How necessary is Plexi over a CPO?

[nickynooch]

Basically, I guess I am deciding whether or not to use plexi/lexan/whatever over my control panel.  I am ordering a custom control panel overlay from mamemarquees.com but I need to know whether it is necessary to put plexi over it.

Also, which one is easy to cut and which is the most scratch resistant from plexi/lexan/etc

Thanks for the help as always!
-Nick

[opt2not]

Basically, I guess I am deciding whether or not to use plexi/lexan/whatever over my control panel.  I am ordering a custom control panel overlay from mamemarquees.com but I need to know whether it is necessary to put plexi over it.

Depends on your preference, and of course, what the material for the CPO is. I've seen some people forgo the lexan/plexi CP top, since they were able to get laminate CPOs...some people have high-quality print-outs of theirs CPO sitting under their Plexi/Lexan...

I personally like the shiny, glass-like look for my CP top. Makes it look sleek and clean!

Basically, I guess I am deciding whether or not to use plexi/lexan/whatever over my control panel.  I am ordering a custom control panel overlay from mamemarquees.com but I need to know whether it is necessary to put plexi over it.

The search button is your friend here. There are several discussion threads in this forum that debate the differences, pro & cons of Lexan/plexi/etc.

[ghettodish]

Choose Lexan over plexiglass. I shattered a lot of plexiglass before I found out that Lexan is easy to drill/route/beat on.

[Blanka]

No plexi/lexan    ! It disables the possibility for other people to see how fanatic you are. CPO's must damage on heavy use! So go for a good laminate print and try to game through it. By the way, sweaty hands on plexi is no picknick either.

I personally like the shiny, glass-like look for my CP top. Makes it look sleek and clean!

I agree on that "in theory". Except the plexi never is perfect flat, so it becomes a laughing mirror, cookie crumbles and hairs get under it and cratches, dust and grease mess up the rest. I have no experience myself with a CP, but for my Wacom tablet the plexi-part stinks. It's a restaurant underneath. And did I say the sweaty hands on the Wacom plexy sucks?

[opt2not]

I agree on that "in theory". Except the plexi never is perfect flat, so it becomes a laughing mirror, cookie crumbles and hairs get under it and cratches, dust and grease mess up the rest. I have no experience myself with a CP, but for my Wacom tablet the plexi-part stinks. It's a restaurant underneath. And did I say the sweaty hands on the Wacom plexy sucks?

Plexi, Lexan, Acrylic...whatever pseudonym there is for those plastic sheets...will all change over time/use. Whether it be scratches, discoloration, or warping...I think the question is whether to go with the plastic topped CP, or with a laminate CPO only.

But that being said, in my experience, I've never had the plexi/lexan/acrylic warp on me, and I've built large-sized CP's and small-size ones as well.  The nicest thing I like about having this material on my CP tops is that the CP is more protected with a "cheap" plastic'y cover that I have no quams over replacing from time to time. I can easily clean the cabinet (with soap and water too!) without worrying about ruining my CP underneath.  It kinda acts like a sealant.

As for the restaurant of bacteria under your wacom tablet, I'd recommend a good hand-soap, and frequent usage of it.

I've got 2 wacom tablets (at home and at work) that I've used for years, the only thing wrong with the plexi is that it's a bit scratched up over time. Mainly due to wearing my watch while sketching.

If you install Plexi/Lexan/Acrylic on your CP properly, you shouldn't have to worry about anything getting underneath it, unless some dolt spills something on  it!

[wbuschman]

One other thing to consider is what you're putting in your CP.  If you're just doing buttons and joysticks, I think you're probably good with a 3/4" panel and 1/8" plastic on top (not sure of that).  But if you're like me and have a flush-mount trackball meant for 3/4" panels, you're making more work for youself.  I personally wanted a plastic covered CP, so I routed a recessed area on the under side of my CP for the track ball.  Not a ton of extra work, but something to keep in mind.

[daok]

I did it with a 1/8 Plexiglass over a 5/8 MDF. The cut with a drill for the button on the plexi was very easy. To make a shape on the plexi, I used a jigsaw and it was also very easy, nothing broke and the plexi make the whole thing shinny. Really like it.

[nickynooch]

Thanks everyone for the advice! I think I will be attempting using plexi on my CPO.  Wish me luck!

[daok]

One more thing, after 30 minutes of play, your hand (well... always depend of your skin) will start to be more wet... I think the plexiglass is a good option because it's easy to clean it without damaging your picture. I am testing my first cabinet panel since 3 days now and I am very happy with plexi. 

