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Tron Cabinet Conversion

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MYX:

--- Quote from: MYX on August 28, 2006, 11:24:49 am ---Um...how bout Tron?

--- End quote ---

Or again...


--- Quote from: MYX on August 28, 2006, 03:58:14 pm ---I'll tell you what, I will trade you a really nice Virtua fighter cabinet or an even nicer neo geo cab for that Tron.

--- End quote ---

I'll even leave the JAMMA harness in the NG

ArtMAME:
If you want to avoid scorn and flames from the forum members, just remember this:

"Please be wise, do not baster-dize... ;D "     


Well the bottom line, it is your cab, and you can do what you want with it. 

If you want to convert to another game, may I suggest Gottleib's Mad Planets...Triggerstick and spinner game baby... I play it with my Tron control panel on my MAME cab...lots of fun...doable if you can find parts for it. 

Or you can MAME it, add some extra buttons and you can play Mad Planets, Archanoid series, Gorf, Satan's Hollow, etc... tons of possibilities.

Good luck  :cheers:

Havok:
Hey - how about converting it to Discs of Tron instead?

 ;D

jimmy_bored:

--- Quote from: johnvv on August 28, 2006, 09:08:21 pm ---I've spent a ton of time this past year doing a total Tron restore.  I think the nicest thing about the tron cabs is their great 'piano black' finish.  Don't know what condition the sides of yours is in.  If they are in still really good shape or if you want to get into a specialized paint job, I recommend preserving or restoring the nice black sides and then clean up the front, top, and back.

Once restored, it will look really nice.  You could then do a smaller CP with some LED lights on the panel or joysticks.  While it is not Tron anymore, it would still have a bit of the Tron theme and style to it as a tribute to its heritage.  The 'piano' finish on the Tron gives it a bit of class over the standard arcade cab so, in my opinion, can still look quite nice as a conversion.

If you are interested in the details on how to restore the paint on it, check these forums or let me know.  The original sides are a melamine wood with an automotive paint on them - that's why there are so smooth and the finish is so hard.  It does look like black melamine, but it is paint.


--- End quote ---

Actually I could use your input.  Do you have the dimensions for the lower back door.  When I got the cab it was missing.  And if you know the exact type of paint that would be great also.  I do have a paint gun.

The cabinet is in good shape.  It just needs to be cleaned up.  Most likely I will restore the outside to the original Tron style, but the insides will be different,  Then if I come across a good deal on parts I can slowly put it back together as an original Tron machine.  I think that's going to be a win win situation.

johnvv:

--- Quote ---Actually I could use your input.  Do you have the dimensions for the lower back door.  When I got the cab it was missing.  And if you know the exact type of paint that would be great also.  I do have a paint gun.
--- End quote ---

The door dimensions are as follows:

- 23" wide, with two sections: upper and lower which are joined at the angle of the cab.
- 3/4" thick
- lower section is 7 1/4" tall with the lower 1/4" being a notch or lip that faces outward.
- upper section is 25 3/4" tall with the upper 1/2" being a noth or lip that faces inwards.
- there is a lock at the top of the back
- there are four rounded rectangle vent holes in the upper section of the back door with metal mesh covers on the inside.
- each rounded rectangle is 5" wide and 1 3/8" high.  They first row of two is 3" from the top of the upper back.  The next row of to is 1" below the first row.  Each vertical pair of rectangles start 2 5/8" from a side.

See rgvac.com for paint codes and great tips on restoration.  You'll need to do a bit of hunting around to find everything.

For the paint, you have two options.  The first is Rustoleum Satin Black (oil-based).  It can only be thinned with acetone.  It is suitable for the sides, back, front, and top of the cab.  To make the Tron cab look really nice, the best option is to clean the surfaces, fill any big holes with bondo, and then prime with an automotive primer (Evercoat FeatherFill G2 is great).  You'll need several coats, but they gone on fast and you already have a gun.  Once dry, follow the directions and sand to get an ultra-smooth (glass-smooth) finish.  You can then apply the Rustoleum Satin Black.  For the front, back, and top, 2 coats should be plenty.  For the sides, you will need 2-3 light coats.  You can wet sand between coats if you get an bumps, but you should not with the auto primer and a gun.  Let the Rustoleum cure at least several days between coats.  It will harded to a nice shell over the course of the next few weeks.

The second option is to prep with the automotive primer as noted above, but use a black automotive paint.  You'll need to go to the auto paint store to find a match.  The House of Kolor brand of auto paints are very nice and they have lots of choices.  For application, you can do it yourself (practice first and read the instructions) or take the cab to an auto paint shop.  You should be able to make a deal with them to paint your cab with auto paint for a reasonable charge - it is a very easy job for them.  If you bring the paint and do the masking, it should save you a few $$.

Sanding is important for all cab prep work.  In the case of Tron, the original sides are so 'hard' due to the melamine foundation and the orginal auto paint, sanding is just about futile.  If you try to paint the side, just clean them up good and spray with the auto primer if you have scratches.  The auto primer is self-leveling, so will provide a great base for this type of cab.  Obviously, you may want to have the cab horizontal an do one side at a time to get the best perforamance from the auto primer.

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