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mo

And so finally a post of more progress!
As of this morning I have the thing working 100%.
For now anyway of course.

I got irritated enough with the displays that I repinned that entire harness also- and still had one totally dead and another in seizure inducing flicker mode.
Dug around to find info on these plasma monsters and stumbled onto Steve Kulpa's waybackmachined website, and man is it good for working on this era machine.

As pbj wisely has said before, its all about the connectors.
After I repinned the harness and replaced those I found cold solder joints that would explain the display faults.
One had a flaky pin on the higb voltage line and the other a bad pin for the 5V line.
Reflowed all of those and voila- plasmolized joy!

Only other major issue was the drop targets not resetting nicely.
One would just launch- too far- and then come down cockeyed and stick.


A quick search on that issue (after taking the thing apart three times on my own and not finding anything obvious that I screwed up before) revealed that of course I wasn't the only person who suffered this malady.

I guess Bally design on drop target banks that era just sucked.
The fix is to install a rod between the springs and the target itself that prevents the things from getting boosted too high by the coil and reset bar.
What is REALLY odd thing is that there is already a pair of holes in the perfect spots to do this- but no rod!

So I remembered having a piece of 3/16" rod laying around and checked to see if it would fit the holes- and it is perfect- so out comes the cutting dies.


A little of this and that and you have a ready made drop target bank fix.
[img width=1024 height=1024]https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=398481;image[/
img]

It is hard to believe but I actually have a pin that is 100% functional now!

That would make one out of four 

Thank you for the response.   I'll see if I can check the changes from the A/B pulses and double check everything again.

Playboy

Pins

This topic has been moved to Main Forum.

https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=170013.0

I purchased a Happ3 trackball as well as the Happ3 to U-Trak and U-Trak to USB adapters (links below).   I installed per the images but all I get is a right click of the mouse, a little X-axis movement, and no y-axis movement.   I've confirmed that each axis on the Happ trackball is receiving a solid 5V.   I also noticed that nothing works unless I plug in both harnesses.

The wierd part is the right click of the mouse.
- With the wires connected as shown in your picture, the right mouse button input pin is not connected.
- Either something shorted that pin to logic low (ground) or the three pin connector was shifted one position and the logic low came from the X1 data line.

Ultimarc encoder pinout:


Happ trackball Molex connector wiring:
 (black)  Gnd  1  4  Y2  (green)
   (red)  +5V  2  5  X2  (blue)
(yellow)    Y1  3  6  X1  (purple)



In order for the red boards on the trackball to work properly, they need 5v, ground, and the two data lines.

With power off (unplug encoder USB), use your multimeter in ohms mode to check if all eight lines are properly connected between the encoder and the trackball red boards. (NOTE: Both red board pin 3 grounds connect to the encoder pin 2 ground.)
- For example, the green wire on pin 5 of the encoder (X1) should be connected to pin 1 of the X-axis red board.

If the wiring is all correct, the trackball should work.

If it doesn't, check the data lines.  Set your multimeter to Volts DC and plug in the USB so there's power to the encoder and red boards.
- When you slowly move the trackball, you should see each data line alternate between logic high (near 5v) and low (near 0v) as the encoder wheel turns, blocking and un-blocking the optos to generate a quadrature waveform like this.



If one of the data lines is stuck high or low, check if one of the two IR LEDs on the board is burned out.
- Use your cel phone/digital camera to see if the LEDs are lighting -- the wavelength can't be seen by the human eye, but can be seen by a digital camera.






Scott
EDIT: Added info about the multimeter setting and connecting the USB for testing the data lines.     No power to the red boards ==> no logic highs/lows on the data lines as the optos are blocked/unblocked by the encoder wheel.

Indeed, I was asked to make some changes on how guns ID are saved in the config file.
People tested a lot of guns to assure me  that it would have no impact.

But they didn't test with aliens gun and murphy's law did the rest.
See here : https://github.com/argonlefou/DemulShooter/issues/352

I think I'll need to rollback to the older way...
I'm aware of the issue, I just need to think a alittle before adressing it

Ahhhh. I have several GUN4IR lightguns that have the same PIDs because its firmware only supports up to 4 unique available values. I haven't upgraded to the latest Demulshooter, but if I do and happen to use the two guns with the same PID then that is another scenario where this come up . Just another call out if you need more reasons to revert it 

I use a tool that sets the DS config for me prior to launching a game, so I suppose it wouldn't be an issue for me personally if DS still supports the fully qualified paths when it's manually set.

Edit: I don't have a github account to respond in that thread, but maybe a fix could be to use devices if their full ID is found, and then for any device which isn't found, you'd try searching using the short path? Saving would still use the full path, and then portability will work using the fallback search logic? No need to continue that conversation here, but is just another thought. That may only work when running games though versus configuring in the UI.

Hi,

I recently played around a bit with the xbox emulators xemu and xenia on my racing cabinet, curious if they would work.

Afterwards I recognized that something is wrong with the pedals. Gas and brake seemed to be off and after some testing i figured that those only gave digital input - full or nothing. Same in the system control in windows. Wheel works fine but pedals act like buttons.

The fun thing is, that when i tick the box for "combined pedals" the pedals do work correctly. The second I untick -> digital.

Windows 10
Logitech Driving Force GT
Logitech Profiler 5.10
Mame
Supermodel
PC games
everything

After several de- and reinstallations of the wheel and the logitech software it still doesn't work correctly. Same issue.
I searched the whole registry, deleted as much as I could. Still nothing.
After one reinstallation the pedals seemed to work fine - after a reboot, again, digital. Don't know if or what difference I made during that installation.

I am not 100% sure if everything worked before I tried xemu/xenia but I guess so.
And I have this cabinet for several years and never encountered something like this.

So if anyone of you guys have any idea where to look at or hav any tips I would really appreciate it.
To reinstall the whole setup (windows, all emulators, PC games etc.) would be a real pain.

Oh and I testet xemu/xenia on another machine (bit more powerful Windows 11 instead of 10) - same wheel. No issues there.

Thanks in advance
Vic

That depends more on your room, than anything else.

 sounds going left and right ...will bounce off nearby walls, objects.. etc.
That can effect how things sound.

 Test your speakers in the place / positions where you intend to put your cab,
to get a rough idea.

 Another test to try.. is mounting speakers upwards, on top of the cabinet, towards the ceiling.. with
a slight internal angle towards left/right.