Recent Posts

here you go, have all 4 colors still in stock.

Those are Discs of TRON-ish "push-pull" knobs.  I think OP was asking about Tempest knobs.

OP, if you want an OG Tempest knob (they were plastic), I have a few which aren't reproductions.  I.e. the same part Atari used.  But they aren't cheap due to their rarity, as they haven't been produced for decades.

I think the pedal (extra button) is in the need for some game. In example Time Crisis (IIRC) use the extra button to cover behind objects. Using the pedal increase the immersion, I think

You get a horizontal line on the screen?

CRT chassis might be just some cold/dry/cracked solder joins, opened up due to being handled and moved about, and most likely around the vertical IC. Check underside carefully with a magnifier lens, reflow solder if necessary.

Could also be caps (have they ever been checked/replaced?) or the vertical IC itself. Try checking voltages at Vcc, input & output pins.

You can send the monitor chassis (sans tube) away for repair too, so long as they have a compatible tube to test it on.

It's been a while but I'd also be happy to put my hands on the UI built by Nuexzz. 

Thanks a lot SailorSat! I cannot wait to try all those amazing arcade racers in multiplayer just like in my childhood! 

i have an ivan off road racing{WG}, sent the board away for repair.  i then took monitor out of cab and the chassis.
I got the board back, as i was putting it back together the neck board was real pain to get back together with monitor.
Now i have half a good screen, and top half of screen has vertical collapse.  i have all the colors and good focus on the working part.

the screened was flipped and backwards, so i flipped the red and the blue, and the screen wasn't backwards anymore
then i flipped the green and yellow, and now have total collapse.

Is it definitely the chassis has a problem?
Could this happen if i messed pins up putting the yoke back on?

I am correct in saying this problem is not the main board since its vertical collapse?
The monitor did work before i sent the board away for repair.

Wow, well done. Thanks for sharing

It's a molex connector but you can ignore that thing completely.   Cut it off as soon as you get the gun.   Switching power supplies normally have screw terminals so you just strip the wire and screw each wire to the appropriate voltage.  Of course, you could try and find the male version of that connector, but they are usually expensive, and the guns will need to be permanently mounted anyway.   

The wires should all be safely tucked inside your cabinet, so they won't be exposed.   If you are talking about the gears under the gun those are typically coved with a metal box in the arcades, but a wooden or even plastic box could be fashioned quite easily.

Thanks for the details. I don't have space for a cabinet so I was thinking about just setting something up with one of these guns and the power supply. I'll have a thought about how I could protect both (the power supply and the gun gears) as I won't be able to purchase it atm, bad timing going on holidays shortly just when I saw this

Thanks again 🙏

Hi, I have a 3-pedal usb device without any software, simple plug and .....press. In notepad I see that pedal left is keyboard "a", pedal right is "c" and center pedal is "b" so in my .ahk for "Heavy fire Afghanistan" , to change bindings and use pedals, I wrote: "a::A" (hide left), "c::d(uppercase)" (hide right) and "b::S" (hide down) but now my Sinden does not work! Sinden software is on, demulshooter is green but Sinden does not respond. If in my .ahk I write "A::A", "C::d(uppercase)" and B::S" Sinden works but pedals does not respond, because they send "a" and not "A" . None of these letters are used as keys in my sinden software.... so it's very strange: any ideas?

This guide is for anyone who wants to create an auto-calibrating 720 joystick.

Credits to:
PL1 (Scott) for teaching me all of this.
DarthMarino for showing me the MAME settings.

Issues:
The problem with 720 is that the controller uses a tilted joystick on a spinner. It spins on a single axis while the skater spins in a circle. What that means is after a few spins (about 10-20) in the same direction, the stick no longer lines up with the skater on the screen. Meaning, if the joystick is facing North (up), the skater should face North, but is no longer aligned with the joystick.

Fix:
To correct this problem, in MAME there is a “center” button, which when pressed would FORCE the skater to face North (up). So, if the skater goes out of alignment, the player can point the joystick North (up)  and push the “center” button to force the skater face North. Your MAME settings must be set to “Real” in “Machine Configuration” menu to get the centering options in the "Input Assignments" menu.

DarthMarino explains it better in his video here:


 
How to:
To achieve this button press without ever needing to press a button (like the actual 1986 arcade cabinet). I ran an optical sensor in parallel (spliced) into my "center" button. I spliced the power line into the spinner's power (see diagram below). I placed the sensor under the joystick, in the North (up) or 12 o’clock position. Then I screwed in a disc with a single protruding “tooth” to the bottom of the spinner shaft via the screw on the bottom. So, every time the stick is pointing in the North (up) position, there is a disc with a single tooth interrupting an optic sensor, which creates a button click. Again, that button click will point the skater North (up) each time it is pressed, or each time the joystick is pointing North. = auto-calibration.

MAME settings:
Keyboard press “TAB” (using these settings alone will allow you to play 720 fairly accurately, will need to press the center button to re-align the skater when he gets out of wack)
1- Select “Machine Configuration” > “Controller Type” = “Real” 
2- Select “Input Settings” > “Input Assagissements”
            P1 Button 1 = Kick/Player 1 (map this button)
            P2 Button 2 = Jump/Player 2 (map this button)
            Rotate Analog = Spin your spinner to map
            Rotate Analog INC = None
            Rotate Analog DEC = None
            Center Analog = Spin your spinner to map it should also automatically map your "Center INC" button
            Rotate Analog INC = (map this button) This is the button I have mapped to the optic sensor
            Rotate Analog DEC= (can map this also, but not necessicary)
3- Select “Input Settings” > “Analog Input Adjustments:"
            Center Inc/Dec Speed = 255
            Center Reverse = Off
            Center Sensitivity = 255
            Rotate Inc/Dec Speed = 0
            Rotate Reverse = Off
            Rotate Sensitivity = 75 (Works well for X-Arcade/Tankstick spinners, This number will vary depending on spinner brand)

Items used:
1 - arcade button (mapped to “Center INC”)
1 - Interruptor disc (3d printed or fabricated)
1 - wire kit with pins
https://a.co/d/1nVQird
1 - optic sensor (Amazon or similar)
https://a.co/d/axq8wgl
1 - analog spinner (Mine is on a Tankstick Max from X-Arcade)
https://shop.xgaming.com/products/x-arcade-tankstick-max
1 - 720 joystick (3d printed, fabricated, or ordered somewhere. I got mine on eBay)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/167219123775?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=v4lY9V5LTHa&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=VvGZ3I3gTxq&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Spliced to button:


Optic sensor and 3D printed disc:


Joystick auto-calibrating when it's in the North (up) position.


I'm extremely new to all this. I just got into it about 3 months ago. I'm sure the pro's in here have way better or more efficient ways to do this. But this works amazingly well for me. Also, the 3d prints will vary based on individual controller cases and whatnot, but this worked for me. If anyone wants to do this same setup, or just wants the files, feel free to send a message. Hope this helps!

-Chris