Arcade Collecting > Pinball

My First Pin - Flight 2000 (Pics)

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ChadTower:

That game is probably too old to have a transistor matrix driving the coils.  Either the coils will be wired straight to their power sources or they will be driven by an IC (or a couple of them).

shardian:
The flippers not working sounds like a tilt/slam tilt issue. That would also explain the game shutting down immediately.
I'm not familiar with Stern games, but you might want to check the section on possible tilt issues.

shardian:

--- Quote from: pinballjim on April 10, 2008, 10:02:22 am ---
--- Quote from: ChadTower on April 10, 2008, 09:30:04 am ---That game is probably too old to have a transistor matrix driving the coils.  Either the coils will be wired straight to their power sources or they will be driven by an IC (or a couple of them).

--- End quote ---

 :dizzy:

No.


Anyway, flippers on that game are controlled by a relay.  The first step would be to jump the relay and see if you get flipper power.  That will eliminate power and wiring problems from the suspect list. 



--- End quote ---

Yeah, I didn't get that either. On my pin, there is a game over relay and a tilt relay. The tilt relay will kill power to all of the non-cpu controlled coils, which includes the flipper coils. It also kills GI lighting.
Which brings me to my next evidence - you said "about half the lights on the PF need replacing". Are you sure? You might have a stuck tilt switch, thus killing power to those lights.

Neverending Project:
The game does have a solenoid driver board, not a relay matrix controlling the coils. But there is a relay for the coils as pinballjim stated. I will check the relay. It is possible that either the coil has shorted, and hence the transistor could have fried.

I put the game into its test mode, where it fires the solenoids in succession one at a time. Since it will cycle through all the solenoids and some of them don't fire, I can assume the problem is not a stuck tilt or slam switch. Likewise for the PF lights.

Here is the section from marvin3m on testing a coil:

--- Quote ---In order to check coil resistance, put your DMM on its lowest resistance setting. Then put the DMM's red and black leads on each coil's lugs. A resistance of 2.5 ohms or greater should be seen. Anything less than 2.5 ohms, and the coil and/or driving transistor may be bad. Now remove the wire from one of the lugs of the coil, and test the coil again. If the resistance is still the same (low), the coil or diode is bad (and also perhaps the driving transistor). If the resistance is higher than 2.5 ohms, the coil is good but the solenoid driver board transistor is shorted and will need to be replaced. Lastly, the coil's 1N4004 diode could be shorted too, giving a false low coil resistance. Cut one diode leg from a coil lug and retest the coil's ohms.
--- End quote ---

So I test the resistance of the coil and see around 2.5 Ohms. Great. Now assuming I remove one of the leads (they're soldered on) and test again, what should I see? He says if the resistance is the same the coil or diode is bad, and if the resistance is higher then the transistor is shorted. So what will a good coil look like?

Anyway, thanks for the help and encouragement. This is fun!

Neverending Project:
Just a little lunchtime update for those following...

The Good
I reconnected the speaker and lo and behold, the sound works. The speech works too. I am not sure why it was cut, but obviously someone didn't want the machine to make any sound... I found some shorted switches in one of the drop target assemblies, so I moved the pin to fix those. I also found a disconnected wire on the outhole solenoid, so I reconnected it. When I powered up the machine, now the sound works, and the flippers do too, sort of...

The Bad
The flipper assemblies have both mechanical and electrical issues. They stick on, both mechanically and electrically. So they will need to be rebuilt, or replaced. All but one of the score displays "flickers". The numbers "roll" across the screen, so I will need to investigate further.

The Ugly
I had the game on for a few minutes trying to simulate gameplay by pressing some switches. That's when I noticed some smoke coming from the back of the PF. I quickly turned it off and unplugged the machine. At least one of the coils burned, as is evident by the charred paper wrap and the smoke coming from it. I am not entirely sure why, and I ran out of time to play with it.

So it is back to the beginning to check all the voltages past the rectifier. I am not sure why a fuse didn't blow. And yes, I did check that the correct fuse values were installed. Even the slo-blo under the playfield.

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