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$9 'Super Easy' USB Controller hack for MAME
Beretta:
guys dont discount the analog sticks, i can think of a lot of useful hacks for not one but TWO analog sticks not to mention all the inputs you can squeeze out of a single pad.
example: one of the projects i'd like to do is find a dead positional gun cabinet.. terminator 2, rev-x, etc
they use analog joysticks they're not real light guns, a single pad could supply 2 guns + all control/coin/service buttons needed.
although i've never done it since i dont have a positional gun to toy with it should be a simple matter of wiring up the pot's
and although it's not "arcade authentic" you could use positional guns in place of actual light guns for light gun games, then no worries about what kind of display you have or rather or not your gun will work.
btw does anyone know where you can buy positional gun replacements? preferably t2 since it has recoil? i know a few people have made hacks for recoil in mame with t2.
nice condition gutted t2 cab on ebay for like 75bucks but way to far for me to drive :(
sinkhead:
--- Quote from: jholman76 on July 02, 2009, 07:47:43 pm ---wow, that looks deliciously easy to hack. how is the USB cable connection to the PCB? is it solid? the last pad I got from DX actually came apart there so I had to re-solder and hot glue it down.
--- End quote ---
Yep, it's solid. There's already glue over the connection on the back.
wachin:
Thanks for the updates w/ the $6 controllers! I just got mine and found them really easy to hack. I just soldered 1 common ground for Left, Down and the 10 buttons and then a separate ground for the Up & Right and all is good. Now if only my order for my joystick and buttons from Lizardlick would arrive... even with the SF4 backorders, I was sure that a LL order would get here much sooner than a Dealextreme order...
IG-88:
Ya, mine took 11 days.
Forgive my ignorance but why couldn't you use just one ground?
wachin:
Like its been mentioned before, the D-pad is matrixed, so when you look at the leads, the Left & Right are the same. This is also the case with the Up & Down. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I guess the thinking here from the manufacturer is that it's impossible to press both Left & Right simultaneously. Same for Up & Down. So they're actually the same but the uncommon ground differentiates the two (or something along those lines?)
Anyway, the attached photo shows where I soldered my 2 grounds and the directional buttons.
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