by themselves and never experienced them new in an arcade machine direct from the factory. Are they exactly the same (when purchased from Happ vs a new Namco Pixel Bash machine for example)? I do know that the Pixel Bash machines use a Super Joystick 8-way restrictor plate but other than that.

Anyway they are so stiff theyíre very hard to use. And if you pull the ball top/shaft back and let go there is ZERO bounce. Like it IMMEDIATELY goes back to center and stays there. But the machines Iíve encountered with the same joystick seem looser. And they actually bounce when I let go of the shaft. Do you think the spring really just wears in and gets soft, or do arcade operators alter the spring?

Iíve cut off 2.5 whole rings from the spring and itís made it a lot softer/loose.

Started by Rocketeer2001 - Last post by lilshawn

just an FYI, a component can test fine at the low voltages used by a test machine, but fail when full B+ voltage is applied.

if your chassis is giving the old tick tick tick, it's the SMPS's way of telling you it's output overloaded and it's trying over and over to start up. (just in case the first time it was a large, empty capacitor that needed some more time to charge up.) but a shorted component (like a shorted capacitor or diode that is connected to ground) can also make the SMPS do this.

look at your schematic at everything connected to B+ and see what you can remove to "cut off" part of a circuit. often you can "cut" a circuit down into 3 or 4 separate sections or pieces... by removing resistors, inductors, transformers or diodes. if "cutting out" a section, then applying power results in the main SMPS firing up and not ticking, then the section you cut out has the fault. see attached for some examples. your specific application will vary.


use caution when removing components... you are only powering on the chassis long enough to see if the SMPS now has the short/overload removed from circuit. 1 or 2 seconds max. any longer and you risk blowing up more components as systems attempt to work without their support circuits.

Started by allenc - Last post by mahkeymike

yes they are different , the aurora the joystick is by itself , the button and the led's,  it has 3 cables,   I can trace it out from the pots on the joystick to the I/O pins and buttons,  I will do it if I cant find a cable

I highly doubt you will find anyone with a megatouch that has a joystick cable, let alone a Stand up fusion joystick cable to sell, or give away, but good luck.

Started by allenc - Last post by allenc

yes they are different , the aurora the joystick is by itself , the button and the led's,  it has 3 cables,   I can trace it out from the pots on the joystick to the I/O pins and buttons,  I will do it if I cant find a cable

Started by abispac - Last post by lilshawn

the red DI boxes are to interface regular "unbalanced" audio from a device like a TV or radio, convert it into a "balanced" signal that is immune to interference...  and sends it down the ethernet cable. at the other end, in the IO board, a circuit takes the balanced audio and sums the signals (eliminating the noise) turning it back into unbalanced audio.

there is a "blue" DI box that does the opposite (same as the IO board) converts the balanced signal back into an unbalanced signal that you can feed into a house system or receiver.

it's not terribly complicated. I use a similar DI box setup at home. my computer has a "red" DI box on it, it's patched into a pair of "blue" boxes (daisy chained together) which have their outputs feeding into 2 amps, one for my speakers, and the other for a subwoofer. the red DI box is powered through an adapter from my computer's power supply, so when the computer goes on, the boxes turn on.


since the virtuo amp natively takes a balanced signal, you can just feed the signal from a red DI box (which outputs a balanced signal anyway)

please note that this setup is not the same as the cheapo "RCA balun" using ethernet cable adapters you see all over the amazons, These devices have their uses... but you would likely introduce signal noise and degradation if they are not carefully run, even though they are described as being immune to noise and such. They are not. they simply run the audio signal as it comes out of your device through a small center tapped transformer (producing a + and - signal) and runs that down the cable. problem is, line level audio is often only about 1 volt... so it's not hard to introduce a half volt of noise by simply running near a power wire in your ceiling or wall... basically nuking 50% of your signal.

The touchtunes DI boxes convert the signal into a +11v and -11v signal (hence the need for a 12v power source to run them) so even if that same 0.5v AC ripple noise got in there, the sum circuit takes care of it... and even if it did squeak through... it would be ~4% of the overall signal. or about 0.04v of your 1 volt signal... basically inaudible. it's the best way to transport audio without having noise being introduced.

Started by Duffy - Last post by Zebidee

I looked in input devices and I see that under keyboard, itís just my wireless controller listed. My bluetooth keyboard is not there as an option. Strangely, I can type letters in the search box, but tab, esc, and enter do nothing.

I tried to reset the ini like you said, but having the same problem. Have to alt tab and click x to exit mame. The sounds get sped up while Iím doing that.

Edit: i tried a plug in keyboard too, no dice

I'd guess that it has something to do with your Bluetooth keyboard, proper recognition by windows/GM, conflicts in device manager. GM might not even be looking for a Bluetooth keyboard.

Bluetooth has always been a bit hit-and-miss. It is essentially a wireless standard, but implementation by manufacturers seems to be a variable, and you need both the sender and receiver to be good and interference minimal. Range is meant to be like 10m, but in practice can be less than 1m. Sometimes it works great, other times not.

Try the "plug in" keyboard (I assume you mean USB) again, but this time also remove the Bluetooth completely (turn it off) and reboot machine so that it re-allocates device IDs to everything. Then see what you get in GM.

I've been using these "2.4Ghz mini wireless keyboards" with my arcade machines are they are great. All the main online marketplaces have them. The only issue I've had is that my cabs have metal control panels which tend to block the signal, so sometimes have to move it up or down a little.

7   Everything Else / Re: So I've been building an ultralighton Yesterday at 08:34:11 pm

Started by danny_galaga - Last post by danny_galaga

8   Everything Else / Re: So I've been building an ultralighton Yesterday at 06:23:44 pm

Started by danny_galaga - Last post by pbj

Started by Duffy - Last post by Duffy

Thanks man!

No wonder you know how to do all this. Iím just happy I know what file explorer is lol. I hear even  thatís becoming  rarified knowledge.

Lol at being freaked out by a mouse 😂

Ok so Iím in General Settings > Input Assignments > User Interface, and there it shows:

  Show/hide menu. ..  tab not alt not right alt
  ..
  UI Cancel. ..             Esc

So that should work, but tab and esc still do nothing.

I looked in input devices and I see that under keyboard, itís just my wireless controller listed. My bluetooth keyboard is not there as an option. Strangely, I can type letters in the search box, but tab, esc, and enter do nothing.

I tried to reset the ini like you said, but having the same problem. Have to alt tab and click x to exit mame. The sounds get sped up while Iím doing that.

Edit: i tried a plug in keyboard too, no dice

10   Everything Else / Re: So I've been building an ultralighton Yesterday at 05:48:49 pm

Started by danny_galaga - Last post by danny_galaga

Well, it's down to paperwork now. Weight and balance logging is the next step.

I now haven't flown for 7 months in anything, and a number of YEARS in a tail dragger, so I'm going to do a refresher course. Not cheap of course...
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