Main > Woodworking
Router confusion - plunge vs fixed
Druxar:
Now that I've started reading more about routers I'm confused. From what I read, routing the edges of stock with a plunge router could be dangerous, unstable etc.
I know nothing about routers and will be buying one in the next few months. The inspiration for the purchase will be primarily Tmolding, and I'm sure I'll want to do plunge activities like grooves to route cables or bottom mount a joytick. Do I need to worry about using a plunge router for edge work?
THe more I read the more confused I get.
spiffykyle:
I have both in my workshop and use them all the time. I primarily build furniture but am now getting into designing my first cab.
A plunge router is more often used for "inset" work...basically wherever you cant approach from the edge. You can use a fixed base router to trim out holes as long as your router bit fits in the hole without touching the rough sides. With a plunge router you get it up to speed and then "plunge" the spinning bit into your work, which usually takes some practice so do some test cuts first.
A good plunge router is no harder to use than a fixed base router. You can even get kits which have the router motor and both a fixed and a plunge base.
I use my fixed base router more often and also in my router table, so if you are going to only buy one, I would get a fixed base.
For slot cutting I use my fixed base on my router table.
Don't skimp on buying a router and getting a cheap one. Its probably the most versatile tool in a workshop and you'll regret a cheap one from the start.
ScottS:
--- Quote from: Druxar on December 15, 2006, 12:45:36 am ---Do I need to worry about using a plunge router for edge work?
--- End quote ---
Not necessarily. Plunge routers can be difficult to use on edges, because their design tends to make them prone to tipping. Many plunge routers have a release that's used to change the depth of the router. For edge work, the best thing to do is lock the height in place before you turn the machine on. At that point, you can treat it just as you would a fixed-base router. Of course, any router used for edge routing needs to be well-supported so that it can't tip over during the routing operation!
As spiffykyle mentioned, if you're going to buy a router there are many packages that contain both fixed and plunge bases. Look at the Bosch 1617, DeWalt 618, or similar. If you have a choice, I like a D-handle fixed base rather than a traditional two-knob design; better control. Also, if the only thing you're going to build is MAME cabinets, don't think you need a 2.25 or 3HP router. My most-used router is a small 8 amp, 1.5(?) horsepower model. The light weight makes it extremely easy to control, unlike my Bosch 1617.
Donkey_Kong:
You hardcore woodworkers will probably laugh at me but I've been thinking about the Rotozip with plunge router attachment for light duty stuff. You know when you have tight quarters for inside of already built control panels for example...A small bodied plunge router such as the Rotozip might be nice!! Horesepower would be minimal but she would be pretty nimble up in there.
ScottS:
Everybody I know who owns a RotoZip says they're useless for anything except making holes in drywall. I'd suggest buying a laminate trimmer (a.k.a. small router) before a RotoZip. The Bosch PR20 Colt is the best of the bunch, IIRC. The only bad thing is that they're fixed base.
BTW, why would you need to route the inside of a finished control panel?