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Problems with Williams 49-ways, not working in all directions.
quarterback:
--- Quote from: Major Rock Hardy on October 11, 2005, 11:03:37 am ---your chip is indeed a quad, 2-input nand part:
--- End quote ---
Yeah, I found the part on mouser for $.48/chip and I've been doing my best to educate myself on what all this means. So I now get (conceptually) what a NAND gate is, but I'm still not clear on the best way to test the chip before I do something drastic like pulling it off the board.
I can't meter anything directly off the chip while the joystick is assembled, but I can power up the chip by connecting the PCB to my GPwiz49. So if somebody could give me tip on how to mose easily test each of the four NAND input/outputs on the chip, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks
SirPeale:
I've got a 49 way that does the same thing. At first I thought maybe it was one of the optics, but replacing that didn't help. Now I'm curious what part got toasted, and if it's replacable.
quarterback:
--- Quote from: Peale on March 30, 2006, 07:31:52 am ---I've got a 49 way that does the same thing. At first I thought maybe it was one of the optics, but replacing that didn't help. Now I'm curious what part got toasted, and if it's replacable.
--- End quote ---
After having this problem last year, I immediately started looking for a replacement 49-way that worked. In that pursuit, I talked to a number of people selling them and found 1 or 2 people who reported the same thing with their Arch Rival's 49-ways. So it's not a completely uncommon thing.
It seems likely that it's the nand chip as people in this thread have suggested. My traces all look clean and since we can rule out the optical sensors, there's not much left on the board. It just seems odd (to me) that so many nand chips just 'go bad'. But, since these are used joysticks, it might be something as simple as a spilled-Coke "short" across something that burns out part of the chip. I don't know.
Since I have two which are both bad, but bad on different axis', I was going to test the chips by comparing the two with my multi-meter and see if I could really confirm that it was the chip... but I'm not sure how to do that, or if it's even possible.
A replacement nand chip is cheap and, if you wanna' try it, I'm sure there are those who would be interested to know if that is the answer. I currently have two working ones that I bought off of eBay but I have no idea if they're going to 'go bad' in the future. I didn't talk to anybody who had picked up working joysticks that then failed while in their possesion, so nobody was able to determine exactly what might have gone wrong.
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