Arcade Collecting > Pinball
My Pinball Playfield Swap - Stargate - All Electronics Done!
Buddabing:
This afternoon I attempted to resolve why some of my coils are not firing. There was no voltage between one of the coil leads and ground. There was, however, resistance between the two coil leads. Marvin3m.com says to check the fuses. Sure enough, three fuses were burned out. I don't know how they burned out yet. It's possible that I wired something wrong and the first time I powered up the machine it caused the fuses to blow. I'll swap the fuse with a known good one of the same amperage and I'll see if those coils start to work.
To aid in testing, I made some extenders for my voltmeter out of some alligator clips and wire. I should have used white and black wire, oh well.
Also, here is a picture of how the playfield connects with the cabinet.
PetitMorte:
Marvin has a nice trick for testing coils.
With the power on, clip one end of your 'gators to the side-rail. Then touch the other end to the lug of the diode that is on the NON banded side of the diode. The solenoid should fire. This tests if the solenoid is getting power.
Don't touch the Banded side, as that will short and blow the solenoid fuse.
Then touch the gator to the metal back of the transistor that controls the solenoid. The solenoid should fire. If it does, then the solenoid is getting power AND the wiring between the driver board and the solenoid is fine.
w00t!
Buddabing:
Some progress has been made.
First, I hooked up my new Pinball Pro subwoofer. I was disappointed. I expected the bass to have a lot more punch in it. It just sounds like a third speaker.
I was able to diagnose one major coil problem. I had soldered one of the coils with the wires reversed. This caused the fuse to blow. I reversed the wires and that coil works now. So now I'm short a few fuses, no big deal.
Today I also hooked up the remaining optical switches that are on the ramps, and the motor that controls the glidercraft. They work fine.
So now there are two coils that don't work, one switch that doesn't work, and one coil that may or may not work. All other switches appear to work.
Next up I'm going to change the bats on the flippers, clean up the new bats, and re-rubber them.
Buddabing:
The two non-working coils are the "left kicking rubber" and the "left kicking target". Both coils have the correct resistance across the terminals, and neither coil has voltage across it.
I ran a wire continuity check. For the left kicking rubber, there is good continuity from the coil to the fuse, and from the coil to the controller board.
For the left kicking target, there is good continuity from the coil to the fuse, but there is no connection between the coil and the controller board. So somewhere there is a severed wire in the wire harness. Ugh.
I don't know what to do about the left kicking rubber. The solder connection seems sound, maybe I'll try to reflow it.
Suggestions welcome, I'm going to post on RGP.
Buddabing:
This weekend I installed the flippers. There is a special allen wrench that is used to tighten two screws that clamp the flipper. I tightened them too tight at first and they barely moved. I loosened them up and they flip better now, but still too slowly. I was expecting the flippers (freshly rebuilt) to be a lot more lively.
It is also tricky to get them exactly in the right position so that the flipper goes in the correct arc.
I have attached two pictures, a bit blurry unfortunately, one shows the old cracked bats and the other showing nice clean intact bats.
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