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Did you find a fix for this issue? I'm having the exact same problem with the latest Teknoparrot.

No there is no fix except for to get an old Teknoparrot the game is broken in any Teknoparrot version probably from 2025. I asked on discord. That's why I was asking if anyone just happened to have an old Teknoparrot that can play it you can't find one on Google and their official site has an old Teknoparrot but it's too old it's before the game was even on there. So either the Teknoparrot devs would have to fix it in a new version or find an old version but that doesn't seem likely.

Hello TEAM :-)

For those interested, I'm offering this modified version of MAME 0.168 which allows you to automatically SAVE the "Slider Refresh Rate" setting of the slider, accessible via the Tab key, and save it in the configuration files (.cfg) of each game.

Binary files for Windows 32-64 (compatible with XP / 7 / 8 / 10 / 11) and source code are available here:

https://github.com/HardCade/hardcade/releases/tag/Mame_slider_refresh_save

Some info from the README:

= ... ======================================================================================

This modified version of MAME 0.168 adds the ability to automatically SAVE the "Refresh Rate" setting of the
SLIDER, accessible via TAB, in the configuration files (.cfg) of each
game.

✓ Allows you to fine-tune all resolutions with extreme precision (3 decimal places)

NOW: The slider setting is saved and restored automatically!

⚠ PREREQUISITE: The "cheats" option must be enabled in the mame.ini file
for the "Screen Refresh Rate" slider to appear.

→ This option is ENABLED BY DEFAULT in this version.

===========================================================================================
VIDEO CONFIGURATION TO FINE THE REFRESH RATE
===============================================================================================================

This version has been configured to facilitate refresh rate adjustment:

✓ Triple Buffering: DISABLED (triplebuffer = 0)
✓ V-Sync: DISABLED (waitvsync = 0)
✓ Filters Video: DISABLED

= ... ===========================================================================================

The settings are saved in: cfg/[game_name].cfg

Example for Double Dragon: cfg/ddragon.cfg

You can open this file with Notepad to see:

<?xml version="1.0"?>
<mameconfig version="10">
<system name="ddragon">
<screen_refresh>
<screen tag=":screen" refresh="60.000000" />

</screen_refresh>
</system>
</mameconfig>

===========================================================================================
FEATURES
========================================================================================================

✓ Automatic saving of the slider refresh rate to the .cfg file
✓ Automatic loading on game startup
✓ Intelligent detection (only modified values ​​are saved)
✓ Accuracy 0.001 Hz (3 decimal places)
✓ Automatic reset when you return to the default value
✓ Compatible with all MAME games
✓ The "Screen Refresh Rate" slider retains its value between sessions

I am looking at the Optiwiz 3 from Groovy Game Gear. Anybody know if I can hook up a U-trak to the Optiwiz 3 using just the stock trackball harness?

You'll need to rearrange the Dupont pins, but that's not difficult.

Put the four data lines in the UTrak Y-axis 1x4 Dupont housing.

Put the 5v lines in a 1x2 housing or two 1x1 housings and put the ground in a 1x1 housing.
- You might have some of these 1x1 or 1x2 housings on computer or breadboard jumpers.
- If you don't have any of them, put the 5v lines in the X-axis 1x4 housing (leave the two un-filled positions hanging over the PCB) and put the ground line on the ground pin without a housing.

Related thread with pinouts and suggested order of steps:
https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,169793.msg1779749.html#msg1779749


Scott

Hello and thank you for entrance into the forum,

I have Acquired 8 Touch tunes Jukes from a closing down operator.
I've done several searches on the site and have found a lot of useful information.
My goal is to replace the computer with a windows box and use the cabinet , speakers and amps.
I haven't had any luck locating Red DI boxes to allow input from a standard audio source, (1/8" stereo or RCA style input)
In my search for information i found on ebay step up isolation audio transformers that might do the trick, however I'm sure someone here know far better than google the best approach. I am also curios if there is a way to rip the audio files off the old hard drives (I have 8 from the pcs and 12 more spares) they all say gen 3. I don't know anything about Linux . My goal is to have 4 operational units and a bunch of spare parts.
Has anyone been able to find windows drivers for the 9 pin serial touch screens? I have 13 or 14 monitors from this purchase including those installed. not all the same model.

Thanks agin
Sorry for the rambling post

Did you find a fix for this issue? I'm having the exact same problem with the latest Teknoparrot.

Hi,
I have an older Turbo Twist 2 spinner and board from circa 2007. Everything works great, but I just picked up a U-Trak trackball and would like to use the same board interface for both.
I am looking at the Optiwiz 3 from Groovy Game Gear. Anybody know if I can hook up a U-trak to the Optiwiz 3 using just the stock trackball harness?
Posed a few question to Randy from GGG and never heard back. Thought I'd ask here.
Any help is truly appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks. I'm using the Anycubic Cobra 3

I have the same issue in Operation Thunderbolt and it's because the output states appear to be bugged in that game. If you inspect the states that are being sent, you will see this happening;

1.) A state of 0 is sent when a player's trigger is pressed, and a state of 1 is sent when the trigger is let go. I.e. the recoil states are opposite when compared to other games. This means that %s% cannot be used to dictate the recoil state.

2.) When a player presses their trigger, the system will immediately flip the other player's state to the opposite of what the current player is set.

If P1 starts holding their trigger, then this is sent:
P1=0

If P2 also begins holding their trigger, then all 3 of these messages are sent IF P1 is still holding their trigger. The result is that P2 will begin recoiling, and P1 will stop recoiling. (Remember, 0=recoil on and 1=recoil off)
P2=0 (P2 recoil on)
P1=0 (P1 recoil on)
P1=1 (P1 recoil off)

If P2 releases their trigger and keeps it released, then this is sent:
P2=1 (P2 recoil off)
P1=1 (P1 recoil off)
P1=0 (P1 recoil on)

If P1 releases and presses their trigger again, then this is sent.
P1=1 (P1 recoil on)
P2=1 (P2 recoil on)
P2=0 (P2 recoil off)

etc.. It sends the same initial state for both players, and then sets the other player's state to the opposite of the current player.

It's just a hot mess. You can't really use 2-player with outputs because of bad state messages being sent.

Ver nice print indeed, the multicolor thing turned out awesome!
Which printer are you using?

After going back and forth for a long time, I finally got myself a cabinet kit. So far, everything is fine. Unfortunately, I have one major problem. Probably due to carelessness, I ordered the kit in particle board instead of MDF. That’s a bit annoying, but not a huge issue overall.

BUT: I don’t really trust the particle board when it comes to the joystick. I’m very worried that sooner or later something will tear out. That’s why I’d like the panel to be reinforced with wood from underneath, and I also want the screws to go all the way through the panel — meaning that the screws will be visible from the top. I’ve read that this method is absolutely rock-solid and tear-proof.

Unfortunately, I lack the imagination to picture what this looks like or how exactly I should screw, glue, or attach something under the panel. I haven’t been able to find any pictures either.

I hope someone here can show me pictures of what it’s supposed to look like.

Maybe also important: On top of the 16 mm particle board there is an additional 3 mm acrylic sheet. Is that critical in any way?