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A new book that BYOAC cabinet builders might enjoy...
GAtekwriter:
There was a slight flex in 1 of the 3 tables that were built during the book's writing - but it was fixed by bolting some 3'10" strips of c-bar underneath... even then, without the metal, the flex was less than 1/8" in the middle compared to the front and rear edges. MDF is pretty rigid for this length.
Jim
Ed_McCarron:
--- Quote from: GAtekwriter on November 11, 2009, 05:56:51 pm ---but it was fixed by bolting some 3'10" strips of c-bar underneath...
--- End quote ---
Ah, good idea. Neat looking book.
Scottk:
Hi,
I am also VERY interested in this project.
I am a HORRIBLE (and I truly mean HORRIBLE!) woodworker.
I have had many ideas, where I draw out the plans, and it looks good on paper, but when I go and try to cut the wood and put it together, it comes out like crap. :-\
I am thinking that this project just might be the key to my success.
I draw the plans, and have the CNC cut the parts for me.
So I have a number of questions.
Do you have more Photos of the machine, like the first photo, but take from various angles/sides?
I would like to see how it might look, size-wise, since I would be putting it into my garage, and need to understand the full dimensions...
ie, what sticks out and where.
Next...
My space is somewhat limited in my garage, so I was wondering if when its not in use, can the upper part move to the back, thus giving me a workspace for other things I might do, non-CNC cutting-wise?
Next, I think its been touched on, but I just wanted to verify it.
Is the idea that you cut the first set of parts, and try to get it as close to as "correct" as possible, and then if you find a few of your parts not perfect, that you could have the CNC
machine redo the cuts for you?
(ie, use your CNC to build a 2nd CNC, but in my case, I would swap out the old CNC parts that I did bad, and put the new ones in the place of it)
How does the interface work to the PC?
Is it assumed you will have a PC underneath the machine that will serve the CNC with the commands, etc?
Is the interface to it over a serial port (thus, you need a PC that still has a 232 serial port on it), or USB, or Ethernet?
(As a software programmer by trade, who works on firmware on embedded systems, if the interface is serial, my company actually produces many
Ethernet -> Serial convertors, which would work slick in sending commands from my PC in my office to the CNC out in the garage) =)
What software do you use?
I think you mentioned Mach3....
How much does that run?
Is that considered part of the estimate $800 cost?
(I am assuming the PC part is obviously NOT considered in the cost, but wasn't sure about the software)
Is there an open source CNC software package that might be gotten instead?
I think those are all the questions for now...
Thanks!
Scott
GAtekwriter:
Hi, Scott.
I'll get some more pictures for you and post them in a separate reply, but here are some answers to your questions:
1. My space is somewhat limited in my garage, so I was wondering if when its not in use, can the upper part move to the back, thus giving me a workspace for other things I might do, non-CNC cutting-wise?
My response: Yes, the taller portion (that makes up the y-axis and z-axis) can be moved to the front or back of the machine, leaving approximately 3' of workspace on the tabletop. You'd want to be careful with the type of work you do on top of the CNC machine's worktable since you ideally want it to remain flat and unmarred. Many users of CNC machines will insert a 1/8" piece of hardwood (available in 2x4 size) over the worktable and this is a sacrificial sheet that can be removed and replaced as often as you like. For me, I find myself storing small tools on the cnc machine tabletop quite often - measuring tape, drill bits, etc.
2. Is the idea that you cut the first set of parts, and try to get it as close to as "correct" as possible, and then if you find a few of your parts not perfect, that you could have the CNC machine redo the cuts for you?
My response: Absolutely! You can do this, and Patrick does this quite often. The three machines built while I wrote this book (my dad's machine, mine, and my tech editors) all are working just fine and accurate without any recutting of parts using the actual CNC machine. I did make a mistake on trimming a part during the initial build and we just ended up cutting that part again with a tablesaw (and using the matching piece to get the size correct - you'll do this a lot! Since most parts on the CNC machine have a partner/matching piece, you can increase your accuracy by cutting them at the same time and using a tablesaw or sander to get their dimensions dead-on accurately matching.
3. How does the interface work to the PC? Is it assumed you will have a PC underneath the machine that will serve the CNC with the commands, etc?
My response: The cnc machine and its motors and the motor drivers connect to a breakout board (I'll post a photo in separate response). This breakout board connects to your PC via the printer port (LPT1). It doesn't get much easier. If your PC doesn't have a printer port, you can buy them at Radio Shack or computer parts stores for less than $10 these days. (Microcenter in Atlanta sells them for $6.00). I have seen breakout boards with USB interface, but they're more expensive and the word on the street (various cnc discussion boards) is that the parallel port method is more reliable and less finicky - I can't speak to that since I've only used the parallel port method, but it does work!
You do NOT have to have the PC underneath or beside the machine except when you wish to use it... my dad keeps his PC to the side of his worktable and disconnects it when not in use. I take my PC in and out of the house (to the garage) when I need it. My tech editor has his permanently wired to his machine (and I'll include a photo of that, too). My tech editor wired up all the electronics using nothing more than my chapters, and he says if he can successfully get it wired up, then any reader can (he's more of a woodworker than electrician).
4. What software do you use?
My response: So far, I've used the free version of Mach3 which has allowed me to do most of the basic stuff you've seen. The full version is around $150 and ArtSoft recommends you NOT buy it until you find you need to do more than the 500 lines of G-code that the free version allows.
As for CAD - I use the demo of VCarve - it's a bit pricey ($600) but I'm preparing to buy it because, honestly, it's that easy to create stuff! Check out the website at http://www.vectric.com/WebSite/Vectric/vcp/whats_new/vcp_v5/whats_new_overview.htm
The function of the book was to provide instruction for building a CNC machine - we didn't want to completely leave the reader hanging when it came to CAD/CAM/Controller software, so we do make some recommendations and provide some more websites... including quite a few free/open source alternatives. When it comes to CAD software, though, there are just too many to cover and everyone seems to find their own favorite.
Any more questions, let me know... I'll try and get back here later and post a bunch more photos for you - I'll grab as many as I can and post quite a few (a limit of 8 per post, so forgive me if I add a few more posts to this thread.)
Jim
GAtekwriter:
Scott,
Here are some more photos...
1. Breakout board wired up to the stepper motor drivers
2. Rear view of Y-axis and Z-axis
3. Machine's MDF parts all bolted together - minus electronics/motors/lead screws
4. Closeup of Z-axis motor (very top of machine)
5. Y-axis frame with Z-axis frame sitting on top of worktable and ready to install
6. Hooked up an electric drill to the lead screw to test smoothness of movement along the Y-axis
7. My dad's computer setup
8. My tech editor's computer setup (he went a little above and beyond with the little cabinet, and his goal is to enclose most of it with plexi.
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