Author Topic: Stencilling Service (Read 37775 times)

johnvv · « **on:** August 16, 2005, 07:50:52 pm »

A friend recommended the

zorg · « **Reply #1 on:** August 16, 2005, 11:18:27 pm »

Quote from: johnvv on August 16, 2005, 07:50:52 pm

I was going to use them for my Joust, but found some errors in the electronic versions of the art, so am going with tracing of the original art instead.

can you elaborate a bit please

johnvv · « **Reply #2 on:** August 17, 2005, 01:12:30 am »

Regarding the orginal Joust artwork on my cab vs. the vector images at localarcade.com, I found a number of differences, most fairly minor. The shapes of a number of objects in the original art were different than those in the vector files - varying up to 3/4" in some cases. As an example of a larger difference, the eye of the ostrich mount in my original artwork is at a completely different angle than than of the vector art.

Overall, the vector art is very close to the original, matching in many instances, but different enough for my purposes of as close to a 100% restore as possible, that I opted for the the hand stencil. That is not a good economic and time decision, as the vector art would be much faster and cheaper to use than hand tracings of the original.

I have not idea why the differences exist. I am guessing that they may have been some variation in the stencils used for the original Joust art over the life of its production.

zorg · « **Reply #3 on:** August 17, 2005, 10:10:33 pm »

OK thank's for pointing this.

as you say I guess those "small" differences are comming from the variation over time in the stencils used to produce the side-art, also maybe the use and positionement of the stencils may sligthly change the result.

I was surprised when you mentioned some differences as the original sources of the file hosted in AAL was available on spies.com. and it's really a great quality piece of art.

johnvv · « **Reply #4 on:** August 26, 2005, 12:32:29 am »

In case anyone is interested, I did get a quotation from www.stencilsonline.com to cut the Joust vector art at localarcade.com.

For the a three layer stencil (3 color in Joust art) the price was $88.50. They would cut a duplicate set for an additional $32.50. Not bad pricing in my opinion. I would expect their work to be excellent, given the equipment they are using. The stencil would be cut on 10 mil reusable mylar, so they could be easily cleaned and re-used or just re-sold. Probably a better solution than some of the paper stencils around.

Also, because the Joust art is over 52" high, they have to cut each stencil in two, so the cost is probably a bit higher as a result.

Definitely worth checking out if you are going to be using any vector art.

mahuti · « **Reply #5 on:** September 21, 2005, 01:02:10 pm »

Pretty cool. If they're not too expensive, I may finally complete my Defender side art. Hand cutting stencils for the front was quite tedious, and I wasn't looking forward to doing the sides in that manner. I'll report back with their quote cost.

allroy1975 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 21, 2005, 02:54:30 pm »

Quote from: johnvv on August 26, 2005, 12:32:29 am

For the a three layer stencil (3 color in Joust art) the price was $88.50. They would cut a duplicate set for an additional $32.50. Not bad pricing in my opinion. I would expect their work to be excellent, given the equipment they are using. The stencil would be cut on 10 mil reusable mylar, so they could be easily cleaned and re-used or just re-sold. Probably a better solution than some of the paper stencils around.

am I reading this right? you could order one for 88.50 then a 2nd for 32.50 that you could sell on ebay to help recoup your $$?

Allroy

Rook3 · « **Reply #7 on:** September 21, 2005, 05:45:35 pm »

I'd do this for my Williams Stargate cabinet, but even the art library doesn't have completely accurate Stargate art.

Maybe that's another project in my future, just taking some HQ photos of my stripped cab, and vectorizing them. Should I curse the project? "How hard could it be?"

Russ

johnvv · « **Reply #8 on:** September 22, 2005, 12:32:41 am »

allroy1975:

Yes, you are reading this right. The quotation they gave me for the Joust was $88.50 for the first set (which, in my case, is actually six sheets - two each color. Each color is split into two sheets due to the size of the graphic). An additional complete set was $32.50. I'm pretty sure the difference in cost is simply their labor in reviewing the art files and setting up the robot to cut the stencil. Additional copies of the same thing probably cost them virtually nothing beyond materials. I don't recall the cost of shipping, but is was probably $15-$20 due the size of the tube - check their site.

