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Ryobi Router hacking me off fixing to return it!!!!
rdowdy95:
Well the thing is I am going to get a longer bit. The cutout out pattern I had was 3/4" plywood. Underneath that was also 3/4" plywood. See I am laying my one arcade cabniet side on top of the other piece of wood and pattern routing like that. I have not done any plunge work. This project I will not be doing any plunging. I will just be setting the lock down in posistion. I am going to try to set the bit all the way in the collet, but pull it out about an 1/16 so the heat can expand. Thanks guys, check the pics out a nice flush side piece of wood. That is some scrap wood I was testing on. It was also clamped down very good. I will let you guys know my progress of routing here. Thanks for answering my questions.
DrewKaree:
--- Quote from: Brax on July 29, 2006, 08:12:00 am ---
Comment #1 In my opinion you SHOULD be putting the router bit "all the way" in. It's a collet. It's loose; you're not going to get it "stuck". It spins close to 30,000 rpm, it needs all the help it can get to hang on to the bit. Router bits were designed to be inserted all the way until they hit the stop.
--- End quote ---
There are 2 main reasons NOT to seat the bit all the way in (bottom out, hit the stop, however you want to term it). First, the heat generated during use is transferred directly to the bottom, which then is transferred directly to the motor. Heat in tools tends to shorten the life of a tool. Second, and the far more important reason, since the shortened life-span won't be that noticeable to the casual user, if a bottomed-out bit seizes in the collet (which frequently happens, bottomed-out or not), you'll have to PULL it out with pliers, which can be difficult. Some other method MAY work for you, or HAS worked for you in the past, but it won't stop it from happening. If you HAVEN'T bottomed-out your bit, you can tap it with a piece of wood. The small gap allows it some "wiggle room" so you can then free it from the collet much more easily.
I have had (and I'm sure others have as well) crap get down in there, burn due to this heat, and you've now got a stuck bit that isn't stuck on the sides (although that often happens too) and it requires all manner of cursing and hammering to get it out. Since learning that I SHOULDN'T bottom out a router bit, not so much :)
A router bit should be put all the way in, then pulled out just a tad to give a small bit of space for those 2 reasons, however, I agree with you on pulling a bit halfway out. Should NEVER be done.
DrewKaree:
--- Quote from: rdowdy95 on July 29, 2006, 11:23:37 am ---
Thanks guys, check the pics out a nice flush side piece of wood.
--- End quote ---
[Field Of Dreams]If you attach them, they will look ;) ;D [/Field Of Dreams]
NightGod:
I still say you should get a pattern bit that has the bearing on the bottom instead of the top-you'll be wanting one later if/when you decide to laminate the sides or plexi your CP.
rdowdy95:
Drew scroll up some man. They are pics up there. I posted three of them earlier. Two are of two pieces of board clamped together. The other shows the bit pulled out some.
Hey Drew my instructions in the manual did say pull it out just a tit. So the heat has room to expand. Good call there. Also they have an collet extension at MLCS. I don't think I will get it, I am going to go with the Top & Bottom Bearing Flush Bearing Bit at MLCS. It is item #8814 and the cutting length is 2". That ought to do the trick. I am always going to shove the bit in as far as it will go then pull it out a smidge like 1/16" or an 8th of an inch.
Drew I will not be doing any plunge work on the project. I think I said plunge earlier, but it was a verbal screwup. I am still trying to get my router lingo going.
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