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Woodworking questions (non-arcade related)
ErikRuud:
--- Quote from: tivogre on April 28, 2006, 11:24:37 pm ---Poplar is a good strong hardwood that is not too expensive.
I made my sister-in-law some tables from poplar and a dye finish (as I suggested above).
--- End quote ---
The challenge with poplar is that it can have a yellowish to greenish tone to parts of it that can really affect your stain. It is often suggested that poplar be used for stuff that will be painted and not stained.
In my basement the cabinets are oak, with a slightly reddish tone to the finish. I think they called it "Honey Oak". Oak trim was much too expensive, so I used pine for the, doors, casements, baseboards and chair rails. I did some experimenting and came up with a combination of Cherry and Golden Oak stains that gave me an almost perfect match to the color of the cabinets. When it came time to buy the stair railings, I found that they came in Oak and Poplar. Again the oak was too much. I went with the poplar, but I had to go to 4 different stores to find all the spindles, newell posts and rails with little or no green in them. I used a slightly different combination of stains to get the best match to the rest of the wood work.
AtomSmasher:
I didn't get too much done this weekend, but as you can see the headboard is basically done, I just need to build two drawers and put the molding on, which brings me to why I'm here. Whats the best way to put the molding on the edges of the wood? I'm guessing small nails would work well, but I just want to get confirmation on this. The molding is just 1/4'' thick oak molding, nothing fancy.
As for the rest of the bed, its pretty much done. Both footboards are finished and the sideboards are cut out, but I'm short one 2x4 so I wasn't able to finish it. Its pretty close to being done, mainly just a lot of sanding and staining left to do.
Ayrk:
One option is to get the iron on siding that is designed for this. It is a very thin strip of wood with some heat activated glue on the end. You just heat up the iron (cover the bottom in aluminum foil to protect it) and then run it along the trim. It will stick to the board and you just need to trim it with a razor blade, real easy stuff.
If you have molding, the best way is to glue it and hold it still with clamps. If you don't have the time or the clamps for that, then you can glue them and use small finishing nails or brads to nail it down. You will probably need to get a set of punches to keep from hammering the trim itself and I've found holding the brads with needle-nose pliers saves your fingers a royal beating.
The headboard looks great, btw.
Pyro:
The headboard looks great!
In addition to the comments that Aryk made, I would like to add that if you don't have clamps to glue up the trim, sometimes you can get away with just a few brads to line things up (the brads don't really do much other than hold proper alignment, it is the glue that does the gripping) and then use the weight of your project to apply pressure to the trim. Basically, tack the trim in place with a few brads and then flop the project onto that side, on a concrete floor or other sturdy surface, and allow it to dry.
Keep up the good work!
Pyro
Nannuu:
--- Quote from: Ayrk on May 23, 2006, 10:30:38 am ---One option is to get the iron on siding that is designed for this. It is a very thin strip of wood with some heat activated glue on the end. You just heat up the iron (cover the bottom in aluminum foil to protect it) and then run it along the trim. It will stick to the board and you just need to trim it with a razor blade, real easy stuff.
--- End quote ---
Do this, this stuff works great! You can get it at Home Depot too. I've used this for multiple projects on oak plywood.
Looking good, looking really good.
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