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Wiring Coin door to turn on PC - Microswitch?

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johnnyr:
This may seem like a stupid question....but what size disconnect would I use?

Thanks again for the info!

jasonbar:

--- Quote from: johnnyr on March 25, 2009, 04:31:44 pm ---This may seem like a stupid question....but what size disconnect would I use?

Thanks again for the info!

--- End quote ---

Size what?  Wire gauge quick disconnect, or crimper?  :]

Wire gauge: skinny.  18-24AWG or so (off the top of my head--see what the rest of your cabinet uses for reference)

Quick disconnect: buy something like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103313&cp or you can go insulated if you want (not really necessary) & buy something like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?parentPage=family&cp=2032058.2032231.2032283&productId=2103502&tab=summary.  As for size, measure the width of your tab on your microswitch & buy the matching quick disconnect.  Or bring your switch into a store & do a test fit or hold them up side-by-side for comparison.  Don't go too big on the quick disconnect or it can weasel its way off the switch tab.

Crimper: just get a generic universal one like the one I linked to.  It can accommodate a range of sizes, as well as insulated/not insulated.

-Jason

johnnyr:

--- Quote from: jasonbar on March 25, 2009, 04:38:44 pm ---
--- Quote from: johnnyr on March 25, 2009, 04:31:44 pm ---This may seem like a stupid question....but what size disconnect would I use?

Thanks again for the info!

--- End quote ---

Size what?  Wire gauge quick disconnect, or crimper?  :]

Wire gauge: skinny.  18-24AWG or so (off the top of my head--see what the rest of your cabinet uses for reference)

Quick disconnect: buy something like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103313&cp or you can go insulated if you want (not really necessary) & buy something like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?parentPage=family&cp=2032058.2032231.2032283&productId=2103502&tab=summary.  As for size, measure the width of your tab on your microswitch & buy the matching quick disconnect.  Or bring your switch into a store & do a test fit or hold them up side-by-side for comparison.  Don't go too big on the quick disconnect or it can weasel its way off the switch tab.

Crimper: just get a generic universal one like the one I linked to.  It can accommodate a range of sizes, as well as insulated/not insulated.

-Jason

--- End quote ---

Jason you are awesome. Thank you sir.

I'm building my cab this weekend as the last of the parts I need are coming on Friday, so I will be sure to let everyone know how it goes.

Thanks!

jasonbar:
Happy to help when it's actually a topic that I know something about (rare!).

(I've wired up lots o' robots in my years)

-Jason

javeryh:

--- Quote from: Kayden on March 25, 2009, 03:47:28 pm ---
I set mine up the opposite of this.  Instead of being activated by the red arm, I set mine up to be deactivated by the white arm.  I just wired the switch as NC and glued it flush to the white arm. 

A potential problem I saw with J's design was that someone could push too hard and maybe break something loose.  Also, I didn't have to make a shim, it just sat flush.
--- End quote ---

That's a cool idea - I made sure that the coin button is pressed all the way in to activate the cherry so there's absolutely no way to push too hard...

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