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delta88:
GroovyGameGear.Com Link


I see that there is a solder version and a no solder version.....I checked the site and no cable/connector fo the no solder version.. aparently it looks like the solder version is less of a hassle...cut wire prefered length and solder or find a ?ide cable? cut it , seperate each wire, strip them back and then attach that small little wire to a larger wire or block to then apply a connector to to run to a switch...

If this is inacurrate lemme know. Id love to see some pictures of how the no solder verion has been put to use in a cab.

thx
 d88

tep0583:
I'm pretty sure that is for an IDE cable. At least that's what Randy was saying it would be when the eco II first came out.

To me, it's completely worth the extra $3.00. I soldered my Eco I myself and it wasn't THAT bad, but it was enough to convince me that the IDE version would be easier.

SirPeale:
Solder version less of a hassle?  With the no solder version all you do is insert a wire, and tighten a screw.

RandyT:

--- Quote from: Peale on April 17, 2005, 06:44:24 pm ---Solder version less of a hassle?  With the no solder version all you do is insert a wire, and tighten a screw.

--- End quote ---

That would be the Max.  I think he's asking about the "No-Solder Eco", which is the 40=pin header. ;)

RandyT

markrvp:
I thought stripping an IDE cable would be really hard until I tried one the other day.  IT IS EASY! You can strip the end with a utility knife, and the wires peel apart to give you 40 separate wires going to the IDE connector.   As long as the IDE cable wires are long enough to reach your controls, you don't need to use a block.

Also, instead of trying to crimp quick disconnects onto the small wires, use a small solder joint.  This is actually very fast (I wouldn't have thought so) and if you were willing to solder 40 wires to a PCB so close together, then 40 solder joints connecting easily separatable wires to disconnects should be a snap for you.

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