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Fuses for fluorescent lights?

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protokatie:
Randy brings up a good point, but I still say that if you are unsure (in which case Randy pointed out that you should have a professional do it instead) then put inline fuses in. Basically it works out this way: (In pseudo-code)

Const I_am_unsure = True(bool);



If I_am_unsure = True {


   If randy = true {
    hire_a_professional();
   }

   If protokatie = true {
    add_extra_protection();
   }

   if cab_has_many_potentially_loose_wires_and_may_be_moved_often = true {
    add_extra_protection();
   }

}

If I_am_unsure = false {
   I_only_asked_this_question_for_clarity();
   Have_fun_wiring();
}

EDIT: Randy didnt actually say to hire a professional, but the way he pointed out about AC wiring, I would assume that if such was the case, he would suggest a licensed and insured professional.. (Not like Randy would have harped on me for presuming he would suggest such a thing, just adding for clarity)

Malenko:
run a line from the junction box but put a simple inline breaker between the box and the lights.
if you REALLY have your doubts buy some of those 12V LED marquee lights

Necro:
Hehe, I can either run the fluor's to a plug then plug that into a power strip or I can run the fluor's to a terminal strip that's wired into the AC junction box I will put into the box.  The terminal strip is the only real difference and potential for issues in this entire setup, and my question more or less was this (as I'm realizing now)...

If you have a flourescent fixture that your converting from direct wired to plug in, do you need to add a fuse somewhere in line for any reason that I'm completely missing at this point in time?

RandyT:

--- Quote from: Necro on January 11, 2009, 06:39:59 pm ---If you have a flourescent fixture that your converting from direct wired to plug in, do you need to add a fuse somewhere in line for any reason that I'm completely missing at this point in time?

--- End quote ---

No.  The only "fuse" that would normally be used with that fixture would be the one the household circuit connected to in your homes distribution box.  More than likely, a circuit breaker in that case.  If your cabinet is properly wired, that same breaker would protect the whole cabinet , and anything else on that circuit.  When I say "properly wired", I mean proper connections, good insulation, a junction box and wire gauges appropriate for the loads they are intended to carry.  If in doubt, leave the plugs on your components and plug them all into into properly designed and industry approved, breaker protected power strips.

Also keep in mind that fuses and breakers are only useful for protection against direct short circuits and overloading.  I've had one very scary situation in one of my previous homes with a commercial Bunn coffee maker.  The plug was old and apparently in bad enough shape for the AC to arc between the prongs.  It wasn't enough of a short to trip a breaker / fuse, so it just arced and burned everything in-between.  Fortunately, I was right there when the smoke and fire started and yanked the cord (leaving one the charred prongs in the outlet.

A little off topic, but it illustrates why fuses can't be relied upon to always "save the day".  They only protect against one specific type of issue.  The best protection is knowing what you are doing and using safe and accepted practices, especially when handling AC line current.

Necro:
Thanks all.  And, Randy, that's what I plan on doing - following all the wiring guidelines/regs when doing the cabinet wiring.  I've actually gone through and rewired a number of the sockets/switches in my house as they were done quickly with the push in wiring 'holes' that are on them and I dislike the possibility that presents compared to a nice pigtailed connection on a screw terminal with electrical tape around it. 

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