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For the testers:

As you know this initial V2.0 release is focused on stability but......
A few new things in the beta that are easy to miss, if you'd like to poke at them:

Look: Options → GUI → Display → Misc, tick "Use modern VCL Style" and pick one from the dropdown (needs a restart, Windows 10 or later).
Move MaLa anywhere: Options → Backup → Paths, "Make all paths relative". It backs up first, and you can undo it from the Backup tab.
Rotation: right-click → Change orientation, then pick 0°, 90°, 180° or 270° directly.
Plugins: Options → Event Plugins, where you can untick a plugin to disable it and see which events it supports.
GIFs: drop a GIF named after the ROM into your video folder and it plays as the game video.

https://malafe.net/wip

Is it possible to hide certain game lists that are not child friendly?
I have grandkids that visit every now and then.
To be able to hide certain lists when they are trying to find their favorite game would be nice, in my situation anyway.

Sounds like a fair request.

How would you want the hidden list(s) revealed — a button combination on the panel, or something like a key on a separate keyboard you keep out of reach? (Kids tend to find button combos quickly.)

And should the lists go back to hidden every time MaLa starts, or stay revealed until you hide them again?

Is it possible to hide certain game lists that are not child friendly?
I have grandkids that visit every now and then.
To be able to hide certain lists when they are trying to find their favorite game would be nice, in my situation anyway.

Replying to send a PM. Happy to try this out it looks very promising at a very generous price.

Honestly, this topic will never be closed until the issue is resolved; it’s been nearly 13 years since the first post, and a lot has happened since then, MAME emulating Model 2 decently, and just a few days ago, teknoparrot also running Model 2 games great (I hope teknoparrot sorts this out once and for all). Still, it would be interesting if you posted a video of the result and a mini-tutorial here.

Nah I spoke too soon.  I thought it was resolved but it's more like it made it 'less bad'.  With enough time it occurs and it seems nothing is different at all.  So no fix, please ignore my above post.

In the end the only suitable solution was to  use DaytonaThrottle between Machine 1-4.  There are very short audip drops every 15s or so, but it's tolerable.

Now that many of you have your GreenAntz v2.3, I'm sure that some of you have opened them up to have a look.

So I thought I'd explain what the switches and pots are for.





There are three slide switches, which I've circled above:

- Composite sync input/vertical sync blanking switch is circled in YELLOW and near the VGA input. This switch is almost obsolete, but can be useful if the GreenAntz is receiving composite sync input from the video source and, for whatever reason, is unable to ignore vertical sync signals. Note that GreenAntz will try to accommodate this sync mismatch automatically. Often resetting the GreenAntz (re-plugging power) is enough to sort it out, so try that first. As a failsafe, sliding this switch to the CSYNC position will disconnect any vertical sync input and pull the vertical logic input HIGH. Best to leave it in the default HV position.

- Low-Pass filter switch is circled in GREEN and near the green power LED and Pr pot. This is a 9.5Mhz 6th-order Butterworth filter that can help reduce noise on the video signals. It also creates a video delay of approximately 800 nanoseconds. This can be seen as the picture moves slightly to the right as you active the filter. It also seems to blur lines together slightly, similar to a "sharpness" setting on a TV. Some might like, some might not. Default position is OFF.

- 15khz filter switch is circled in BLUE and is near the blue LED. The 15k filter only passes video and sync outputs if correct 15khz sync is received. Default position is ON. If disabled, GreenAntz will attempt to output and process video and sync input regardless. Note that it is possible to pass 480p modes with the filter disabled, and can get you a picture in 480p on a compatible HDTV, though the colour space conversion will be incorrect for HD modes.

FYI No other transcoders offer these features or flexibility.

For the pots, they simply correspond to the Y (green), Pb (blue), and Pr (red) outputs they are near, and I've used coloured dots to represent that above. The pots come pre-calibrated, but you can adjust them to suit your own needs. Every display, GPU, every pair of eyes, is a little different so these pots give the power back to you. Suggest that you mark positions before you adjust. If all else fails, by design the default position is roughly at the centre, ~40-45% or so of travel.


SYNC UPDATE - Mister FPGA


I decided to test GreenAntz v2.3, with it's revamped sync circuit, with my Mister unit. I found it was having trouble syncing reliably, consistently. Sometimes it worked fine for a while, then it lost sync. At first I thought my Mister must be underpowered with it's default 5v 2A power supply. So I upgraded to a 4A PSU and the situation improved, but continued. Now I'd lose sync for about a minute after switching the Mister on, but then it would come good. Perplexing.

Probing with an oscilloscope, I found that was because Mister outputs sync at only 3.3v from the VGA port (on analog IO board). This is much lower than the levels put out by most GPUs (closer to 5v, though sometimes as low as 3.8v or so).

Anyway, I fixed this by tweaking the AC coupling on GreenAntz sync inputs (reduced impedance, resistor on sync inputs) to accommodate Mister's lower sync input thresholds without losing any other capabilities, and have already retrofitted this change into units on hand. Now everything is sweet, GreenAntz and Mister playing well together again:



My phone camera seems completely incapable of correctly capturing the correct colours

For the record, my Bitfunx transcoder completely failed to recognise Mister's lower sync thresholds, as did my older Wakaba units. However, my more recent Wakaba handled the Mister sync OK. None of them have AC coupled their sync inputs.

Yes, I know that technically I can just tweak the Mister .INI file to get YPbPr output, and I even have an adapter (pictured!), but mostly I just run it through the GreenAntz, and should be able to.

EDIT: I just tried Mister's raw YPbPr video output and found the colours quite dull and dirty. Much better with a GreenAntz!

As always, if you ever have issues with using your GreenAntz, just let me know and we'll sort it out if possible.

switches and pots

Sorry for the necro question, I came across this thread trying to resolve the 'cars flicking in Daytona with network play' thing and the conclusion seems to be 'there's no real fix' but have any of you tried it on a VRR/FreeSync capable display?

With FrameSkip and FrameSync to 1, I had flickering.  Vsync was off since I was using 180hz FreeSync displays, but I decided to turn it on and voila?  The framerate is a bit funny, it's 58fps, then jumps for a moment every few seconds, but nothing flickers and the audio doesn't seem to desync either.

Honestly, this topic will never be closed until the issue is resolved; it’s been nearly 13 years since the first post, and a lot has happened since then, MAME emulating Model 2 decently, and just a few days ago, teknoparrot also running Model 2 games great (I hope teknoparrot sorts this out once and for all). Still, it would be interesting if you posted a video of the result and a mini-tutorial here.

Agreed. I'm currently fooling around with this custom ARM HW that is able to run Daytona at full 60FPS without a sweat. It runs natively on it. Minimal linux Kernel + Daytona Emulation code with many fixes. It natively boots into Daytona. There's just the Kernel and the emulator. No Operating System. It acts just like a real arcade.

No network issue. No flickering/lagging/synchro issue.

It currently workj with USB steering and I'm going to develop a PCB to interface with the DriveBoard, IO Board PreAmp, and the most difficult, the original CRT (if you don't want to use LVDS or HDMI output). The soundboard will not be needed anymore.
Oh, native 16:9 also. Color is perfect, too.

I want to build this so I can still enjoy my real cabinet without the fear of getting a Soundboard or CPU stack to stop working.

Hmm, you could try reaching out to SailorSat about the control tower? If anyone knows about it, it would be her.

Hey buttersoft,

Thanks some great ideas, i hadn't thought of link timeout support.

Sadly i havn't found any information on the control tower yet, my plan was to build a software copy to control networks machines