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1   Project Announcements / Re: The Web - Vpinon Today at 08:13:02 pm

Started by Ond - Last post by Malenko

You can check out a version of that Here. It's a cute little vpin build fully packed with hardware and looks great finished!

Gingerballs is elated to be mentioned!

I'm sure whatever you make will be a ton better but I'm glad I inspired some people to give it  go. Your pinball is going to have better specs than my main rig (a lowly 11th gen i5-11400F).
The one thing I wished I did different was make the monitor come up like a regular playfield , was kinda hoping yours would so I could steal your method for my next one :)

2   Everything Else / Re: So ... 3d Printers....on Today at 08:11:24 pm

Started by Howard_Casto - Last post by BadMouth

3D printing is an endless progression of "could be better" and diminishing returns.

...and there are limits to how good an fdm print can look.

Started by jonmadrid - Last post by lilshawn

power cable goes in the back... through a toggle switch on the bottom of the cabinet... to the main transformer... so, be sure this toggle switch is turned on.

check your mainboard by the amplifire... it has a big long wire plug with all the main power coming in. it should be in one of the corners of the board. the main board should have LED's showing the status of the various voltages there. (the voltages will be printed on the PCB. you may have a missing one causing issues.)

if there is no "power" visible there, remove the player and title rack and remove to bottom plate from inside the cabinet. Check for AC coming into the main transformer. it should be clearly labeled 120/240/0v etc. on a screw terminal block (so the machine can be switched to 120/240v operation in various countries.) if you have AC volts going in, you should have volts coming out and going to the main board... but there may be a circuit breaker there that has cut it out.

Started by Calamity - Last post by JPetersen

Thank you for the new release Calamity  :)

Started by Rocketeer2001 - Last post by lilshawn

typically the cut to fit silicone pads like what you had linked are for filling space between a device and a heatskinking material like the back cover case of a device... where you want to remove excess heat, but not real concerned about how much.

you quite often see them in TV's where the main video processor has a pad that makes it so there is contact with the metal backing of the LCD panel. it sucks out SOME heat...but not a real lot.

you also see them on VRMs and ram  chips for video cards to get some heat out to the heatsink.

more of a space filler than anything else.

Started by seattledavid - Last post by PL1

If you haven't already done it yet, carefully work through the design process in this section of the FAQ -- especially step 2.  It will help you clarify what you will need to build the cab you want.

Since you're planning a 4 player build, check out this list of games and avoid angled joysticks for P3 and P4. (green is good, red is bad)

all-in-one controller
Several questions to clarify what you are asking about:

1. Does it have to be an "all-in-one"?
- It would be far easier to use an IPac4 for the joysticks/buttons and a separate optical encoder for the trackball.

2. What do you mean by "all-in-one"?
- From your post, it appears that you're looking for a composite device that at a minimum includes an optical encoder for the trackball and a keyboard/gamepad encoder for the microswitch joysticks and buttons, right?
- Do you need one that includes an LED controller or an encoder for specialized controls like analog joysticks, rotary joysticks, etc.?

3. How many buttons per player?
- Six for P1 + P2 and four for P3 and P4 will cover almost all MAME games.


7   Main Forum / Re: 2 Joysticks per player?on Today at 04:21:41 pm

Started by jaekrieldgx - Last post by BadMouth

Install MAME and become familiar with how to map the controls in game for those games.
You can map any button or control on you panel to any original control in the game, individually for each game.  No weird wiring required.

You can have 2 joysticks per player provided you have enough inputs.
You can use the buttons in place of the second joystick with whatever mapping makes sense to you.
You can play 1 player and use player 2's joystick for the second stick.

You could even run two different revisions of the game with one mapped using the second option and the other mapped using the third option.

Started by Solstar - Last post by BadMouth

There is also usually an original emulated service (F2) menu that the wheel and pedals need calibrated in.  Analog control games aren't like plain joystick games where you can just plug in the controller and play the games, at least not without the controls sucking.

Started by Solstar - Last post by BadMouth

Read the sticked driving cab info thread.  I know it's old, but that is a basic thing it covers.

Default deadzone in MAME is 30%. lol
Saturation also needs increased to 1 (100%).
(Saturation is how far the wheel is turned before MAME sees it as being turned all the way.  If set to .5, you'll only have to turn it half as far and turning it further makes no difference.)

A steering wheel can't change direction as fast as an analog thumbstick, so most console games you have to decrease the saturation or restrict the wheel movement to 150-180 in profiler.  In some rare cases emulators have an option to act as if an original wheel controller is present if one was available.

Started by seattledavid - Last post by seattledavid

I am building out a custom four player + trackball cabinet. What do you recommend for an all-in-one controller for use on a Windows box with MAME?

Thank you!
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