Arcade Collecting > Miscellaneous Arcade Talk
Midway Arcade Cabinet by Big Electronic Games
andy4sandy:
Now with 14 inch TFT, Jamma Board, 30 Watt Speaker, and LEDs. Work fine :-)
andy4sandy:
--- Quote from: EVEGames on March 16, 2011, 02:16:59 am ---May the forum gods forgive me, I am knowingly posting to a 4+ year old topic. But I deem it appropriate in this instance, because the original post by VR Junkie gives the reader many tools to accomplish a specific task, and I want to simply augment that wealth of information with one additional piece, because I think that over time, people will continue to find this topic useful for a very specific purpose - to convert one of those old Target Midway cabs, circa 2006-2007, into a MAME machine. I think there are still tons of them out there, in varying states of neglect and decrepitude, and with a little know-how and elbow grease, these are much better candidates for Maiming than an original dedicated cab which could be restored instead. That said, here is my contribution.
This cabinet uses a simple (and seemingly unnecessary) PCB as a go-between from the thicker, color-coded control panel wires to two sets of thin, 15-conductor ribbon cables. The original post, while providing a great wiring breakout for the wires connected to the actual controls, did not give a clear mapping to the wires of the ribbon cables, which I feel are better suited for wiring to the keyboard encoder. So for those who want to go the route I went, snipping/ripping/stripping the two ribbon cables and wiring those to the encoder, here is a quick and easy ribbon cable wiring breakout diagram:
Note the lingo for these cabinets, they refer to all the buttons on the control panel (except for Player 1 Start, Player 2 Start and Reset) as "Fire" buttons, hence the terminology "F1" through "F6" above. I know this additional information will be of use to someone in the future. For now, I just ask that this topic be allowed to quietly slip back into obscurity. :)
--- End quote ---
Thanks for this!!!!
Andy
jbserra:
--- Quote from: andy4sandy on April 13, 2015, 12:38:07 pm ---Now with 14 inch TFT, Jamma Board, 30 Watt Speaker, and LEDs. Work fine :-)
--- End quote ---
Is your marquee lit as well?
tredog:
I just acquired one of these for $20 without even seeing it first. I already have a MAME Machine, Mini pinball, and a Pacman and figured for $20 I can't loose. I never knew these existed until now (10 years later), lol. Anyway, P1 joystick will not go left and the screen is scrunched up toward the bottom, top 20% of screen is blank. Does the joystick use a normal replaceable microswitch? and does the monitor have controls to adjust the vertical hold like a normal arcade monitor? If so, are the switches located up front with the volume buttons or do I have to get the TV out and take the cover off?
@jbserra looking good! :)
jbserra:
--- Quote from: tredog on April 16, 2015, 03:27:34 pm ---I just acquired one of these for $20 without even seeing it first. I already have a MAME Machine, Mini pinball, and a Pacman and figured for $20 I can't loose. I never knew these existed until now (10 years later), lol. Anyway, P1 joystick will not go left and the screen is scrunched up toward the bottom, top 20% of screen is blank. Does the joystick use a normal replaceable microswitch? and does the monitor have controls to adjust the vertical hold like a normal arcade monitor? If so, are the switches located up front with the volume buttons or do I have to get the TV out and take the cover off?
@jbserra looking good! :)
--- End quote ---
I believe they use normal replaceable microswitches, but if not, I have seen the full joystick swapped out which may be better anyway.
The monitor is a 13" TV with RCA input. There is channel, volume and menu on the front. I tried unsuccessfully to guess a code for my universal remote that would allow me into all of the menus, so I had to pull out the tv entirely and push the buttons. I put an extra hole on the front that lined up with the menu button so I didn't have to take everything apart again. I could just use a skinny screw driver if I needed it. But then I swapped the whole TV anyway. You can have my old tube if you're ever near Milwaukee for a case of Dew :-)
I'm pretty sure there is not a vertical hold unless it's in the menu somewhere or something inside the case.
Bypass the video switcher and try a good RCA straight from the cartridge to the tv to rule out the cable. Mine was bad when I got it.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version