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When I added led lights for the marquee, I just chopped up a 12volt wall wart since I had an extra plug on the smart strip and wired them in. Was pretty easy.

Impressive! I can visualise your circuit, but wondering if you have any schematics to share?

Not a problem, I've included the schematics for the RGB board below, I had to add some text to make it more readable to someone who hasn't stared at it as long as I have Hope it didn't actually make it harder...

The autoswitching is an innovative addition. Just an idea, but was also wondering if you might use a MOSFET (or a double-channel mosfet) instead of relay in the future as the circuit is low power and not running a motor? Mosfets are faster, lower power, cheaper, less negative EM feedback.

That's all true, but I prefer the simplicity of the relay circuit. Even in the worst case scenario if it fails, it will just render one input useless until it's replaced, and the small signal relay I ended up using costs about $1USD, so it's not too bad

Yeah, I initially tried to literally "filter" the higher frequencies, but that is actually really hard to do if the ones you want to filter out are only 1.5 or 2 times the one you want to keep.

I'm assuming that's because it's barely 1 octave higher at most, and from what I've seen from filter circuits in other fields (audio mainly) the octaves need to be far apart for adequate attenuation (like 30Hz vs 10KHz, as opposed to 5KHz vs 10KHz). In audio where phase doesn't matter as much (unless we're talking about destructive interference between 2 drivers for example), you can just cascade filters to increase the rolloff to 48dB/octave or more. For video, I'm assuming the phase distortion from cascading filters to get a steeper rolloff would ruin the 15KHz signal's timing anyway. So yeah, your PLL method is definitely the way to go!

Your wish is my command... here is an Aussie lowboy cab I built from scratch about 4 years ago, equipped with a component-modded 20" CRT TV and powered by GreenAntz. It took a long time from concept (2018) to completion (2022), mainly because I realised that I had to actually invent GreenAntz RGB to Component transcoders first, in order to run signals into the TV. It currently lives in our guesthouse. Click on the pic to go to the entire build thread, or just click here for more shiny finished pics.

Well that looks incredible! Perhaps the lowboy was also a thing here in South Africa
I'll have to go through the thread with my father who I'm going to be building the cabinet with, but this is a fantastic resource for us!

In the case of those small 9" Sonys, they have unused RGB pins on their jungles (CXA1465AS), so all that's strictly needed between the SCART RGB pins and the jungle pins are some 75R terminators to GND, 220R inline resistors and 10uF coupling caps. Pin 16 of the SCART socket carries the blanking voltage, which can be sent to the Ys (blanking) pin of the jungle through a 1K resistor, but should have a 220R to GND thereafter as a pulldown to prevent it from floating when not in use. All that's left is Sync and Audio, which I simply hijack from the composite RCAs, but not permanently, I use a transistor switched by blanking to power a DPDT relay (not directly, I use a transistor for low-side switching) to switch which connector gets to use the Composite/Sync and Audio inputs. I also added 5v6 zener diodes to each of the RGB and blanking lines to match Sony's own safety standards present in the TV's design. Finally, I use a diode to prevent backfeeding on the blanking line, all done in SMD form and with a separate SCART to JST breakout board for increased flexibility (I can reuse the SCART to JST board in any TV, and just have to change the main RGB board).

Impressive! I can visualise your circuit, but wondering if you have any schematics to share?

The autoswitching is an innovative addition. Just an idea, but was also wondering if you might use a MOSFET (or a double-channel mosfet) instead of relay in the future as the circuit is low power and not running a motor? Mosfets are faster, lower power, cheaper, less negative EM feedback.

As for other TVs, I'm currently working on an RGB MUX board for some TVs I have that only have OSD RGB lines, not unused regular ones.

I'd love to see that when it is done! 

That's great! I've also just read up on your PLL comparator and watched your demo, looks you've come up with a very robust rejector of anything above 15KHz without too much complexity, which is awesome!

