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guess not lol?

very nice crt for the win!

Where does one find that build?

First-time cab build powered by a mini PC (BigBox front end) and just wanted to see if I'm on the right track with this proposed power setup. Any feedback appreciated, still quite new at this:

Current plan:

1) Inline rocker switch STARELO Extension Cord Switch https://tinyurl.com/4h5bxayr  This would poke out from the inside of the cab in the back through a cutout, plugs into the wall and the female end receives the Master/slave smart power strip below.

2) Master/slave smart power strip TrickleStar TS0006 4 Outlet Powertap  https://tinyurl.com/3nv3c7ns   is plugged into #1 and PC is plugged into the master outlet of this. PC is Mini PC Beelink SER6 PRO Mini PC W11 Pro (PC plug says 19V, 6.32A) and BIOS auto boots with power and auto-launches BigBox with a scheduled task.

3) Regular power strip for rest of components: ALESTOR Surge Protector https://tinyurl.com/ypta6r6z is plugged into a slave outlet of #2 and contains the rest of these peripherals:

• Main monitor: (plug says 19V, 3.42A)
• CP button LEDs (x14): LED wire harness that will go to a 12V plug (unsure of amps?)
• PACLed64 board: Also just a wire that will go to a 12V plug (unsure of amps?). This board is for the lighting (several LEDs) that came with the Ultimarc trackball (and I guess I could put the button lighting above on this too?)
• Coin door LEDs: wall plug says 12V, 1A
• Main marquee screen: wall plug says 12V, 2A
• Mini marquee info screen: wall plug says 12V, 2A
• Powered USB hub: wall plug says 12V, 2A
• Speaker amp: wall plug that says 12V, 3A
• Future devices?: Maybe another powered USB hub or some LED strips.

4) Power up the whole system with #1, then shut down the system from an arcade button either mapped to BigBox command or map to a script that runs a shutdown command.


I know I should use a panel-mount C14 inlet with fused switch instead of #1 but I’m just being scared, honestly. I’ve learned how to wire CPs and crimp QDs and Dupont connectors, but I have an irrational fear of doing big-boy AC wiring and burning my house down. I wish there was just a better professionally made option like this one (out of stock)  https://tinyurl.com/yc7kw9xt

Also you might suggest I just get a bigger smart power strip with more slave outlets instead of patching in yet another powerstrip. I’ve just found a lot of those plugs have big footprints and just need their own dedicated strip to fit. Wasn’t sure if this was bad practice though.

Sorry for the wall of text, but if you’ve read this far I do appreciate it!

So I put together a K7000 chassis with a SpongeBob consumer TV tube — it looks like a brand-new monitor. At first, I set it up as an NTSC TV because most games looked good, but some of them were overscanned. Then I configured it as a K7000, made some adjustments, and most games now look well-centered and sharp.

The problem is with Williams games — they all have black bars. If I try a different resolution, they look blurry. Kung-Fu Master and Mortal Kombat also scroll a lot, and again, changing the resolution doesn’t help.

Is there a way to fix William games so they look normal and fill the screen all the way?
Thanks for any help!
Windows 11 with amd r5 430 and emudrivers, latest groovymame.
Edit: found a sweet spot so mk and kungfu master won’t scroll

So, I did a thread a couple of years ago and got everything working via emulation. However I wanted to build the real thing with real parts. This is my understanding of things, please let me know if I’m missing something.
I was thinking I could build a universal machine and swap out the joystick panels and cartridges as well. The original World Series 99 Arcade cabinet was massive, so I wanted to build something more compact.
I’ll leave pics below as well.

What I think is needed to things work:
-Sega Naomi Game Cartridge and PCB
- Original Joystick Panel of course
-Power Supply Conversion Kit (Hope that works) - how do I add a on/off switch?
-CRT TV with YPBPR TV Inputs (wanted a slim crt as possible, I don’t think they make ones with VGA)
-VGA SCART to YPBPR (hoping that will display somewhat nicely on the CRT)
-Cabinet design with interchangeable joystick panels (I’ll figure that out after lol)

Let me know if this would work? Trying my best to make it somewhat plug and play and swappable for other game cartridges. I’ve never owned this arcade system but read that you can buy cartridges to swap out for different games. I understand I’d also need the joystick panel as well. However main purpose would be for World Series 99 Arcade.

Pictures not uploading, links below:

Cartridge/PCB
https://ebay.us/m/ZGTf7u

Power Supply
https://ebay.us/m/aRRTWR

RGBS VGA to YPBPR Component Converter SCART to YPBPR YCBCR
https://ebay.us/m/r8WqcD

@fusselkroete

Well, no prob. my pleasure!

I'm not really part of RA "community" or member of any related RA forum right now. But if that changes and I find some threads there about related topics and other reasons to show up there in time, I'll try and bring it up there.

hrhr too bad. But thanks for the effort Maybe you make a feature request in the retroarch community for better lightgun support with this Analog Arcade Gun? And Link this discussion?

Hi Geecab!

Please don't be sorry,

I totally understand that we all have personal lives too!

But I won't hide from you that I'm really looking forward to seeing this rev counter working. 

 See you soon, thank you very much!!!

 

Hi Argon, In this week's Chihiro release, we have the game Ghost Squad, in which we have a button called "Action". It has not been mapped.