WG K7000 Help!

[Captain_Dingo]

I have a WG K7000 monitor that was doing some funky stuff, so I got a cap kit and flyback replacement kit from Bob Roberts.  After replacing all of the appropriate parts, I fired the monitor up only to be greeted by:



So, I grabbed my copy of the K7000 troubleshooting flowchart, and started following it.  Here's what I saw:

Fuse F1 is fine.

For R301, please verify for me that this is the correct component.  My component is 180ohm/25W, while the flowchart refers to a 220ohm, 15W part:



I measured +135VDC at one side and +160VDC on the other.  Following the +160V arrow, I get to unsolder D10.  After doing that, I still didn't get a picture.

I verified all of the solder joints around the flyback.  Everything seems to be fine.

The next step directs me to check the voltage at the metal tab of Q11.  Is that the HOT?  Is it referring to the metal tab on top that's screwed to the metal bracket?  Isn't that grounded and therefore shouldn't show any voltage?

I'm not sure where to head next.  I might consider just scrapping this and getting a new chassis, or searching out a replacement used monitor, since this one has some significant burnin.  If anyone can offer any suggestions that will help me fix what I have, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

[Grauwulf]

Turn the screen control down on your flyback.

[SirPeale]

What kind of input do you have for this monitor?  Arcade board or otherwise?

[Captain_Dingo]

Turn the screen control down on your flyback.

I turned it up so I could see something more interesting than a black screen.  Adjusting any of the controls (screen, focus, or anything on the remote) do not provide any picture.

What kind of input do you have for this monitor?  Arcade board or otherwise?

Arcade board.

[Ken Layton]

This chassis is well known for many numerous bad solder joints. I assume you have checked for any bad joints particularly at resitors R89 and R101?

Has the voltage regulator IC gone bad?

[SirPeale]

Turn the screen control down on your flyback.

I turned it up so I could see something more interesting than a black screen.  Adjusting any of the controls (screen, focus, or anything on the remote) do not provide any picture.

What kind of input do you have for this monitor?  Arcade board or otherwise?

Arcade board.

It looks like you're getting raster...you're saying it still plays blind?

[grantspain]

power supply/game board/wiring/blanking i.c-check in that order

[kyouteki]

Look familiar?
Turn the contrast all the way up, then turn down the screen control.

[Captain_Dingo]

First off, thanks everyone for helping me out here.  Sorry for not getting back sooner, but it's been a busy few days.

This chassis is well known for many numerous bad solder joints. I assume you have checked for any bad joints particularly at resitors R89 and R101?

Has the voltage regulator IC gone bad?

Visually, all of the solder joints look fine.  I tested specifically the connections at R89 and R101, and there was no problem.

How do I test if the voltage regulator IC is bad?

It looks like you're getting raster...you're saying it still plays blind?

Yes, it plays blind.  Lots of MK3 attract mode sounds thumping through my basement once it's been turned on...

power supply/game board/wiring/blanking i.c-check in that order

I'm 99.9999999% confident that the PS, game board, and wiring are all fine.  I'm not sure how I go about checking the blanking IC.

Any more suggestions?

[Luckydevil]

I went through a whole slew of troubleshooting and replacing parts on my chassis and just ended up purchasing a whole new chassis in the end.

Just by a new chassis and be done with it. They are only about $80 and will give you the piece of mind knowing that it will work for another 10 years without you having to mess with it.

[Ken Layton]

What did you buy and how was the picture?

Did you ebay your old chassis?

[Captain_Dingo]

Since we're on the subject...

If I were to replace my chassis, it looks like the best option is the 25" Wei-Ya chassis from Alva.  Is the 825H the appropriate one?  Also, I've seen on the 8liners site the idea of replacing the tube with one scavenged from a TV.  Will the picture be the same as an arcade monitor?  Can I do that with the Alva chassis in the future if I were to locate a suitable tube?  Right now, I just want to get the monitor working, but if I could locate a replacement tube on the cheap, that would be great...

[Captain_Dingo]

Okay, I'll try one more time...

25" WG K7000, ~10 ohms in the vertical deflection windings, 10 pin yoke connector.  Is the 825H chassis from Alva the correct one?

Thanks!

[Ken Layton]

Yes.

[Captain_Dingo]

Well, Alva's out of the chassis for the next month or so, so I'm stuck.  Is there anything else I should be checking that might get this fixed in the next couple of days, or should I just write it off and wait until December?

[Ken Layton]

See if Alva's competitor has the chassis you want in stock:

http://home.earthlink.net/~arcadeparts/index.html