Jukebox - Acrylic See Through running ETouch 19" x 17" x 5.5" (Just a few pics)

[mccoy178]

Here is a project that a few of my students and I built at school.  It was a fun project that used both the cnc machine and hand tools.  About the only thing left is to drill a hole in the top for the power button.  This project was really amazing in regards to what the kids got out of it.  From designing the box to discovering the parts and pieces to solving driver issues, it was a great time.  I had about 6 to 8 hours total time wrapped up in this project.  It was dragged out over a few weeks, but it really was a very fast project.

The jukebox consisted of about $600 worth of parts and pieces paid for by me personally.  Here are the highlights:
Hardware:
1.  3/8" acrylic scraps for the sides and 1/2" scrap for the front.  1/2" Birch plywood for the back.
2.   Intel BOXD945GCLF2 Atom 330 Intel 945GC Mini ITX Motherboard/CPU Combo - Retail
Address: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813121359

3.   Western Digital Caviar Blue WD1600AAJS 160GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Address: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136075

4.   Athena Power AP-MFATX22 220W Mini ITX / Micro FLEX ATX / ATX12V Active PFC Power Supply - OEM
Address: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817338045

5.   CORSAIR 2GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667 (PC2 5300) Desktop Memory Model VS2GB667D2 - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145180

6.  19"  Touchscreen plate add on
Similar Item: Ebay Auction

7.  19" LCD Monitor decased.

8.  A couple cold cathode tubes
Address: http://www.xoxide.com/red-cold-cathode.html

9.  Misc. Parts including usb ports, power button, and led robbed from old computer case.
10.  Fused Power Entry Module 3A (Power switch for main power input.  PC power and monitor power spliced together.  I actually bought mine from Mouser, but this is the exact same thing.)
Address: http://www.lizardlick.com/pages/electrical.shtml

11.  Stainless steel screws purchased from Lowes.
Address: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=136468-37672-882003&lpage=none


Software
1.  Windows XP Home fresh install
Address: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-FULL-VERSION/dp/B00022PTRU/ref=dp_cp_ob_sw_title_2

2.  E Touch - The Touchscreen Jukebox software from BYOAC's very own BarryBarcrest.  Fantastic software.  I'm currently using the Xmas skin made by Bluemeantsi at the E Touch forums.
Address to E Touch site: http://www.freeboxjukebox.com/
Skin screenshot from forum:


Tools and Adhesives:
1.  #4 Acrylic weld.  Water like substance that melded the acrylic together at the seams.  Amazing stuff.  Polish and applicators also.
Address: I bought this stuff locally

2.  Shopbot CNC machine with the use of Vectric Aspire software.  What can I say?  It's cool.

3.  Porter Cable Router with 3/4" round over bit, 1/2" shank.  For the front of jukebox.


4.  Screw and Die set from Harbor Freight.  (IMHO, the most important thing to take away from this project, as it opened a lot of doors in regards to using acrylic.)
Address: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95529 (I have the standard version of this kit, not metric.)

5.  Wet sanding sand paper.  Various grits from 180 up to 400.  If you want a crystal clear look, you need to go up through 2000 or even 3000 grit and use the 3 step polish from above after that.  I didn't need that type of look for this particular project.
6.  Countersink bit for the bolts in the back.
Address: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=280540-68081-80277&lpage=none

7.  A drill bit to drill the hole out of the top for the power button.

[mccoy178]

Here are some pics of the project.  I plan to take it apart again to clean the acrylic, so I'll try to remember to take some more in depth pics.

[mccoy178]

Here are some pics of it taken apart.  The first two are just a couple shots of it at night.





Considering that there is no internal video ports, I had to improvise.  I just used a dremmel tool to cut a slot in the face plate.  It worked out perfect:


Here is the power plug port on the bottom:


The monitor section overview:


The lcd controls.  I used velcro strips to hold it down:


This is the 5 wire touchscreen plate control unit.  It is also velcro'd down to the monitor:


Here is the cold cathode setup.  The lights are super glued to the acrylic cross bars.  The control box is velcro'd to the back of the monitor:


Here is the setup for the monitor hold down brackets.  There is a bar that was welded on below the monitor and one melded above it.  Two holes were drilled into them and cross bars were made.  Using stainless steel bolts, the bars are screwed down creating a very secure fit that keeps the monitor in place.  It would take as much pressure to break the monitor as it would to break the bars, so I'm not to worried about structural integrity:



This is just showing how the monitor and pc power supply were spliced together with quick disconnects.  Three things need unplugged to separate the top from the back:
1.  The power to the cold cathodes
2.  The USB for the touchscreen plate
3.  The Power Source cable that is in my hand in this pic:


Here is the back overview:


The motherboard mounted to the wood.  I superglued the spacer nuts to the wood by securing them to the motherboard, aligning it all, and the just glued and held it down.  That way if the motherboard ever needs to come off, four screws just need to be undone and a new motherboard can go right in its place:


The harddrive mounted to a harddrive cooling fan.  At the current moment they are tacked into place with super glue.  I just need to finish up making a bracket with the kids for a more secure setup:


This is the USB ports that I robbed from a case.  I used standard motherboard standoffs to secure it to the wood:


This was created using the tap and screw set from Harbor Freight.  The holes were drilled and tapped, then cut with a table saw and band saw, then welded by sitting both the back and the top without the monitor installed on a flat surface.  Using the hole where the monitor would go, we applied the acrylic weld to the pieces and just waited for them to set up.  After they were ready, we marked were the holed needed to be drilled on the plywood, countersunk the holes and it was all over:

[polaris]

those kids are very lucky to have you as their teacher
 

[Nacimroc]

Love this! Great idea! Turned out fantastic! Thanks for posting links to the stuff aswell!

Can't wait for more pics to see how you mounted the screen in place! Can't see any holes/brackets/clamps anything holding it in place!

[RobbyMac]

Very cool.. had you planned on doing any edge lighting to make that 'jukebox' text glow?

[mccoy178]

Thanks fellas!

Very cool.. had you planned on doing any edge lighting to make that 'jukebox' text glow?

I have no plans at the current time.  After we wrap this up next week, we're on to build the Hyperpin Pinball table.......

[mccoy178]

I cut the hole for the power button tonight.  While thinking of how to make a jig for the router, I decided to try the forstner bit on a scrap piece and it cut right through it like a dream.  Took a total of about one minute.  Also, we won the door decorating contest amongst the classes.  I think this puppy might of had something to do with it.

[Franco B]

Looks great buddy  

With clear material you have to be so careful as any marks on either side will show up so respect to you!

That acrylic solvent looks interesting. I have a project for a customer where that may be ideal. How exactly do you use it?

Edit: Just been having a bit of a dig around and I found a few varieties of it [here]. It looks like in the photo you used #4, is that correct?

[mccoy178]

Thanks!  I did indeed use the #4.