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Help with solder
MaximRecoil:
--- Quote from: ChadTower on August 25, 2006, 04:46:14 pm ---
I always attributed that to the fact that some stays in the path it took. You don't see liquids flowing without leaving a trail behind... makes sense, though.
--- End quote ---
In order to illustrate it to yourself you could do some "backwards" soldering. Set up a typical through-hole joint and press your iron to the pad and post and wait a few seconds for the heat to conduct to all areas of the pad and post. Then press the solder in from the same side that the iron is touching. You will find that the solder will still flow around to the other side, which is away from the heat source (iron), but still keeping with the fact that solder will flow evenly to all solderable areas that are hot enough to flow solder.
Level42:
Wow, I think we got enough info for a Wikipedia topic here ;)
MaximRecoil: The Metcals look sweet. Every word you say about them must be true, indeed a very nice looking handle. When you're doing work like you described, you absolutely need a tool like that, no doubt ! I'm sure I would love the Metcals.
The funny thing is that (currently) I work as a Service Engineer in the Fire Alarm business. I come in when the installers are done, check everything, program the systems and test them. Also do inspections and service calls.(Mostly the tough ones).
So I recognize what you say about the importance of reliable solderings. I delivered a new system into service the other day, and everthing was fine when I left. Next day I get called that the fire brigade tested the system and the manual button for activating the slow whoops didn't work. I told them to push it for at least a second, still no go. Went back, and discovered there was a bad soldering at a connector on the PCB. It made contact when I was there, but not when the fire brigade tested. This could also have happened AFTER they tested, so everyone would think things were OK. Could have cost lives indeed.....
Anyway, I've had jobs where I did a lot of soldering (PC monitors repair) but now it's very little, only once in a while (like the situation above, fixed it with my Pyropen :) )
Privatly I rarely solder, only when doing some TV/Audio repairs f.i.. Haven't soldered anything on my cabs yet....no real need so far. But I do have a very old Weller station. Got it from a friend who didn't need it anymore. Else, I would be using a very simple iron too. But it is a joy to work with that station instead of a "regular" iron.
ChadTower:
--- Quote from: MaximRecoil on August 25, 2006, 05:03:02 pm ---In order to illustrate it to yourself you could do some "backwards" soldering. Set up a typical through-hole joint and press your iron to the pad and post and wait a few seconds for the heat to conduct to all areas of the pad and post. Then press the solder in from the same side that the iron is touching. You will find that the solder will still flow around to the other side, which is away from the heat source (iron), but still keeping with the fact that solder will flow evenly to all solderable areas that are hot enough to flow solder.
--- End quote ---
A lot of it would flow back onto the iron's tip in that scenario, yes? That is what used to happen to me when I did it that way.
MaximRecoil:
--- Quote from: ChadTower on August 26, 2006, 08:57:35 am ---A lot of it would flow back onto the iron's tip in that scenario, yes? That is what used to happen to me when I did it that way.
--- End quote ---
Shouldn't have any more flowing onto the tip than usual assuming you have allowed enough time for the whole pad and post to heat up enough to flow the solder correctly.
ChadTower:
I probably don't allow enough time fairly often.
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