I suppose you could re-sell them, but that may get into issue with the 'right to use' from localarcade. Someone else would know more about that topic than would I.

mahuti · « **Reply #9 on:** September 22, 2005, 12:47:24 am »

localarcade has no rights.

Ravage · « **Reply #10 on:** September 22, 2005, 04:44:28 am »

I origianlly did the vectoring of the Joust art thats out on the net (if its the version I'm thinking of).
It was actually scanned from a NOS sideart sticker rather than an original cab. I have updated the files here at home as I too want to get stencils made for joust and stargate, I'll dig'em out and upload them to localarcade in a bit
Cheers
Rav

allroy1975 · « **Reply #11 on:** September 22, 2005, 12:25:22 pm »

yeah it seems like it might get more into who owns the original copyright for the art.

Like...I might just get some Ms. Pac Man stencils printed....I bet someone would get pissed if I started selling those on ebay for $50 a pop. I don't really understand how they'll know if they stencils I mad or if they're bought from a licensed distributor and then I didn't need them anymore and sold them?

that's just my crooked way of thinking.

Allroy

Wade · « **Reply #12 on:** September 22, 2005, 01:31:45 pm »

This is a lot cheaper than any option I've seen before. We should really look into this more. I could only get the Taito sideart stencil (1 color) for about $90. This sounds far cheaper. This would be great for the popular Williams games, and possibly even Pac and MsPac.

Wade

Rook3 · « **Reply #13 on:** September 22, 2005, 08:38:05 pm »

If you bought a single set for your own use, then sold them off after you were done, I don't see the harm.

Now, if you're selling off boatloads of them at $50 a pop, I can see why there might be issues with that.

Russ

mahuti · « **Reply #14 on:** September 22, 2005, 08:55:59 pm »

They gave me a quote of about $78 for defender side stencils. That's pretty dang cheap.

Anybody want to go in on a set or 2?

allroy1975 · « **Reply #15 on:** September 23, 2005, 10:24:35 am »

Quote from: Rook3 on September 22, 2005, 08:38:05 pm

If you bought a single set for your own use, then sold them off after you were done, I don't see the harm.

Now, if you're selling off boatloads of them at $50 a pop, I can see why there might be issues with that.

Russ

Gotta sell boatloads to pay for mine.

Rook3 · « **Reply #16 on:** September 23, 2005, 11:19:33 am »

Quote

I have updated the files here at home as I too want to get stencils made for joust and stargate, I'll dig'em out and upload them to localarcade in a bit
Cheers

Ravage, did you say you had the accurate Stargate art done already?

Russ

Crazy Cooter · « **Reply #17 on:** September 23, 2005, 12:13:01 pm »

Quote from: Wade on September 22, 2005, 01:31:45 pm

This is a lot cheaper than any option I've seen before.

mahuti · « **Reply #18 on:** September 23, 2005, 12:35:30 pm »

Select "get a quote" from their website.

clanggedin · « **Reply #19 on:** September 23, 2005, 02:26:56 pm »

Mahuti,

I'm interested in a set of Defender stencils. I'll go in with you for a set.

prOk · « **Reply #20 on:** September 23, 2005, 07:06:28 pm »

you guys do realize these will be plotter cut vinyl and one time use only right??

Rook3 · « **Reply #21 on:** September 24, 2005, 04:47:58 pm »

I believe they're laser cut mylar, and reuseable.

In fact...

Quote

What type of material are the stencils cut on?

Most of our materials for custom stencils are polyester film (Mylar). We have laser cut many different materials to find the perfect product and we find that the polyester film works the best!

Why Polyester (Mylar)?

The three things you want to consider when choosing a stencil material are:
How strong is it?
How easily can it be cleaned?
Will it achieve crisp stenciling results?
Polyester is quite strong. It has the ability to be rolled very tightly and it will always bounce back to its flat shape. If you take a square sheet of polyester, even the thinnest 5 mil, you will not be able to tear it using your hands.

The secret to a long stencil life is the ability to clean paint or ink off your stencil. Polyester is one of the very few plastic materials that is solvent proof. You can clean your stencil with paint remover, acetone (fingernail polish remover), turpentine/mineral spirits, or anything recommended to clean paint, and you won't damage the stencil material in any way.