[Hitek]

I know this is a little late, but wanted to relate my experience with both lexan and without. The first CP I built was a small 2 player CP for use on a gutted cab. I printed the CP overlay at Kinkos, and covered it with lexan. It was nice and shiny and durable, but didn't have that perfect authentic feel.

I just completed the 4 player CP for my showcase cab project under way, and I started out with the same plan: kinko's print under 1/8" lexan, and had actually cut/drilled the CP and lexan, printed the artwork, and had it assembled, but not wired.
Then I found a link to mamemarquees.com here, and decided to give them a try. Sent them my artwork, and a few days later I had a new CP overlay. I pretty much scrapped the old CP and the lexan and decided that the new CP overlay was going to be durable enough on it's own (I ordered the poly-carb coated material). The new CP has a much more authentic feel, and there's no worries about having to secure the lexan to the CP (no screws in the top of the CP at all)

I really can't express how much better the mamemarquees CP material is to a kinkos print, and it's actually cheaper. It cost me around $80 (including shipping) for a 49" wide CP through mamemarquees.com, and it was around $112 from Kinkos for their adhesive vinyl print, which by comparison looks horrible and washed out. That, plus the fact that I don't need a protective lexan cover makes me a happy camper.

[nickynooch]

I know this is a little late, but wanted to relate my experience with both lexan and without. The first CP I built was a small 2 player CP for use on a gutted cab. I printed the CP overlay at Kinkos, and covered it with lexan. It was nice and shiny and durable, but didn't have that perfect authentic feel.

I just completed the 4 player CP for my showcase cab project under way, and I started out with the same plan: kinko's print under 1/8" lexan, and had actually cut/drilled the CP and lexan, printed the artwork, and had it assembled, but not wired.
Then I found a link to mamemarquees.com here, and decided to give them a try. Sent them my artwork, and a few days later I had a new CP overlay. I pretty much scrapped the old CP and the lexan and decided that the new CP overlay was going to be durable enough on it's own (I ordered the poly-carb coated material). The new CP has a much more authentic feel, and there's no worries about having to secure the lexan to the CP (no screws in the top of the CP at all)

I really can't express how much better the mamemarquees CP material is to a kinkos print, and it's actually cheaper. It cost me around $80 (including shipping) for a 49" wide CP through mamemarquees.com, and it was around $112 from Kinkos for their adhesive vinyl print, which by comparison looks horrible and washed out. That, plus the fact that I don't need a protective lexan cover makes me a happy camper.

I am definately going through mamemarquees for my CPO, but do you have problems with the CPO getting dirty after hours/days/months of gameplay?

[Hitek]

Actually, because of the texture of the CPO (not completely smooth like plexi) it tends to not show dirt/oil as much as plexi does, and it's just as easy to clean with windex and a paper towel.

[nickynooch]

Actually, because of the texture of the CPO (not completely smooth like plexi) it tends to not show dirt/oil as much as plexi does, and it's just as easy to clean with windex and a paper towel.

Sweet!  No peeling either?  So in your opinion is there any reason to use plexi at all?

[Hitek]

Not with the poly carb material. And if you follow the instructions that come with it (ie. prime and paint the surface if you're going to be using it on wood) you should be good to go. The material is relatively thick, so peeling isn't an issue, and that also means it's much more rigid during application, resulting in way less chance of bubbling. In fact, I'd say you either have to be very careless or actually TRYING in order to get bubbles.

[nickynooch]

Sweet!  I think I'll do the no plexi (or at least plan not to).  Thanks for all the help!

[Xiaou2]

 Something you should know about printed coverings...  is that with time, they will
become brittle, crack, rip, break off in pieces.   The glue that holds them will loosen
at times too.  Making the process accelerate. 

 As the material cracks, it forms sharp edges that cut into your hands.  So, you
will start to rip off the protruding pieces.  However, in only a short time, more
of the overlay raises and cuts into your hands again.

  The cracking usually starts at the edge... where the material is just too stiff to
handle the 90 degree (or even beveled) bend.  The tension eventually causes the
glue to separate.. raising the material. .. which allows it to slide and get pushed
around.  The oils and grime on your hands help to accelerate the breakdown as well.

 This is a PROVEN thing.

 I used to Manage an arcade.  The stuff was Horrible without plexi covering.

