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T Molding Alternatives
Doc Thirst:
I did my channel after the cab was assembled.
It wasn't that hard except for the 3 or 4 pieces that are sandwiched between the sides. For these I routed the channel as far to each side as the sides would allow, then I cut the rest of the channel (about 2 inches) with a razor knife. The biggest hassle is removing all the equipment and setting the machine on its side. I didn't want to dmg the sides so I used a piece of 2" form insulation to keep it off the floor. I didn't have to lay the thing down, but it made it easier to route.
Good luck!
brian23:
--- Quote from: Mark70 on January 23, 2006, 10:37:33 pm ---Cutting the slot is really not a big deal. Except that you're painted already and probably don't want to back track.
You can buy plastic or wood laminate edging that irons on for use with melamine stock for shelves and such. You should be able to find black, white and wood (usually oak) at any decent lumber supply. Home depot has it for sure. Don't know if it will work over paint.
I think you'll get a secon rate finish by cutting the spine out of t-molding. When you hammer t-molding into the slot it flatens out against the edge giving it that smooth look. It's not designed to be glued on, and think that you'll be fighting it's springy curved section the whole time you're trying to glue it.
--- End quote ---
I cut the channel out of the T-molding. It was annoying, but building a cab in an apartment is not easy! :) It looks fine hot glued. No difference between that or if I had cut the channel in the wood myself. No one is the wiser. Just carefully use a razor blade. More work than using a router though, but then again you don't have to worry about all the sawdust.
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