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Routed CP components. Need feedback!
wintermute:
Hmm, I'm in the beginning stages of building a CP, and I was planing on bottom mountng (already have T-nuts, etc) but I was originally thinking of putting the dust washers on top (didn't know they could go anywhere else). In the williams bottom mount, is the dust washer between the CP overlay and the CP? Does it slide around in that area without any trouble? It seems like the CPO could sag into the space outside the washer, or the washer could get held up in there if the plexi squeezed too much on it. I'd actually prefer to do it this way because my joystick surrounds have some graphics that I'd like to see more of (dust washer covers a lot). Do you think I'll have good luck trying this?
thanks,
wm
NoOne=NBA=:
The way Oscar did it, the overlay sticks to the bare wood in the front, but to a piece of plexi on the top where the sticks/buttons are.
He routed into the top of the wood CP, to accomodate the piece of plexi that gave the overlay a smooth surface to stick to, while allowing the dustwashers to slide without sticking.
I built my wood CP in three layers.
The bottom most layer is 3/4", and has 3/8" routed from the bottom to allow the sticks to sit into it a bit.
The piece over that is 1/4", and has the dustwasher rings routed into the top.
With those two pieces glued up, I drilled, and counter-bored the holes for the T-nuts.
With the T-nuts/dustwashers in place, I glued the top layer of 1/4" on, to cover the routing on the middle piece.
That way I didn't have to worry about getting an exact routing on the top for everything to sit smooth.
I could have done the entire panel on the single 3/4", with a 1/4" cover, but wanted the extra 1/4" to cover the bottom part of the monitor front glass.
My routing on the bottom for the stick is rough because I did it freehand.
It doesn't show at all when the cabinet is assembled though, so I wasn't concerned with having a perfect job on it.
nickbuol:
I routed the bottom and did the t-nut thing.
NoOne=NBA=:
--- Quote from: nickbuol on August 12, 2005, 04:44:29 pm ---Like RaggedEdge mentions though, you will lose some joystick height vs. top mounting
--- End quote ---
If you plan to have hidden hardware, you're really not losing much by bottom mounting.
My joysticks are deeper than I needed them to be at 3/4" below the top of the CP.
I could easily have made them 1/2" below the top.
I'm planning to get a set of RandyT's balltops, which will gain me back 1/2" vs. the stock handles.
Best case scenario on a top mount, you are going to be 1/4" below the top because you have to have something there to cover the bolt heads.
Going with exposed hardware will let you go 1/4" on a bottom mount, and 1/16" on the top mount because you still need something to cover the top of the joystick base, so that the overlay doesn't sink into it.
Top mounts are definitely the harder of the two methods to get to look good also.
AceTKK:
I've been facing this exact dilemna. Thanks for all the useful tips guys! I think I'm going to go with the bottom mount / t-nut solution for the reasons listed above. For anybody who's considering this method, www.partsexpress.com sells t-nuts that are designed for use in MDF construction (speaker boxes). I'm going to try those out.
-Ace-
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