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New Product: Satan's Hollow Replacement Handles - GroovyGameGear.com

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Bluedeath:
Do you think that is possible to light your handles with a UV led  inside of the stick?

MrMojoZ:

--- Quote from: 1UP on May 12, 2009, 09:04:41 pm ---Not really much choice, either one of these http://happcontrols.com/joysticks/50997000.htm  http://happcontrols.com/joysticks/95070100.htm or an old Tron/Satan's Hollow base.  Other than that, you'll have to make a custom base which a few have done, myself included.

--- End quote ---

Bleh, kills my cost window. I'll wait and see how the adaptor kits mentioned on the GGG site end up, thanks.

Xiaou2:

--- Quote ---Not relevant to this thread....
--- End quote ---

 Actually, it was relevant to the argument.  When losing an argument, you
shouldnt use the "does not belong in the thread escape".


--- Quote ---Not hard at all.  Operators shoot cleaners at the controls which leave residue, soda gets spilled, etc., etc...  Take any old control that's been in the field and open it.  Where do you think any of that filth comes from?

--- End quote ---

 Heh.  I worked in the arcade cleaning up the messes daily for 3yrs.  Im more than
familiar with how things work, get dirty...etc.   I can assure you that it due to the
position of the pivot point, it would be difficult to clog up. Gravity as
well as the overhang work against it.  Also, the metal leaf is on the backside - which
means that it can not help keep the pivot point clean.  The leaf can however
protect the microswitch from crud.  Just as I had explained before.



--- Quote ---You are quite incorrect.  I just put some digital calipers on a standard HAPP button with the big, normal, Cherry switch.  I zeroed it when it clicked.  I then opened the calipers until it released and noted the distance.  Steve, it was 1/4 mm or less, every time.  As I stated, the issue isn't the "reset" of the switch, it's the individual's ability to find it and keep the plunger there.

--- End quote ---

 I re-measured the happs cherry micro. (not too easy due to the rounded top of the
actuator)  It was no less than 3/4ths of a MM to activation.  (if not a hair bit more)   Not only that... But just as I had relayed before... you can not easily stop the activation and pull out of it when its mounted in a happs button assembly.   The switch ends up bottoming out most times, which is about 2mm travel. This is mostly due to the
force required to push the switch over the activation point + the mass of the button
assembly itself.

 A leaf switch does not have such great initial resistance, so there is no snap to overcome...thus easy to keep from bottoming out the switch.  And one can easily
bounce in and out of that paper thin area with almost no effort at all.   A micro is IMPOSSIBLE to do that with such small tolerances.   You will always get at least 3/4th mm  but more likely the full 2mm of travel per button press.  Anyone can try it - and prove it to themselves.



--- Quote ---Well, since you don't have one of the trigger assemblies and haven't tried it, I don't know how you could be.  But I am.
--- End quote ---

 Im going by scientific principles,  as well as experience between leaf and micro buttons
that I own and use.

 
 I appreciate the Option for Micro-Leafs.  However, just because that option does
exist.. .does not make it the best option.   

 If you are taking these as person attacks, then you are mistaken to do so.  Samely,
its not an attack on your product.  Its more like a case for Another Option to be
available at best... and at worst,  a simple case to show people why leafs are
important for classics... and why they are superior in gameplay in many instances.

RandyT:

--- Quote from: Xiaou2 on May 13, 2009, 07:09:59 pm --- Actually, it was relevant to the argument.  When losing an argument, you
shouldnt use the "does not belong in the thread escape".

--- End quote ---

No, your original tirade was misplaced in this thread,  No-one was talking about the tangent that you strangely headed off in.


--- Quote --- Heh.  I worked in the arcade cleaning up the messes daily for 3yrs.  Im more than familiar with how things work, get dirty...etc.   I can assure you that it due to the position of the pivot point, it would be difficult to clog up.

--- End quote ---

Then you would also know that just friction can cause small particulate matter to wear from the socket and the pivot arms, which can do the same thing.  That heavy spring is a pound of prevention.



--- Quote --- I re-measured the happs cherry micro. (not too easy due to the rounded top of the actuator)  It was no less than 3/4ths of a MM to activation. 

--- End quote ---

*sigh*  Again, you were talking about the snap reset distance and now you want to change it to the distance to activation.  Whatever, Steve.


--- Quote ---...  a simple case to show people why leafs are important for classics... and why they are superior in gameplay in many instances.

--- End quote ---

And again, wrong thread for that.  Please start your own thread if you would like to champion leaf switches for classic pushbuttons.  The topic was never brought up in this one by anyone but you.

RandyT

Xiaou2:

--- Quote ---So many may find the softer action of the replacement to be preferable over the original, especially when using the handle for games where the rate and quantity of fire is higher than the games for which these controls were originally designed.
--- End quote ---


--- Quote ---The topic was never brought up in this one by anyone but you.
--- End quote ---

 
 You brought up Opinions about original controls -vs- modified controls  and how people
seem to believe that classics do not require high fire rates.. and that the controls
are not designed for high fire rates.   All of this is BS...  to which I stated my points: 
That many people use Leafs incorrectly,  which would Lead to those poor
opinions and assumptions.



--- Quote ---Again, you were talking about the snap reset distance and now you want to change it to the distance to activation.  Whatever, Steve.
--- End quote ---

 You dont make sense to me.   A micro is Off Until it snaps.  WHen the snap has
completed - the circuit is completed.  Not before that point.  That is the entire
Point of a Micro.   To make the contact only when absolutly sure... and when that
contact is made.. it stick there until certain distance is traveled in reverse.

 The activation point  (completing a circuit)  is at least 3/4th a mm.  If you are
getting less than that, you have faulty switches which are shorting out.  It happens
when they get older and beat up.


 And, as I was saying, It doesnt even matter that it takes 3/4 mm to complete
a circuit with a typical micro... because you usually can not stop at that point due
to mechanical forces generated.  Thus end up with a 2mm distance no matter what.

 I wont comment further on this thread about this.  Ive made my points.

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