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WTF? $ 4500 (you serious?)
drawfull:
To add to what's gone before, if it was local to me, if the £ was stronger, I think it's a good deal. I have 5 dedicated machines which cost me about £6k all told. I can't remember. But they are MINT.
This IS MINT TOO although it's not clear if custom art is £££ extra. £2.5 - 3k with the backup, support and dedication is a fair price TO ME, and I hope he gets its true worth. Shiiite, the juke we're doing for the mrs already stands me at £800+, and that doesn't include the laptop which was £700+VAT a couple of years ago!!!!
BASS!:
I wasn't really charging for the tools. The only tools I used and didn't just borrow was a jigsaw and a hand drill. Table saw, drill press, skill saw, and belt sander were the neighbors. The monitor is a Mitsubishi multisync. It will actually take all the way from 200x200 - 720x480 interlaced of course. I think I could get it to go higher but you have to completely recalibrate the size settings for 800x600 and up.
I mostly put the art option in to gauge what the client wants. If they have a paint that matches their house I could use that, or if they have a video game character they like I could design that as well. If they want a vinyl space invaders backdrop then they tell me. It only costs about 150 for a set of side art, if they were serious, I would definitely throw it in for good will. I have already lost all the money I am going to loose, selling it just seems like a good idea to help fund my other endeavors.
Popcorrin:
The Mitsubishi's are pretty versatile. Most of them run all the way up to 1024x768 and sometimes 1280x1024. I had one and I had to do just like you said, resize, but it saved the settings so it worked out great. How did you get that monitor to fit in that cab? The one I had was box shaped and pretty thick. Doesn't look like that cab is deep enough to fit it?
BASS!:
The monitor has 2 frames. I removed the plastic casing which comes all the way up to the bezel. From there I pulled out a blanket and my handy dremel tool and removed about 3 1/2 inches of plastic that the crt mounts to, and put it inside the monitor inside the cab. The original monitor mounting brackets I then reused as a ramp set to an angle so that the front of the screen is even with the tilt of the cabinet. From there I used metal fence / deck brackets to secure the monitor from sliding further back. Even with all the parts removed the monitor probably still weighs in at around 200lbs (my ultimate max dead weight capacity). I essentially set it on the edge of the ramp and used truck tie downs to ease it into position and screwed everything together. The max of this monitor is around 1280x1024 (but the avga will only output these resolutions over its dvi connector, so 15khz resolutions only) I run xp on it at 720x480 and mame games default 640x240 (it does autoswitch though). There is a couple resolutions that do have issues, but I have completely removed them from mame, so it is able to do all the others. If memory serves it will not run X x 255 (mortal kombat right?) but that is a easy stretch.
Ummon:
--- Quote from: DaveMMR on November 13, 2008, 07:01:41 am ---
--- Quote from: Ummon on November 12, 2008, 09:34:46 pm ---
--- Quote from: Cakemeister on November 11, 2008, 07:22:26 pm ---Angled joysticks were not the way to go, IMO.
--- End quote ---
Though there are some who feel this way regarding CPs in general, it seems nearly a consensus with regard to 4-player panels. Why?
--- End quote ---
It's been discussed numerous times on the forum, but let's just say that 99.9997% of commercial arcade games keep joysticks in the same orientation (even 4-p games). There's probably a reason for that. ;)
--- End quote ---
I for some reason was thinking sloped panel, as it seems most people who do 4P panels make them flat.
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