Yeah, I initially tried to literally "filter" the higher frequencies, but that is actually really hard to do if the ones you want to filter out are only 1.5 or 2 times the one you want to keep. So, using a PLL comparator "lock & key" type circuit makes a lot more sense. I learned a lot from that project and improved my understanding of frequency electronics, which honestly is a pretty big side of electronics. I improved my electronics skills and need to add a pip to my character sheet 

I don't see why not! I definitely would love to see a cab of your design though, would also be a good way of showing off the GreenAntz, since I'm sure most arcades out there use straight RGB, and people may have misconceptions on just how good YPbPr component really looks , pretty much indistinguishable from true RGB with the right transcoder, connections, jungle, etc.

Your wish is my command... here is an Aussie lowboy cab I built from scratch about 4 years ago, equipped with a component-modded 20" CRT TV and powered by GreenAntz. It took a long time from concept (2018) to completion (2022), mainly because I realised that I had to actually invent GreenAntz RGB to Component transcoders first, in order to run signals into the TV. It currently lives in our guesthouse. Click on the pic to go to the entire build thread, or just click here for more shiny finished pics.

What methods did you use for the RGB mods?

In the case of those small 9" Sonys, they have unused RGB pins on their jungles (CXA1465AS), so all that's strictly needed between the SCART RGB pins and the jungle pins are some 75R terminators to GND, 220R inline resistors and 10uF coupling caps. Pin 16 of the SCART socket carries the blanking voltage, which can be sent to the Ys (blanking) pin of the jungle through a 1K resistor, but should have a 220R to GND thereafter as a pulldown to prevent it from floating when not in use. All that's left is Sync and Audio, which I simply hijack from the composite RCAs, but not permanently, I use a transistor switched by blanking to power a DPDT relay (not directly, I use a transistor for low-side switching) to switch which connector gets to use the Composite/Sync and Audio inputs. I also added 5v6 zener diodes to each of the RGB and blanking lines to match Sony's own safety standards present in the TV's design. Finally, I use a diode to prevent backfeeding on the blanking line, all done in SMD form and with a separate SCART to JST breakout board for increased flexibility (I can reuse the SCART to JST board in any TV, and just have to change the main RGB board).

As for other TVs, I'm currently working on an RGB MUX board for some TVs I have that only have OSD RGB lines, not unused regular ones.

I've been taking a short break from modding. This year I've been focused on re-vamping the GreenAntz RGB to Component Transcoder, giving it a few new bells and whistles including SMD form-factor, case, better sync circuit and a built-in 15khz video filter.

That's great! I've also just read up on your PLL comparator and watched your demo, looks you've come up with a very robust rejector of anything above 15KHz without too much complexity, which is awesome!

So, I haven't added any more to my little pile of modded TVs recently. Looks like there's eight already, all 20". I fantasize about building some cabs for them, powered by GreenAntz, but reality always pushes back, too busy. Maybe I should make a video wall?

I don't see why not! I definitely would love to see a cab of your design though, would also be a good way of showing off the GreenAntz, since I'm sure most arcades out there use straight RGB, and people may have misconceptions on just how good YPbPr component really looks , pretty much indistinguishable from true RGB with the right transcoder, connections, jungle, etc.

Cheers Razmann4k!

I'm feeling a warm fuzzy glow, only this time it isn't from spending too much time at the back of a TV   

Satisfying to see you continuing to spread the good word. Proper, secure, reliable connections really are just a wee few rungs below modding godliness.

What methods did you use for the RGB mods?

I've been taking a short break from modding. This year I've been focused on re-vamping the GreenAntz RGB to Component Transcoder, giving it a few new bells and whistles including SMD form-factor, case, better sync circuit and a built-in 15khz video filter.

So, I haven't added any more to my little pile of modded TVs recently. Looks like there's eight already, all 20". I fantasize about building some cabs for them, powered by GreenAntz, but reality always pushes back, too busy. Maybe I should make a video wall?   

The single-button idea is the one I'd lean towards. It fits the cabinet: wire a spare encoder input somewhere out of sight or alike

Roughly what I'm thinking:
it's a "keep it out of the way" feature, not a lock. Anyone with a keyboard and a bit of knowledge can get round it. For grandkids at the cabinet, though, that should be plenty.

It's going on the list for after the beta.

This is the way to do it.

