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Randy T.: Can an LED-Wiz be used to drive pinball solenoids ???
AndyWarne:
--- Quote from: yugffuts on September 30, 2008, 01:05:50 pm ---
If someone like Randy or Andy, who have a history of putting out specialized quality products, put out a pinball driver board which handled the basic I/O for lamps, switches, and solenoid driving, with a simple write up for what's required (power supply, ports, etc), and some sample code, the whole BYOP market would begin to evolve. It's this first step that needs to be taken and offered for sale. Thus far, the people that have taken this step have not made the information available, so every BYOP project requires the fabrication of custom hardware.
--- End quote ---
The problem with output drivers is they need to be supported by whatever software is being used to generate the output. I have posted on a couple of pinball message boards about the Pac-Drive and mentioned the availability of the API code which can be used by developers to drive it. But then its up to the developers to implement this code.
I am not sure if this has been done in any pinball program, but if and when it is, I will add a pinball section on the product page.
It might be that there have been developments I am not aware of, so if so, drop me a line.
Andy
shmokes:
--- Quote from: mark shaker on September 30, 2008, 08:50:05 pm ---
Check out Sybil at: http://www.marksarcade.com/
--- End quote ---
How do you get more than three panels to fit on your rotating mechanism? Did you ever take any side-shots (pictures, I mean) of your panels before installing them in the cab. When I look at your cab from in front it doesn't look like it would be possible to have four panels hiding inside.
dmworking247:
--- Quote from: yugffuts on September 30, 2008, 01:05:50 pm ---If someone like Randy or Andy, who have a history of putting out specialized quality products, put out a pinball driver board which handled the basic I/O for lamps, switches, and solenoid driving, with a simple write up for what's required (power supply, ports, etc), and some sample code, the whole BYOP market would begin to evolve. It's this first step that needs to be taken and offered for sale. Thus far, the people that have taken this step have not made the information available, so every BYOP project requires the fabrication of custom hardware.
--- End quote ---
I agree 100%.
I've quietly been watching this thread as I've wanted to embark upon a BYO-pinball project for over a year now. I've got the theme, the layout, the rules etc all designed... but the number 1 issue preventing me from starting this project (which I'm sure will take 1-2 years) is an output controller.
There are a couple of custom jobs around the internet, and I'm sure those with high degrees of electronic knowledge could work something out... but I'm after an 'off the shelf' device that can be activated by PC, and activate a genuine pinball part, preferably without the need for expensive switching relays on every component.
RandyT:
The LED-Wiz drivers support up to 50v DC at 500ma per output. Modulation can be turned off, but depends upon the software to support it. An intensity setting of 49 will do this, so this setting cannot be capped. I think MikeQ's DLL originally capped this value at 48, but he opened it up in a later release.
I think the big thing that folks need to think about with the BYOPB projects are latency. I'm a pretty avid pinball fan, and I think I can safely say that any latency at all would be disturbing to me while playing. So all of this needs to be considered while designing the machine and deciding on how to approach the playfield mechanics. Software control of lights, novelty items, kick holes and other non-timing crucial items is absolutely fine, but actuation of things like flippers and bumpers should be tied directly to the circuitry that senses contact with the ball / button presses.
You can still use inputs to monitor what is happening at the device (such as how long a flipper is being held, and cutting the power down after a second or two to prevent burning out the coil, etc.) but you probably wouldn't want the button to have to go through the software interface before engaging the solenoid for the flipper. This is, of course, theory, but this is how the big boys design(ed) their machines, even with specialized control hardware that should theoretically have less latency than the PC / USB software approach.
RandyT
mark shaker:
--- Quote from: RandyT on October 01, 2008, 11:44:18 am ---The LED-Wiz drivers support up to 50v DC at 500ma per output. Modulation can be turned off, but depends upon the software to support it. An intensity setting of 49 will do this, so this setting cannot be capped. I think MikeQ's DLL originally capped this value at 48, but he opened it up in a later release.
I think the big thing that folks need to think about with the BYOPB projects are latency. I'm a pretty avid pinball fan, and I think I can safely say that any latency at all would be disturbing to me while playing. So all of this needs to be considered while designing the machine and deciding on how to approach the playfield mechanics. Software control of lights, novelty items, kick holes and other non-timing crucial items is absolutely fine, but actuation of things like flippers and bumpers should be tied directly to the circuitry that senses contact with the ball / button presses.
You can still use inputs to monitor what is happening at the device (such as how long a flipper is being held, and cutting the power down after a second or two to prevent burning out the coil, etc.) but you probably wouldn't want the button to have to go through the software interface before engaging the solenoid for the flipper. This is, of course, theory, but this is how the big boys design(ed) their machines, even with specialized control hardware that should theoretically have less latency than the PC / USB software approach.
RandyT
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Randy,
Thank you for the info on the LED-Wiz and the reminder about latency.
Another thing to keep in mind is that flipper coils are 2-in-1. A timed powerful coil to move the flipper and a much less powerful hold coil to keep the flipper in the up position as long as the switch is held. (The powerful coil would burn-out, if it remains on as long as the switch is held.)
- Mark
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