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Speaker hack and electrical pass-through questions
solowCX:
Two questions, mostly concerning some electrical things.
First off, I ended up purchasing some speakers for my current cab build that met most of major requirements (right size, fair price and external wired controls), but noticed when I got them home that they have a soft power switch on the wired controls. Essentially, whenever they lose power, the power button has to be pressed again for them to work. The reason this is a problem is that I bought a Bits Limited auto-switching surge protector and would like to be able to turn the speakers off in order to get rid of the speaker humming. I have read some people have hacked their TV power switches to stay on all the time, so I was hoping something similar could be done for these speakers.
The power switch itself is very 'clicky' in nature, similar to how it feels to click on the left or right analog control sticks on an Xbox or Xbox 360 controller. I opened up the controls and took some pictures, which can be seen below. If someone knows a way to make these stay on as long as there is power I would really appreciate it.
Secondly, I have seen some projects in the past have had a sort of electrical passthrough on the backsides of the cabinet in which a standard removable electrical cord can be plugged in (like most computers). Ideally I would like something that could be installed into a hole in the cabinet that would have this outlet on the outside and have a plug for my surge protector on the inside. Does such a device exist, and if so, what is it called? Or what components are needed to assemble something like that?
Thanks for the help everyone.
Blanka:
This board looks like it has very simple stuff on it. Nothing audiophile. No (pre)amps on this. I only see 2 potmeters that probably change the volume/balance. The transistors with resistors probably work as a electronic on-off switch. So why don't you get rid of this board completely? Set the volume with the computer, and connect the sound signal and power through directly (what are the six cables coming in?).
Can you photograph the amplifier as well? If it is a single-chip switching amplifier (D-class), then there is no big deal in leaving it on permanent, as power-use in idle is very low on these amps.
Blanka:
Look among these items:
http://nl.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=retrieveTfg&Ne=4294957974&N=4294954277
RS-Online has worldwide offices, so don't be fooled by this dutch site.
solowCX:
Ideally I would like to still use this board, as one of the reasons I chose this set was for the external controls. I was merely hoping there might be some simple way to rig the power button to always be "on," thus turning the speakers on whenever power is restored.
The left/right speakers and control board actually all end up meeting at the end of their strands into what looks to be a standard serial connector. I am assuming that the 6 cords going into the board are for left/right speakers, headphone jack and possibly subwoofer (as you can control the bass level from this board). A picture is attached of the connector going into the subwoofer.
As for the power modules you linked to, there are definitely a lot of choices there... I really don't have a lot of electrical experience though, so forgive me for asking if there might just be one that you can just plug a standard male 3 prong US adapter into on the back? I can't really tell from the angles of the pictures, but I am guessing that these would need to be wired?
Thanks.
Blanka:
Then you probably need to draw a scheme of the whole board and post it here. Guess it has 2 sections. Audio-control and power-on-logic. The second one must be quite to disable.
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