All material in the polyester family is flexible. This is very important when you are stenciling because it can conform to curved surfaces as well as the subtle variations on flat services. This will provide a more crisp and professional look than you can achieve using a rigid stencil material.

How long will a stencil last?

Many variables go into answering this question. The most important factor is how you take care of your stencil. The best way to ensure a long stencil life is to clean the paint off your stencil after you are finished. There is no need to clean the stencil so it looks new, you just need to keep paint from building up around the edges. Many of our customers have successfully used a single stencil for hundreds of applications.

Russ

tristan · « **Reply #22 on:** September 24, 2005, 08:32:05 pm »

I'd probably go in for a Defender set as well.

Flinkly · « **Reply #23 on:** September 26, 2005, 11:03:29 pm »

dang, too bad i'm making a larger than normal neo geo cab, otherwise i might be able to sucker someone into splitting the charge with me. mine wouldn't cost too much either.

how would you guys put the paint on? for stenciling, spray seems to be the best, but i wouldn't want to use a can...could you roll or brush it on? would the lines really be that crisp? i've taped stuff off before and never been able to get a great line...they weren't horrible, but it had alot of little bleed outs.

johnvv · « **Reply #24 on:** September 27, 2005, 12:49:27 am »

Flinkly:

I think most folks that are going to all this effor to stencil are using professional spray guns - typcially HVLP. I think some folks own them while others rent.

The key to applying spray is practice. Make some simple cutouts on mylar and try some light spraying. Eventually, you'll get good edges and a smooth application to the base. Several light coats are a good strategy. There is a good description of how to stencil on rgvac.com (under Restoration).

prOk:

What are you talking about? As noted above, the service clearly describes the materials you can use, their re-usability, etc.

mahuti · « **Reply #25 on:** September 27, 2005, 09:02:00 am »

When I did the front of my Defender with my (hand cut) stencils, I just used spray cans and it turned out great.

You can see a picture here

The thing that helped me was using a pistol grip add-on for the cans, and applying many extremely light dustings of paint for a very smooth & opaque finish. At first it was maddening... applying such a quick light dusting of paint. I got some alkyd based enamel paint that could be painted over again about every 20 minutes, so after the first day, I could tell that it was going to look really great.

Anyway... If there's one guy around here that knows how to stencil, it's a bunch of pr0k's stuff up at rgvac... that's his stencilling tutorial. He may have it wrong on what they're using, but he know's about the rest of this stuff.

mahuti · « **Reply #26 on:** September 27, 2005, 09:11:06 am »

Oh, and anyone that want's a set of the defender stencils... It's probably prudent for me to order full sets, rather than to use a set and then play pass the trash. They can get damaged easily regardless of what the docs say. Anyway, as long as they're better than my hand cut stencils, I'll be a happy camper.

1. Contact me before 9-30-05 if you want a set. With 3 orders they're currently going to be about $50 / set. For each additional set, it will reduce the price a bit... 5 orders would bring the price to about $42. If they are reusable (as they claim) you can always sell the stencil on eBay after you're done.

2. I can take payment by paypal, I'll let you know the price after I get the final tally. I'm sure it will take a few weeks for them to get the art turned around and sent to me, so we'll have some time.

Flinkly · « **Reply #27 on:** September 28, 2005, 01:48:24 pm »

yeah, i've got a sprayer, but not for the kind of paint i was going to use. i guess mahuti's got the right idea with cheap and simple, although tedious. sounds good enought to me.

what about adhesion? do you spray the back with something and stick it in place? i guess i want to figure all this out before i get any deeper.

mahuti · « **Reply #28 on:** September 28, 2005, 01:54:40 pm »

From their faq;

Step 1: Hold your stencil in place. Many people use masking tape or painters tape to hold the stencil in place. You may also wish to consider using a repositionable stencil adhesive. This is a light adhesive spray that you can apply to the back of your stencil. The adhesive will hold the entire back of the stencil to your surface instead of only the areas that are taped. The adhesive allows you to achieve outstanding results for creating a crisp stencil job. The adhesive will gradually wear off your stencil as you use it and, at this point, you need to spray the back of the stencil with adhesive again. The adhesive will not leave any residue or damage your stenciling surface. You can remove the adhesive with acetone or any product that removes adhesive. It is available at almost every craft supply or art supply store.