If using an IPAC or similar encoder, you can set it up such that the button is impossible to press unless you press the SHIFT button (I like to call it ADMIN) first to make the alternate keyset available. I always put this ADMIN button somewhere out of the way, discrete but not hidden. Make it a black button on black background and people will forget it is there almost as soon as you tell them.

Sounds like a fair request.

How would you want the hidden list(s) revealed — a button combination on the panel, or something like a key on a separate keyboard you keep out of reach? (Kids tend to find button combos quickly.)

And should the lists go back to hidden every time MaLa starts, or stay revealed until you hide them again?

Well, of course there are many ways to do it.
Maybe give each list the option to hide until unhidden, in options/configuration.
I guess my suggestion to unhide would be a 1 to 3 button press. (User to select what button(s))
Example: 1 + 2 + 3 would unhide the hidden lists.
In my scenario, the button press could be just one button, which would be assigned to a input im not using on my CP.
Then I could hide the button behind coin door or somewhere.

I know this would be a pretty hard request, because if more than one button press is required, timers would have to be involved.
It would be a lot simpler, I think, to have only one button (keyboard encoder input) assigned as the key.
Maybe press button again or quit mala to re-hide the lists?

The single-button idea is the one I'd lean towards. It fits the cabinet: wire a spare encoder input somewhere out of sight or alike

Roughly what I'm thinking:
it's a "keep it out of the way" feature, not a lock. Anyone with a keyboard and a bit of knowledge can get round it. For grandkids at the cabinet, though, that should be plenty.

It's going on the list for after the beta.

Hi there Zebidee, it's been many months now. I just came by to say thanks again for all your assistance in getting me off the ground . Last year, I just took that 14" Sonistar out of the garage somewhat on a whim and you helped me figure out how to get it component modded. Fast forward to today, I've worked on about a dozen CRTs, most of which are customers' CRTs here in South Africa. I've done RGB mods and have become used to geometry adjustments, yoke alignment, making and placing convergence strips, adjusting the convergence and purity rings, recapping, etc.

I've even made some custom automatic RGB switching boards for some small Sony KV-9PTs that retain the original functionality when there's no blanking voltage. My daily driver is a nice, large Sony WEGA KV-SW29M20, which apart from its inherent geometry issues, is a beautiful companion to my consoles. I'm also planning on building some genuine arcade cabinets soon with proper CRTs.

I know you're a fan of pics, so here you go!
1. The automatic switching boards I made for 2 KV-9PTs. I later removed those shielded wires and the silicone and replaced it with shorter, unshielded wire that was more flexible (the shielding made it very inflexible and that's why I initially put that silicone there)
2. The rears of the KV-9PTs with SCART sockets they have no business having on them
3. Picture of Kasumi from DOA2 on PS2 via SCART RGB on a KV-9PT
4. My personal CRT journey, starting with that 14" Sonistar in the front, then the 21" Philips (TCL) on the left, and finally the massive 29" Sony KV-SW29M20 to the right

Sounds like a fair request.

How would you want the hidden list(s) revealed — a button combination on the panel, or something like a key on a separate keyboard you keep out of reach? (Kids tend to find button combos quickly.)

And should the lists go back to hidden every time MaLa starts, or stay revealed until you hide them again?

Well, of course there are many ways to do it.
Maybe give each list the option to hide until unhidden, in options/configuration.
I guess my suggestion to unhide would be a 1 to 3 button press. (User to select what button(s))
Example: 1 + 2 + 3 would unhide the hidden lists.
In my scenario, the button press could be just one button, which would be assigned to a input im not using on my CP.
Then I could hide the button behind coin door or somewhere.

I know this would be a pretty hard request, because if more than one button press is required, timers would have to be involved.
It would be a lot simpler, I think, to have only one button (keyboard encoder input) assigned as the key.
Maybe press button again or quit mala to re-hide the lists?

I've been a loyal user of these programmable restrictor plates for a few years, but I have had a few software issues that remain unresolved.

 I have contacted Thunderstick and they claim the programmer, whom I assume is Stefan Burger himself, but I may be wrong, is no longer available or can be contacted. It seems all firmware and software upgrades are indefinitely on hold. I have lost hope of being able to fix the issues I have faced.

Is Stefan still around?  If so can you clarify? Tanks!