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Is my computer running to hot?

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ark_ader:

--- Quote from: leapinlew on January 07, 2007, 12:26:06 pm ---a long time ago, when I was taking certification exams. They would always have a question about an overheating computer. They would say that removing the slot covers and working with the case open was bad for a computer as it disrupted the air flow. I've never seen this to be the case with normal computers in real life. Working with 1U rack servers, I suppose it could be an issue.

Anyone ever see the computer actually get warmer when opening the case?



--- End quote ---
No,  and yes I remember a question on my A+ about airflow.

I'm a big believer in room in a case.  Nice when you have a small case and more room in the bottom of your cab or you have a cocktail and space is a premium, but it has its price.

I like to use the rolled IDE cables, single hard drive and a passive video card.  Fan controlled graphic cards just run hot by default.  A passive ATI 9550 should be enough for any setup.

Two fans - one situated in the lower front drawing air in, and another reversed near the I/O panel blowing it out.  The CPU fan should circulate air around all your parts and I recommend duct tape on all grills on the chasis.

I bought a PSU that actually monitors the heat in the PC and ups the fan accordingly and when it shuts off - the fan is still spinning cooling everything after power off.

To be honest my cabinet PC is like a fridge, and the cost of running it is quite cheap - and it powers my fans in the cab and the marquee light (cold cathode).

So airflow is important, airspace in the back with adequate venting should prevent resets and melting of cables (yes been there too).  Got a cab with cramp space? Get an Epia.  Those are passive and quite quick with linux.

Stay away from 120+ GB drives - they run hot too, with Maxtor and WD being the main culprits.  Samsung drives are cool in operation but fail a lot.

There is nothing worse then building a cab and installing all those games for the PC to reset or catch on fire, and causing so much grief.

divemaster127:
Something you might consider, a 350 watt power supply is way to small for that kind of computer i would get bigger once right away, esp. if you have a nice pci video, this could cause you major issues
dm

Kremmit:

--- Quote from: divemaster127 on January 07, 2007, 01:56:47 pm ---Something you might consider, a 350 watt power supply is way to small for that kind of computer i would get bigger once right away, esp. if you have a nice pci video, this could cause you major issues
dm

--- End quote ---

Not true.  The "you need a bigger PSU" myth has been growing like crazy the last few years, but the fact is, all but the gnarliest overclocked SLI gaming rigs are fine with a small PSU.  There's a good article here: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article28-page3.html.  They ran a system roughly comparable to Unclet's with:

# Intel Pentium 670 (Prescott, 3.8GHz)
# Intel D915PBL motherboard
# 2 x 512MB Corsair DDR2 RAM
# AOpen Aeolus 6800GT PCIe VGA
# 2 x 250 GB Western Digital Caviar SE HDD
# Seasonic S12-430W PSU
# Creative SB Audigy-2 ZS Platinum
# 3 x 120mm fans

... and it used 264 watts AC and output 214 watts DC when put under a benchmarking processor load. 

In all fairness, though, a generic, no-name PSU labeled as "350w" might not really be 350 watts, the sticker could easily be lying.  But since UncleT's not complaining about random reboots or shutdowns, he probably doesn't have a power capacity issue.  If it's a very inefficient PSU, he may have an excess heat creation issue, though.  An efficiency upgrade on the PSU is always a good idea.  The Seasonic line of PSUs is efficient, accurate in their power ratings, and considerably cheaper than most of the brands that aim for the hardcore gamer market.

Unclet, I'll echo the above comments about airflow.  If you're getting a 7 degree temp drop by opening the case, you either don't have enough airflow, or it's not being directed properly.  A (very) well controlled airflow path will actually cool your computer better than an open case.  Consider upgrading your fans, and maybe re-thinking their placement.  Bigger fans are your friend, both from a noise and airflow standpoint.

However, if you're only getting down to 62 with the case open, then there's more to it than that.  Just because the heatsink came with the computer doesn't mean it's any good, or that it's installed right.  If it were me, I'd pull the heatsink, and replace it with the best one I could find that will fit on the mobo.  Your mobo uses socket 778; the Thermalright Ultra-120 is one of the finest heatsinks on the market and can be mounted most all socket 778 motherboards.  You'll also need to buy a 120mm fan to go on it as it comes without one.

rdowdy95:
Also remember when you remove the cheapo adhesive pad goop, use the highest ISOPHORL Alcohol.  I can't spell it, but that removes the compound good.  Then get some artic silver and apply a thin layer over the cpu.  Use a razor to get the best thin-est.

divemaster127:
I agree with what your saying about the power supply if you are using GOOD 350 then you are ok, a lot of these stock cheapies do not deliver what they promise, below are a few good notes about the power supply & how it affects cooling from the article you pointed out above, my opinion i still prefer a higher wattage quality power supply.
"As long as there is adequate power, higher efficiency is the key to cooler, quieter PSU operation. "

If all other things are equal, a higher rated PSU may be a better choice in such an application because its parts are generally rated for higher current and heat than a lower rated model

These parameters are the keys to good PSU performance:

Stable power delivery under load
High efficiency
Good cooling
Low noise operation
Long term reliability
dm

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