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Did you find a fix for this issue? I'm having the exact same problem with the latest Teknoparrot.

Hi,
I have an older Turbo Twist 2 spinner and board from circa 2007. Everything works great, but I just picked up a U-Trak trackball and would like to use the same board interface for both.
I am looking at the Optiwiz 3 from Groovy Game Gear. Anybody know if I can hook up a U-trak to the Optiwiz 3 using just the stock trackball harness?
Posed a few question to Randy from GGG and never heard back. Thought I'd ask here.
Any help is truly appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks. I'm using the Anycubic Cobra 3

I have the same issue in Operation Thunderbolt and it's because the output states appear to be bugged in that game. If you inspect the states that are being sent, you will see this happening;

1.) A state of 0 is sent when a player's trigger is pressed, and a state of 1 is sent when the trigger is let go. I.e. the recoil states are opposite when compared to other games. This means that %s% cannot be used to dictate the recoil state.

2.) When a player presses their trigger, the system will immediately flip the other player's state to the opposite of what the current player is set.

If P1 starts holding their trigger, then this is sent:
P1=0

If P2 also begins holding their trigger, then all 3 of these messages are sent IF P1 is still holding their trigger. The result is that P2 will begin recoiling, and P1 will stop recoiling. (Remember, 0=recoil on and 1=recoil off)
P2=0 (P2 recoil on)
P1=0 (P1 recoil on)
P1=1 (P1 recoil off)

If P2 releases their trigger and keeps it released, then this is sent:
P2=1 (P2 recoil off)
P1=1 (P1 recoil off)
P1=0 (P1 recoil on)

If P1 releases and presses their trigger again, then this is sent.
P1=1 (P1 recoil on)
P2=1 (P2 recoil on)
P2=0 (P2 recoil off)

etc.. It sends the same initial state for both players, and then sets the other player's state to the opposite of the current player.

It's just a hot mess. You can't really use 2-player with outputs because of bad state messages being sent.

Ver nice print indeed, the multicolor thing turned out awesome!
Which printer are you using?

After going back and forth for a long time, I finally got myself a cabinet kit. So far, everything is fine. Unfortunately, I have one major problem. Probably due to carelessness, I ordered the kit in particle board instead of MDF. That’s a bit annoying, but not a huge issue overall.

BUT: I don’t really trust the particle board when it comes to the joystick. I’m very worried that sooner or later something will tear out. That’s why I’d like the panel to be reinforced with wood from underneath, and I also want the screws to go all the way through the panel — meaning that the screws will be visible from the top. I’ve read that this method is absolutely rock-solid and tear-proof.

Unfortunately, I lack the imagination to picture what this looks like or how exactly I should screw, glue, or attach something under the panel. I haven’t been able to find any pictures either.

I hope someone here can show me pictures of what it’s supposed to look like.

Maybe also important: On top of the 16 mm particle board there is an additional 3 mm acrylic sheet. Is that critical in any way?

This topic has been moved to Restorations & repair.

https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=169930.0

I have an NFL Blitz 2000 that was just working great a few months ago. It is kept in a climate controlled area, gets very light use, and is in pretty good condition.
Today it started with an issue. The test screen shows up and I am getting a "Sound DRAM: DRAM failed" and the machine doesn't boot. Everything else is good, even the Sound SRAM is "OK".

I measured the caps around what I think is the sound circuitry and they all seem to be getting a clean 5.2V (not the best multimeter).
I'm assuming sound ROM is good considering everything else passes.
From what I can gather the area of interest on the board is the ADSP-2115 along with the 3 RAM chips nearby (IS61C256AH-15J).
I used a thermal image camera on bootup to see if I could find a clue but those chips seem to warmup evenly and expectedly; No anomaly.

The only path or solution I've been able to think up is to just replace all 3 IS61C256AH-15J chips and hope that fixes the error.

My question: Has anyone experienced this issue? Does anyone have any information that could potentially help me?

Hi All!

I thought I'd put together a full release containing the new utilities I had been working on (Allowing the game to control a physical revcounter and 'CH340' USB Relay boards) and that has a few minor bug fixes. I have added new sections to the release note that explain how the new utilities work. I've also updated the first post on this thread to include the links to the new version that you see here.

enjoy!


Monaco GP Remake (v1.5.2) is ready download from my google drive.

For Windows:
  This release supports WindowsXP/Vista/Windows7/Windows10/Windows11:
    Monaco GP Remake v1.5.2 for Windows (Download from my Google Drive)
    Please read the release notes HERE.

  For Linux and Raspberry Pi:
    The release supports x86 Linux PCs Ubuntu 24.04 based distros (e.g. Linux Mint 22) and ARM Linux Debian 12 ('Bookworm') based distros (e.g. latest Raspberry Pi OS) 32-bit & 64-bit:
    Monaco GP Remake v1.5.2 for Linux & Raspberry Pi (Download from my Google Drive)
    Please read the release notes HERE.

Extract from the release notes version history:


v1.5.2 (6-12-2025)

 - Added new Scoreboard To Relays utility. See Section 13 of the release notes for details.

 - Added new Scoreboard To Revcounter utility, Arduino sketch file ('arduino_rev_sim.ino') and circuit diagram ('arduino_to_revcounter_circuit.jpg'). See Section 14 of the release notes for details.

 - OPTO2_DEVICE configuration option added. See Section 9 'Accelerator Pedal' of the release notes for details.

 - Bug fixed on the 'Enter Your Name' screen. Ensure the player is off the gas before detecting the first pedal press.
 
 - Bug fixed in the arcade game track file that was causing 'Number of Opponents' errors in the console window.

Waiting for my trackball and spinner to arrive on Thursday, so I decided to model a quick mock-up of the cabinet.  The speaker grills and marque will also be 3d printed. The letters will be 1mm thick so they will light up with some LED strips.

The gray panels will be MDF covered in carbon fiber vinyl. I'm not sure if I'm going to paint the purple sides, or vinyl wrap those as well.  I haven't decided of in going to cut a monitor bezel from MDF, or mask and paint some plexiglass instead.