pocket screws

[GadgetGeek]

OK, I'm pretty sure I'm going to invest in a Kreg pocket hole jig.  But before I do, a few questions from those who use these.
I'm thinking I'll only be using these on one or two projects a year (I know, I'll dream up reasons to use them once I own the jig).

So given that info, what level of kit do I get?  Do I get just the single hole jig and a clamp?  It would mean more clamping/unclamping, but if I"m only using this a couple times a year, it is worth it to step up?

Do I have to use "their" screws or can I use something generic?  I guess given limited usage, it won't kill me to be forced into their screws.

I assume that glue is also used to strengthen the joint.

Thanks for any guidance/suggestions/abuse you are willing to share.

[Rusty]

I'd recommend picking up the R3 kit and a face clamp.

I just bought this same setup as a gift for a friend of mine who will use it for occasional projects around the house, just random things like building a bookcase and the like.

The R3 is one of Kreg's newer versions of the jig, unlike the similarly priced R2 ('3' denotes the line number,  the K3 is also a new jig)  .  The biggest difference that I noticed was the depth adjustment feature.  Now you simply slide the collar up or down for different wood thicknesses.  The R3 also comes with a handy storage case.

Personally, I'd shy away from the single hole jig because of the lack of depth adjustment (outside of using a collar on the drill bit).  And because I always talk myself into buying the more expensive stuff! 

Kreg screws a basically just self-tapping wood screws, at least any that I've used.  I've always used their screws, but I don't really see much of a problem using any self tappers.  

And unless you're in a hurry, I'd wait for Amazon to have another sale on them before buying one.  A few weeks ago they were 20% off.

[ScottS]

If you're only going to use the jig for a couple of projects a year, there's no need to buy a super-expensive jig. The R3 kit that Rusty recommends is a pretty good start, though you could just as easily get by with the single-hole "Mini" jig. For that matter, you don't even have to go with a Kreg! There are plenty of other people that manufactuer pocket-hold jigs. Kreg is certainly the best-known, but if all you need is a single-hole jig you might be just as well off with a knock-off.

As Rusty mentions, you'll need clamps to go with your jig. Having a face clamp is a must. If you're going to join large pieces together, you may need more than one clamp. If you want to make right-angle joints, and you will, I highly recommend Kreg's right-angle clamp. It's expensive, but definitely worth it. Again, if you're going to join large pieces you might want two of these clamps.

As far as screws, you can buy them from anyone. You need to make sure they're self-tapping, have a washer head, and the right type of threads (coarse threads for plywood/MDF/MDO, fine threads for hardwood). Square-drive screws tend to work the best. Last time I looked, Kreg's screws were pretty competitively priced. McFeely's also sells many different types of pocket-hole screws.

Finally, you absolutely must use glue along with screws if you want your pocket-hole joints to have any strength. All the screws really do is hold your piece together wil the glue dries; they don't add a whole lot of strength themselves.

[NiteWalker]

Here's my recommendation for a great pocket hole jig. The Kreg K3 Standard kit is a great starting point. Yes, a bit pricey at $75, but that particular model leaves room for expansion. Not only that but it includes a premium face clamp. I suggested that model because of the expandability (which I'll get to in a minute) and also because of the drill block itself. I think it's one of the better ones because it has 3 different holes for spacing a set of 2 pocket holes in a lot of different width materials.

As for the expandability, you can purchase the Kreg K3 Upgrade Kit that turns it into the Kreg K3 Master Kit. That's the one I have. I also purchased an additional premium face clamp, 2 right angle clamps, some screws, DVD's, t-track and support stops when amazon had the 20% off sale. I saved about $60.

I'd avoid the simpler kits. They just don't offer the flexibility of the more elaborate jigs. I know I'd be lost without my K3 Master kit.

Also, I wouldn't worry about spending too much on a pocket hole jig. Once you get one and see how quick and easy it makes putting projects together you'll likely be using it on almost every project. That's how I place value on a tool; rather than value it by its purchase price I gauge it's value by how much it's used. In that sense, even cheap tools can be valuable. My scratch awl, for instance, was only $5 and I use it on every project. $5 well spent.

I disagree that glue is a must with pocket hole joinery. The screws hold very strongly if the right kind are used (fine threads for hard woods, coarse for everything else). I'd still use glue too though. It doesn't hurt anything and adds strength. On their own, though, pocket screws are very strong.

Kreg's screws are made specifically for their system so I see no need to shop elsewhere for cheaper screws. They're priced low enough (around $20 for a box of 1000) where it would be a minimal amount of savings anyway. I stick to Kreg's brand and got all my pocket hole screws and items from amazon.com.

The main things to remember with pocket hole joinery are to use a drill that can reach 2000 or higher RPMs (this usually limits you to corder drills), use the right screw length for the job (1 1/4" is the most used as it's the proper screw for 3/4" material), use the right kind of screw (again, I recommend Kreg's brand of pocket hole screws) for the wood being joined (fine thread in hardwoods and coarse thread in everything else), and use the right clamps for the job. Kreg's face clamps and their right angle clamps are wonderful. Using the right type and length of screw is critical. I've seen some instances where drywall screws were used, the joint split and the user wonders why.

Hope this helps out some.
 

[ScottS]

I disagree that glue is a must with pocket hole joinery. The screws hold very strongly if the right kind are used (fine threads for hard woods, coarse for everything else). I'd still use glue too though. It doesn't hurt anything and adds strength. On their own, though, pocket screws are very strong.

I've tested pocket-hole joints to failure. Believe me: joints that include glue in addition to screws are much stronger. This is particularly true in engineered woods like MDF and particle board. Plywood tends to be stronger, but even there glue provides a big improvement in strength. The manual that came with my Kreg K2000 stated that using glue was a requirement and based on my experience I tend to agree with them...

[GadgetGeek]

Great info all.  Now to watch for another decent sale.