Flinkly · « **Reply #29 on:** September 28, 2005, 04:35:22 pm »

ok, ok, so i'm horrible at reading the information provided...i guess i'll get off my butt and read for any other questions i have.

this does seem like an incredible service though, and it sounds like we might have some user opinions within the next month.

prOk · « **Reply #30 on:** September 28, 2005, 08:54:51 pm »

My bad, I misread what they said.. it seems they're using some kind of mylar which does present it's own set of difficulties, but can work. Problem is painting the cabinet while standing up will be hard so you won't be able to get the ideal straight ahead angle with the spray can.. Mylar is pretty heavy stuff when it gets that big, so even the photo mount trick might not work to hold it in place

I'm in the process of starting up a vinyl stencil cutting setup of my own, hopefully i'll be able to offer one time use adhesive stencils for a pretty darned good price..

/b

http://www.rgvac.com

mahuti · « **Reply #31 on:** September 28, 2005, 09:40:52 pm »

All I know... either one has to be better than my hand cut frisket stencils. They worked really well, and they were really easy to remove when I was done... but damn they were a pain in the but to hand cut.

Rook3 · « **Reply #32 on:** September 29, 2005, 12:23:08 am »

Hand cutting stencils SUCKS!

Inman · « **Reply #33 on:** October 04, 2005, 09:12:11 pm »

Hello! Inman here - I've been working on a Defender cabinet with the help of SpyStyle and decided to order stencils from the stencilsonline stenciling service. They were quick to respond with my proofs & my order shipped quickly. In fact, I received it today & promptly checked out sizing etc. once they arrived.

The material looks very solid and I'm sure it will work fine but I'm not sure what paint would work best. Talking it over with others, we're thinking auto spray is pretty darned tough and would do the job against a black latex background. ...then go with a clear epoxy or auto paint finish for protection.

Anyone ever used stencils over black latex like this? I suppose this could be a whole new topic, but it is directly relevant to the main post. Any input would be appreciated.

prOk · « **Reply #34 on:** October 04, 2005, 10:11:57 pm »

got any pictures of the stencils??

mahuti · « **Reply #35 on:** October 05, 2005, 12:13:16 am »

I would not suggest using latex for this.

Use enamel. Go to your local knowlegeable paint store and tell them what you are doing, and they will suggest a good paint for you.

I typically use alkyd based enamel paint with an enamel primer. Use enamel for the colors as well. If you already painted your cabinet with latex... well...

Anyway, I've used stencils over ENAMEL before. You can see the results in the links in my sig.

Inman · « **Reply #36 on:** October 05, 2005, 12:07:49 pm »

I'll try to post some pictures of the stencils when I get a chance. I hope to actually apply them this weekend so I'll post pictures of the finished product too (if I find the time).

mahuti - cabinet is already painted with black latex

, but I appreciate your tips. I may use enamel on my next cabinet. ....will be off to the local paint shop to get some recommendations. Checked out the Defender pics on your site. Nice! Can't wait to get mine completed.

So far so good with stencilsonline.com, but the real test will be when the artwork is applied.

Inman · « **Reply #37 on:** October 06, 2005, 09:43:57 pm »

I didn't get a chance to take pictures of the actual stencils, but I did put together a nice little slideshow of my Defender Cabinet progress to date & added Voice Over.

Inman · « **Reply #38 on:** October 08, 2005, 07:40:15 pm »

I applied the stencil side art to my cabinet today.

Wade · « **Reply #39 on:** October 12, 2005, 11:07:19 am »

The base color I used on my Moon Patrol was a flat latex paint I got mixed at Lowe's. The two colors I stencilled were spray cans. I didn't really have any problems related to the paints (I did have problems getting a nice clear coat, but that had nothing to do with the paints underneat). In fact, the clear I eventually used was Polycrylic, which is also a water based paint. So I have a weird mix of paint types on that cabinet.

It seemed to work just fine though.

Wade


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