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New Product: TurboTwist 2 - The Ultimate Spinner / Paddle control ! From GGG!

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Fozzy The Bear:

--- Quote from: ahofle on November 28, 2006, 11:50:03 am ---
--- Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on November 28, 2006, 11:29:47 am ---Fortunately I think I can get a router bit into that hole and cut through the plexi and the wood and the artwork all at the same time  :dizzy:

--- End quote ---


If your luck is anywhere near as bad as mine, you will end up with a bunch of saw dust inconveniently nestled in between the artwork and plexi doing it that way LOL.   :banghead:

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ROFLMAO....  :laugh2: Don't you just hate it when when you know it's going to happen and it does!!!  :banghead: :banghead: I've now got to disconnect all the buttons, take them out of the panel, just to be able to lift the plexi enough to clean all the dust and plastic chips out. ARRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!  :censored:  :censored:  :censored:  :censored:  :censored:  :censored:

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

 

RandyT:

--- Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on December 10, 2006, 10:55:13 am ---ROFLMAO....  :laugh2: Don't you just hate it when when you know it's going to happen and it does!!! I've now got to disconnect all the buttons, take them out of the panel, just to be able to lift the plexi enough to clean all the dust and plastic chips out. ARRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!
 

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First, try just loosening all of the nuts.  You might be able to lift the plastic enough to blow out the dust without having to disconnect everything!

RandyT

Fozzy The Bear:

--- Quote from: RandyT on December 10, 2006, 11:49:54 am ---First, try just loosening all of the nuts.  You might be able to lift the plastic enough to blow out the dust without having to disconnect everything!

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Yeah! Thanks for the suggestion Randy.... I did try that first, but the static on the plexi was holding it in there, even with a serious air blast from the compressor. 

In the end I took everything out... my Joysticks are bottom mounted on the 8 ways and and top mounted under the artwork on the 4 way. So I was able to leave those in place and just remove the shafts and just the ball top on the 4 way. The rest of the buttons were easy enough to get out.  I also have a nice tidy well tied down wiring loom, so it was a piece of cake to put back in again. Took a lot less time than I was expecting.

I now have a nice clean 1-1/8" hole ready for Christmas Morning!  :applaud: :applaud:

 :cheers:  ;D ;D I really must post some pictures at some point....

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

 

RayB:
Randy, which knob would you recommend for Arkanoid?

RandyT:

--- Quote from: RayB on December 10, 2006, 10:58:51 pm ---Randy, which knob would you recommend for Arkanoid?

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By the end of next week there will be a knob available that I expect will be better for this type of game than any other knob prior to it. 

The cost may put it out of reach for some, but it might just prove to be as big a "forehead slapper" as the design of the TT2.  Details will follow when I get a unit for testing.  ;D

As for the closest in size of the current "low-cost" knobs, I would say that "Black Dimple" would be the ticket.  "Big Blue" is also quite good with a a little bit of extra sensitivity (100% for DOH and about 50% for Arkanoid.)


And in the FWIW department;

For those who haven't figured it out from the above, there is a knob diameter to "transitions per revolution" ratio that must be maintained to closely duplicate the feel of the originals.  A knob smaller than the original will need lowered sensitivity, while a knob larger than the original (like "Big Blue") will want increased sensitivity.  If anyone is wondering about the value of resolution higher than the original control, this would be it.


RandyT

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