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Ultimate control panel set?

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fl0yd:
For the fighter panel, I'd go with 2 49-ways with a rotary adapter.  That combo can play damn near anything that doesn't require a trigger grip or button top.

Avery:

--- Quote from: NoOne=NBA= on May 17, 2005, 08:49:31 pm ---It's all in how you implement it.

I'd put my modules up against pretty much any factory driving CP.

I can lift the front of my REALLY heavy cab with them...but I DON'T.

--- End quote ---

Do you have a web page for your cab out there?  (If you do I've probably seen it and just not matching a name to a machine.)  If you don't, could you post some pictures?  I'm interested in seeing what others have done.

Kremmit:
Oughtta have a look at this, as well:
http://www.beersmith.com/mame/

armax:

--- Quote from: NoOne=NBA= on May 17, 2005, 08:49:31 pm ---
--- Quote from: armax on May 17, 2005, 07:37:22 pm ---I'm eager to hear from modular users on the stability of the panels in relation to steering and positional guns.

--- End quote ---

It's all in how you implement it.

I'd put my modules up against pretty much any factory driving CP.
Mine have cross-dowel nuts in 1x2 poplar that is glued/lagged to the 3/4" plywood that makes up my cabinet.
The tops are all 1x poplar as well.
I can lift the front of my REALLY heavy cab with them...but I DON'T.

Given that most of the original cabinets were made of pressboard, I'm guessing that mine will withstand alot more force.
I would point out that it doesn't get subjected to anything like that, though.
I don't mind yanking and cranking, that is done in the heat of a game, but don't EVER get mad and take it out on my controls.


As far as the functionally playing games goes, I like the original controls for most games.
What works nice for one game doesn't necessarily work nice for another.
For "most" 4-ways I prefer Wicos, but there are specific games where they just don't perform as well.
Alot of platform games require fast moves in opposite directions.
The Wicos, with their long throws, don't perform as well as other sticks on those games.

--- End quote ---

Just wondering if you have pics of your setup.  I don't think I've seen a modular setup that strong before...

NoOne=NBA=:


That's a pic while I was still in the design phase.
I was using insert nuts at that point, but have since replaced them with cross-dowel nuts.

I'm using the same screws from the top, but the cross-dowel nuts actually sit lower in the bracing pieces, and are alot stronger than insert nuts when you pull vertically on them.
The 1x4's that the CP modules bolt to are glued and screwed into the main part of the cabinet.



If you grab the front lip on the modules, you can actually pick up the front of the cabinet by them.
They overhang the NoOne decal by about an inch, or so.

I am actually working on a design for a "hidden hardware" method at the moment because I'm finally getting back to the artwork stage.
I just finished my new monitor bezel, after rotating my monitor to vertical only.
My current plan is to use push pins going in from the front, just above the NoOne part of the decal, and put a small piece off each of the modules, so that the pins will hold them in place.

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