 And that texture... It starts to collect nasty dirt and grime from peoples sweaty
dirty hands. It get ground in, and very hard and in some cases impossible to remove
completely.

 Now, lets say the art starts to crack... you will then have to spend hours
removing all the parts, scraping the stuck on glue parts, sanding the surface flat
again... and then re-printing new artwork. 

 It was rare that much got under the plexi.   Even when drinks spilled, it usually
just rolled right off onto the floor.  The entry point would be too high for most
grime to get under the plexi... and the sides are touching the cabinet sides...
and the bottom? It isnt even possible unless someone intentionally stuffs
something in there.   Usually a small coin was puhsed in, and was removed
fairly easily with a Popsicle stick or something like that.

 All of the new Kits in our arcade came with plexi sheets to put over the control
panels.  Saved us tons of hassle. Easy as pie to clean.. and stood up to years of
night and day tortures.

 
 Btw - Plexi cracks easily.. yet is more scratch resistant.  Lexan is easy to work with,
but scratches too easily.  Plexi is what was used in arcades, and is the preferred
material.

[nickynooch]

Now you got me back to putting plexi over my CPO haha.  I guess you could say I'm indecisive.  This really is becoming a great discussion over the pros and cons, so thank you to everyone for letting me know the issues of each method!

[Bender]

Not with the poly carb material. And if you follow the instructions that come with it (ie. prime and paint the surface if you're going to be using it on wood) you should be good to go. The material is relatively thick, so peeling isn't an issue, and that also means it's much more rigid during application, resulting in way less chance of bubbling. In fact, I'd say you either have to be very careless or actually TRYING in order to get bubbles.

I have to totally agree

the old stuff from the arcade is not the same as the new polycabonate (this stuff is rated for outdoor exposure for like 30 years without cracking, the texture is super subtle and I think it is awsome. It whipes clean easaily, I've had a CP covered with the stuff for over a year and no problems at all, Actually people always comment on how nice it looks and feels, now given I'm
not running an arcade where hundreds of people are playing 12 hours a day, but it gets its fair bit of abuse

and I just hate those fingerprints your constantly wiping of on the plexi

just one man's opinion

PS: I have a scrap of it, if you want me to send it to you so you can try it out PM me your address

[Hitek]

Xiaou2 has some valid points, but I don't think many of us here are going to be running a full time arcade, loaded with kids. My last cab got maybe 4-8 hours of use a week, and that was by myself and friends, not random strangers who don't respect property. I'm thinking about the same with the new cab. I think with regular cleaning, and care, the polycarb stuff from mamemarquees can last for years. As Bender pointed out, the polycarb material is rated for outdoor exposure for a LONG time, and just like Bender, I hate cleaning fingerprints from plexi

[ViciousXUSMC]

I am using contact paper

Its holding up very well and its dark so no dirt/grim can show on it.  It does not get slick with sweat and seems very durable.  If it ever did get messed up I was only out $5!!! thats how much a roll of this stuff from ebay was to make 2x CP covers.

If you like that shiny plastic cover though I think plexi is better than lexan.  Its a big harder to work with as it can crack/chip but its more durable, cheaper, and wont scratch as easy.

I found via somebody elses recommendation that plexi is actually easy to work with if you have a router, the sheer speed of the router melts & cuts away the plexi so fast that it does not make it crack/chip.  I got one of those el cheapo $25 laminate trimmers from Harbor Frieght and its been my best friend for the plexiglass project boxes I am building.

[doctorhifi]

I also have a mamemarquee's overlay on my cp and it gets heavy usage.  18 months since I installed it and it looks as good as it did when I first took it out of the box.  Heavy duty stuff, that polycarb.

[Haterot]

If you decide to forgo the 1/8" plexi are you still using 5/8" board for the cp and forgoing t-molding (3/4" width) or using the thicker board?

[nickynooch]

If you decide to forgo the 1/8" plexi are you still using 5/8" board for the cp and forgoing t-molding (3/4" width) or using the thicker board?

Well I think I decided to forgo the plexi.  I'll see how it looks I guess when I order the stuff.  From the reviews here, seems like plexi isn't too necessary, since I am getting a mamemarquee printed polycarbonate overlay.

I kinda didn't use the 5/8 board.  I used 3/4 inch all around the cabinet.  I went with the design from the 24 hour arcade cabinet site.
http://chris.polymathic.net/cabinet/index.shtml

I made quite a few variations, but as far as the general style, I'd say my control panel looks similar to that, but I don't have any buttons on the front.