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Is Mike's DK replacement joystick decent?

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Ginsu Victim:
I'll second that:
BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

pcb:

--- Quote from: rrcade on March 14, 2008, 02:25:02 pm ---
I Apologize, I didn't realize there where two sizes, I just ordered 4 orange buttons for my Punch Out and Mario Bros and they were very tight in both.
--- End quote ---

No apology needed!  I'm just sorry we didn't catch the mistake before shipping the buttons out to you.

 - Mike -

ArcadEd:
I realize the mouting my be different, but have you considered a Sanwa JLF in 4 way mode?  Then are very loose sticks.

You might need to make a custom plate for it to line up in the same holes though.  Just a thought.

MaximRecoil:

--- Quote from: ArcadEd on March 15, 2008, 12:16:34 am ---I realize the mouting my be different, but have you considered a Sanwa JLF in 4 way mode?  Then are very loose sticks.

You might need to make a custom plate for it to line up in the same holes though.  Just a thought.

--- End quote ---

That's probably what I would get if I wanted something other than the OEM joystick. BTW, you can get the JLF with the Nintendo-style mounting pattern:


--- Quote ---Sanwa JLF-TP-8T Ball Handle Joystick, 4 & 8-Way Adjustable
 
This is an awesome Japanese joystick, using high-quality construction and micro-switches, it is adjustable for 4 and 8 way operation. Ideally suited for metal or wood control panels. Non-standard mounting holes for panels with tight spaces, and also a perfect fit for Nintendo control panels. Incorporates Sanwa's simple "screw-on" ball handle design, and a unique pcb-mounted switch design with wiring harness. No need to run a ground wire to all the switches! Includes installed mounting plate, wiring harness, shaft disk and ball top color of your choice from below.

$29.95 *SALE* $24.95

http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/pages/joysticks.shtml
--- End quote ---

blkdog7:
Well I took the joystick completely apart and cleaned the living heck out of it. Tons of grease and grime were removed and the thing was looking like new. I lubed up the little bearing thing with some silicone spray and put it all together.

Powered up the machine then took it for a test spin.... It was exactly the same as it was before. Just overall hard to use. It worked, but took too much effort.

Then I decided to remove this....


Voila! It's like a new joystick! It's FAST, it's responsive, it's everything I dreamed it could be. Turns out that little rubber piece on the joystick shaft and below the ball was just too tight against the guard and was creating a lot of friction.

So, now my next question...

Shouldn't the stick be just as smooth with that guard on? The way my machine was I had the clear guard above the CPO, a black one below the CPO, stick goes through, then on the bottom I had a washer/flange piece then the spring, then the barrel then the c-clip. Isn't that how it's supposed to be?

How do you guys roll? Guard above the CPO or no guard above the CPO? I really liked how it looked with the clear guard above the CPO. It made it look real clean and finished.

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