Recent Posts

So far official groovymame 288 is not yet released. We will have to wait

Will there be a 0.288 release? I'm starting the process of a new build

Gotcha, well going to give it another try. Wish me luck , lol.

Seems likely you either got the polarity wrong, or it was way more than 12v. There is a chance too of course that actually, it was that monitors time to shuffle off this mortal coil

I'm restoring a Namco Point Blank Arcade Machine. Its the cabinet with a mirror.
This would also relate to anyone with Time Crisis Arcade.

I am needing 2 Light guns. Namco ran out of replacement guns years ago.

China came along and made a clone but its not compatible with Cabinets with a mirror. I am guessing this is because of the design of the sensor. I think they cloned the sensor from a much newer game.
Here's a copy of the disclaimer:


I ordered one and cracked it open.





Here is a photo of the connector on the Clone:


Arcade Spares sells the clone and it looks like it comes with an adapter. I just need to see if I can make or buy that adapter but I will still have the sensor issue.



Namco Plug


Grok says: (sadly it does not include the colours).
The light gun connector on the original Namco Point Blank (NB-1 hardware, 1994) is typically a 15-pin connector on the gun I/O or position/EMI board.
Standard Gun/Lamp Connector Pinout (J105 or equivalent on the I/O board, Solder Side):
Pin   Function   Notes
1   +24V   Power for solenoid (recoil)
2   +24V   Power for solenoid
3   +12V   -
4   +5V   -
5   +5V   -
6   Solenoid 1 (Recoil Gun 1)   Blowback / recoil output
7   Trigger 1   Gun 1 trigger switch input
8   GND   Ground
9   Sensor 1   Gun 1 light sensor / optic signal
10   Lamp 1   Gun 1 start / indicator lamp
11   Solenoid 2 (Recoil Gun 2)   Blowback / recoil output
12   Trigger 2   Gun 2 trigger switch input
13   GND   Ground
14   Sensor 2   Gun 2 light sensor / optic signal
15   Lamp 2   Gun 2 start / indicator lamp

UPDATE: Kevin Woolford from UKVAC has kindly sent me a photo of an adapter he made.


I believe the Named Gun uses a 24v Solenoid but I am not certain.

Perhaps the sensor needs to be re-designed and an adapter used and this clone will then be plug and play for Namco System NB-1 games?

Technical Questions

Has anyone already solved this and if so how?

Does anyone have the correct pinout for both guns?

Suggestions made to me already:

Convert the monitor to LCD run on mame and convert the clone to Gun4IR or a Blamcom or use a Sinden. I appreciate the suggestion but I am wanting to keep this CRT 
Use Happ guns. This isn't a bad idea at all but I do really love the Namco design.

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Well, the used mintior came in from ebay and its broke. On the hunt for another monitor now. 

 I guess i have nothing to lose by openening up the one i fried and see if i can fix it. Still don't know how i fried a 19V monitor with a 12V line from the PSU?? Trying to understand how and why it happened so i can learn from my mistake and try to improve my skills. I found the original power supply.  Thank you. I Appreiciate the insight.

Hello,

I have made several attempts to clone a spinning hard drive to SSD with no luck.  I have tried R Disk Image, Macrium, Disk Genius.  I have read the raw copy is the best, but I am having a difficult time with it since the source drive is 500gb and my target is 128gb.  Golden Tee only uses about 55gb of space.  Has anyone done this recently, any tips?

MaLa v2.0 is currently in development. Focus: Delphi 12 migration, stability improvements, and modern Windows 10/11 compatibility. No release date announced.

Thanks! Waiting for this

So, the new monitor needs 19V?  That is a very common voltage for LCD monitors. A quick check of the suitable power supply for that monitor reveals these facts:

•   DC 19 volts drawing 3.42 amps = 65-watt power consumption.
•   The DC plug into the monitor is centre pin positive.

Your original idea for using your PCs PSU is no longer applicable.  Getting 19 volts from a PC PSU is not practical. Even combining the 12V + 5V gives only 17V and the current supply (amps) using that method is unreliable. It is possible to modify a PC PSU to give 19V but that is beyond the scope of this project.

Some options to consider:

•   Use a power board in the cab and just plug the monitor supply adapter into it.
•   Use a DC-to-DC converter that can take 12V from the PSU and boost it to 19V (rated at around 4 or 5 amps). There are many DC-to-DC converters available, eBay, Amazon, Ali Express etc.

Plenty of BYOAC folk use a power board of some sort in their cabs to power monitors, it’s probably the easiest solution for you.

Just noticed it was supposed to be 19v if I reading it right. The power adapter is the wrong pic. Shouldn’t matter since that’s not what fried the monitor. The 12v from the psu did that.